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brother Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2016 Posts: 4 Location: around
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 7:56 am Post subject: Knocking from rear end |
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A knocking sound has started from what sounds like the back end over the past day. Below I'll list the details:
-Usually starts around 15 MPH
-Doesn't seem to be related to the engine
-Frequency is congruent with speed (faster speed = faster knock, vice versa)
-Intensity/loudness seems to be random, sometimes it's loud then I'll slow to a stop and start moving again and it'll be nonexistent or real quiet for a minute to a few minutes, then it'll show up again.
-When I accelerate the knock seems to mellow out, I don't know if it's just the sound of my engine drowning it out, but it seems to be mellower.
-Generally, the knock has gotten a little louder than it was sounding last night.
Here's the kicker. I'm far from either option of home. One is in the bay area, California. The other is in west Michigan. I was heading east as I need to head east towards Michigan moreso than towards California. Currently I am semi-stranded in Santa Fe, New Mexico. My vanagon runs and moves, but I am afraid of getting stranded in a more remote place. I've worked on my vanagon a decent, but my still regard my mechanical knowledge as novice to intermediate at best, but this issue is new to me and I'm having a hard time diagnosing the issue.
Also I'm stressed out
Any help is greatly appreciated. |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32634 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Steve M. Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2013 Posts: 6833 Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl.
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:45 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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Don't just look - put a hand on each axle and try to move it in all directions.
Side to side between gearbox and axles there should be some normal sliding movement to compensate for the suspension up and down movement.
Front to back placing a hand closest to each CV joint you probably will not see much movement if any as the balls will hold it fairly well even if starting to go bad. What your really looking for is the bolts holding the CV joint in place. If there loose it will be fairly obvious!
If you can identify which axle it is and it is a cv joint you can replace the cv joint or maybe a faster way would be to buy a new axle with the cv joints installed.
Here is one that will get you moving for 50 bucks from parts geek.
I have no clue as to how good it is, but should last long enough to get you home if this is the worst case scenario. Trouble is it is only for a manual transmission. If you have an automatic you'll have to do some searching online.
Don't stress too much-it is fixable. Though you will need a torque wrench to tighten the cv bolts properly and then check and re-torque them again in a 100 miles.
https://www.partsgeek.com/6rw8b6q-volkswagen-vanag...e+Assembly _________________ This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them. |
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84Cabby82Westy Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004 Posts: 49 Location: Missoula, MT
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:53 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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Definitely check the bolts - hopefully that's all it is. I had exactly the same problem last summer along the coast in northern California.
Mine started similar to what you describe and then got progressively louder to the point that it sounded like someone was beating on the back with a hammer. Had the same thing happen in town about 8 years ago. I found a shop open late in a very small town that had no experience with vans and I suggested that they check the bolts. It was fixed in 10 minutes and they didn't charge me because they didn't think they did anything. 2K miles later and everything is fine. |
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alaskadan Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2013 Posts: 1858 Location: anchor pt. alaska
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:24 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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When checking for loose bolts or bad cv park it in neutral with wheels blocked so there is load or bind on the axle. |
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9.5isCanadian Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2017 Posts: 465 Location: In your blind spot.
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:32 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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alaskadan wrote: |
When checking for loose bolts or bad cv park it in neutral with wheels blocked so there is no load or bind on the axle. |
Quoted to fix missing word.
5 marks for the assist.
_________________ 9 1/2 - missing a few pieces.
1987 Getaway Hightop
1980 Sunroof Vanagon
2018 BMW R Nine T
2012 Golf tdi |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32634 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15144 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:55 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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fast foreign auto repair in Santa Fe has seen Vanagons before.
this should be an easy assessment and repair for them.
they are closed today (sunday)
5453, 2786 Agua Fria St, Santa Fe, NM 87507
www.mechanicsantafe.com (505) 471-0326
https://goo.gl/maps/7rBtuBde8gN2 _________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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brother Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2016 Posts: 4 Location: around
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:56 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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thank you all for the quick responses. before checking back here i crawled under and spotted my rear right joint/boot by the wheel is wet so that looks like the problem spot. i just got to a friend’s place and will do some further inspection after showering and gettin settled. thanks again! |
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15144 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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as an FYI, any brake shop who services axles can/should be able to service a vanagon rear axle. it's nothing special. in fact it's fairly easy. _________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4098 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 3:45 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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Definitely keep the old axle if replacing with cheap FLAPS part.
Remember to label the axle for transaxle side and wheel side. This is so the axle goes back in with the same torque twist direction.
Good luck! _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine. |
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fxr Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2014 Posts: 2325 Location: Bay area CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
Definitely keep the old axle if replacing with cheap FLAPS part.
Remember to label the axle for transaxle side and wheel side. This is so the axle goes back in with the same torque twist direction.
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Only if swapped to the other side of the van, surely? Swapping trans-axle to wheel on the same side doesn't change the thrust direction inside the CV. _________________ Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300 |
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brother Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2016 Posts: 4 Location: around
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:48 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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alright so when i got under and moved the axle side to side between the gearbox and the wheels there was a strong knock as it hit the wheel end. sounds just like the knock i'm experiencing on the road. i'm assuming that means it's a bad joint, hoping it's not something bigger than that. the one on the back left is way more heavy sounding than the one on the right but they both are knocking. |
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dhaavers Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2010 Posts: 7757 Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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Possible the CV axle is hitting the stub axle. Loud & annoying but not particularly worrisome. Pulling each boot
towards the CV at each end will tend to center the axle & help prevent the clunk...try it & report back...
- Dave _________________ 86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10252 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:55 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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What year and model Vanagon are we discussing here, and is it automatic or manual?
It sounds like you just need the rear axles removed, lubricated with new boots and re-installed. Most places will prefer to replace the whole axle as a unit preassembled as the cost is about the same to do that. Unbolt and replace with all new is comparable to the large amount of shop time to take your old one and properly clean and regrease.
I'm asking about the details because sure as heck we'll find out you have a diesel conversion, or an automatic, or that you have a 6" lift and huge tires, etc. So give us some details on the car.
While I'm asking questions, I grew up in W. Michigan - Holland, Grand Haven, Saugatuck, Berrien Springs, etc. Where is home in W. Michigan? _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 7:00 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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Pumping additional grease into the joints by using a long grease needle under the small ends of the boots can often quiet them up. Preferably the needle will be long enough to get grease in between the bearings. |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4098 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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fxr wrote: |
MsTaboo wrote: |
Definitely keep the old axle if replacing with cheap FLAPS part.
Remember to label the axle for transaxle side and wheel side. This is so the axle goes back in with the same torque twist direction.
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Only if swapped to the other side of the van, surely? Swapping trans-axle to wheel on the same side doesn't change the thrust direction inside the CV. |
The idea is to keep the torque direction the same on the axle. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
Defend democracy, support Ukraine. |
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brother Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2016 Posts: 4 Location: around
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:34 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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idahodoug, it’s a manual 2wd 1985 waterbox 1.9 westy camper, stock wheels. also, i work at the art school in the woods in saugatuck/douglas late spring thru late summer/fall |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:50 pm Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
fxr wrote: |
MsTaboo wrote: |
Definitely keep the old axle if replacing with cheap FLAPS part.
Remember to label the axle for transaxle side and wheel side. This is so the axle goes back in with the same torque twist direction.
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Only if swapped to the other side of the van, surely? Swapping trans-axle to wheel on the same side doesn't change the thrust direction inside the CV. |
The idea is to keep the torque direction the same on the axle. |
How often does a bus axle fail for this reason? Don't think I have ever heard of an instance. Guess you should never downshift on a hill either if this particular failure is a concern to you. |
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t3 kopf Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2012 Posts: 1115 Location: over by 'der
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Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 5:14 am Post subject: Re: Knocking from rear end |
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The "clunk, clunk clunk" of the cv joint hitting the stub axle flange on the wheel side is usually a result of the fact that the cv joint has binded and isn't flexing and keeping "constant velocity" as is its name sake. As the axle rotates, the end of the axle strikes the flange every few rotations as a result. Better that its happening on the wheel side here instead of at the transmission side, because when this happens on the transmission side, it puts a hole in the flange seal and causes a leak. Anyway, don't try to drive it out of town very far because if allowed to continue, eventually the inner cage if the CV joint will break, and the van will not be able to move under its own power. The sensible thing to do in your situation is to remove BOTH axles, disassemble, clean, regrease, reassemble, and install the axles on the opposite side of the transmission from their original location. * edit, the prior sentence applies ONLY to manual vans, as automatic transmission vans have 2 different length axles.* This puts the ball bearings on a new track and restarts the wear cycle all over again like new. From your post, I can tell you may not be up to that task quite yet, so the best course of action would be to purchase a new cv joint shaft assy and have it installed at a shop in town to get you on your way. Keep your old shaft as was said previously. Rebuilding it is a great task to learn to accomplish because you will have this same problem again someday if you continue to drive a vanagon. _________________ '90 Carat w/ '95 phase 1 EJ22 OBD2 conversion
Last edited by t3 kopf on Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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