Forest Find 1961 Mouse Grey 11-Window Standard

[Longmont1302]

Thanks, velvetgreen,
Clara's list has been added to my to-do list, and the engine seal has been added to my wishlist.
Scott

[Longmont1302]

My rear passenger wheel won't spin. I have two questions.

1. When trying to search for the best place for jacks and jack stands, I came up with a lot of terms I’m not certain I’m identifying correctly. Can anyone point me to a chart that clearly labels the underside of the bus (spring plate, torsion cover, torsion tubes, torsion housings, etc.)? For the record, I think I jacked up the cradle (with a 2X4 underneath) and put a jack stand under the torsion tube, but I’m guessing.

2. Is my next step to assume I have a stuck drum (and follow threads on that)? Isn’t there an adjuster I can try loosening first? I’m not certain I'm finding that. Through the top lug hole I *think* I can see some teeth:

Is it possible that the wheel stuck in just the right place that I could stick a screwdriver in there and try to move that gear this way or that? If so, do I simply guess which way loosens?

Scott

[western auto]

just get a drum puller and yard that thing off of there ....save yourself the anguish

[cdennisg]

Yes, your 2x4 is under the cradle and your jackstand is under the torsion tube. Well done.

Yes, you are seeing the adjusting star through that lug bolt hole. But if you try to pry on it it will likely not turn and you will booger up the bolt hole threads and maybe break teeth off the star. There is a hole in the drum just for adjusting the brakes, but if you can't turn the drum, it is of no use.


See the hole that is not like the others? that is the adjuster hole. Your drum may have different markings than this one.

As previously mentioned, you will probably need a big drum puller or some such to get that thing off. Many threads on here about the process. Sometimes you need to go full caveman to make it happen.

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[cdennisg]

Good thread on drum pullers... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=390674&highlight=brake+drum
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[Longmont1302]

Just as I was starting to think I should buy this puller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012P0QV5K
...my neighbor Bill came over and helped me get my rear passenger drum off without a puller:

Hopefully I don't get into trouble with any governmental agencies for having upset spider habitat.
Now that the drum spins, I've put the wheel back on and plan to roll the bus out of the garage on Saturday for the proper hose down it never got on the way in.
At least for now, my wife and kids can no longer tease me by singing "the wheels on the bus go round and round" in a sarcastic way.

[Abscate]

Save those precious German axle nuts for the hens teeth that they are....
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.ssS!

[Longmont1302]

[Longmont1302]

The front floor of our bus is in tough shape:

I understand that before we do any serious metal work we should get it up on jack stands and level. Do I need to do that before I simply remove the front floor? (Various kinds of clean up would be much easier if I could still roll the bus out of the garage.) Any suggestions for a cheap cold chisel to remove rivets or a good source for wire brushes to use in the cordless drill for rust removal?

Finally, if my current goal is simply to see the bus move under its own power, how crazy is it to think of putting a front floor in without replacing the doglegs at the same time?

[khalimadeath]

You will need at least a new front floor, then possibly the lower A pillar for both sides. Post more pictures.
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1970 Bus Westfalia
1964 Kombi

[Burlyhammer]

Looks like the front floor is pretty much out. There is no reason not to keep the bus as a roller while you remove what is left. You can use a grinder to remove the remainder of the floor. Go easy, and try to grind the spot welds with out going through the metal the floor attaches to. I usually get one end started, pry up the piece I am removing with a screw driver to find the next weld, grind it out, and work my way around. If your dog legs and Pillars are not completely toasted, you may be able to repair them. Only cut out the rusted areas. Post some more photos of the A Pillars and inside the dog legs. They look repairable to me.
Good luck!

[Longmont1302]

I’ve dropped the ball on updating this thread, but I have made glacial progress this summer, including buying my first welder, a Hobart 130. I'm using .30 wire and gas with it, and have been getting some practice in with it. I’ve removed the front bumper, and am tempted to get sidetracked trying to straighten it (and especially the overriders) out as well as drill out and tap the one bolt that broke as I was taking it off.
While I often get side-tracked, my current focus is to make some progress toward replacing the front floors.

I’ve started hacking some of the floor out, going from this:

to this:

My next step should be to find and begin removing the spot welds at the front of floor. Today, however, I was trying to get the steering wheel off. The horn button and nut came off without too much of a fuss (although I did have to resort to using an impact wrench on the nut), and I got the turn indicator and cancel ring off, but steering wheel is proving tough. I cut a large washer as suggested in this thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=310527
And bought this 8” three-jaw puller puller with my 20% coupon at HB: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-three-jaw-gear-puller-69224.html
Here’s what it looks like…

I've cranked it so tight a few times I'm sure something will explode, but so far no go. As I tighten it down (and pause to hammer on the top of it) the main bolt in the puller becomes more vertical and no longer parallel to the steering tube.

My question is this: is that okay? Should I be bold and keep cranking and hammering on this thing?

[cdennisg]

Point #1, make sure to keep fingers clear of the area around that wheel should it pop off suddenly and smack things. Keeping the steering nut in place is smart. The wheel will likely pop off with a bang when it does, and it can be startling.

Did you add a quality penetrating oil to the wheel/shaft interface?

A little heat would not hurt, either. No need for a torch, but a heat gun focused on heating the wheel hub (try not to heat the steering shaft if possible) will help it expand and let loose of the shaft.

Careful with cranking that puller down hard if it is not staying centered. With enough angle it could slip off and damage you or other things.
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[Longmont1302]

Hi cdennisg,
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion of where to place heat. I am spraying penetrant all around the nut hoping it seeps to where it needs to seep.

[PeteSC]

[Longmont1302]

[sgellis]

Are you crushing the cancel ring? I think you can remove the screws with the wheel in place but never tried
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[Longmont1302]

Good guess, but I did get the cancel ring off, thanks. When I got home and took the puller off tonight, the washer WAS bent. Tonight I’ll cut two new ones and use them together.

[cdennisg]

[Z]

Wow...yeah, good catch.

Also...what penetrating oil are you using? If it's not a 'real' one like Kroil, PB blaster, etc., i'd def get one of those.

I'm currently using a 40 year old can of 'Knock Er Loose' left in my garage by the previous owner and it is like magic.