'70 Riviera: The Continuing (Mis)Adventures

[Tram]

No, the lock screw is frozen where it is. We can't secure the adjusting screw which turns freely and easily.

Right. A drop of super glue where the adjusting screw and the collar it screws in/ out of meet should hold it. You might need to remove the body mounted regulator from the body and hold it with the screw and collar facing up to get it right.

A little acetone or nail polish remover will soften the glue if you need to adjust it again. Just a drop.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[D/A/N]

[Tram]

[Xevin]

If you like packing a bike. The Fiamma will serve you well. There are cheaper options. But this is a good quality tool that works and is convenient. Cheaper bike rack options available. Knipex tools are expensive but work like they should. Although many Harbor Freight tools can get you by. For fuck sake treat yourself to bike rack you don’t need to dick with.

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Keep on Busin'

[D/A/N]

[neena]

More preparation for our summer road trip happened today. After many many many hours of rebuilding jalousie windows over more than 3 months, we finally installed them. Rebuilding was a royal pain - so tedious! - but removal of our leaky sliders and installation of the new windows was a breeze!

The only thing to add is that even though most info says to use #4 screws at 1/2" length, those screws just danced around in our frame. This thread

http://www.type2.com/library/exterior/jalous.htm

suggests that you should use #6 screws only if your channels are "buggered". However, we tried using #4's even in unused parts of the channel on both windows and they didn't bite at all. #6 and even #8 work perfectly and we could see the window pull towards the body ever so slightly as we tightened down the screws.

We're feeling quite proud of how it looks! Next on the list is redoing the screens. Here are some pics of the process, though none of the window rebuild because that was unexciting and has been well documented by others!

We thought this wavy edge might give us trouble, but it was actually easy to get enough screws to grab the window (plus, I treated the metal with Ospho and added some butyl tape to bad gaps):

The finished product (still gotta replace that rear vent window!)

The repro of the inner seal makes for a clean look

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'69 Fuel Injected Squareback. "B" D-jet. 1600 with balanced rotating assembly and lightened flywheel. Full flow and external filter.

'70 Riviera. 1600 SP with 30 PICT 3 carburetor, 205M distributor, stock muffler

@chaseyessi on Instagram

[Tram]

You're HIRED!!!
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[neena]

Some more progress was made towards getting us on our 7-week road trip, which will commence in the next few days (as soon as we load the bus and feel ready!):

We rebuilt the screens for the jalousie windows:

Also installed the Fiamma bike rack, which we only have a picture of because a friend who lives nowhere near us happened to be driving on the same road and saw us coming home from a final 100-mile shakedown drive, which also terminated at a barbecue. It is a wee bit off center, but we'll fix that before we load bikes on it:

We've been playing around with a few things up front, and have settled on this setup, which includes:
-the cup holder that replaces the ash tray
-an insulated bottle that fits in it perfectly
-a bluetooth speaker which gives us better sound when driving with windows down since it's pointed at our faces; we use the wired speakers for times when we're stationary
-a new phone holder that sticks to the dash via a gel suction cup (relatively easy to remove and hide in the glove box when parked in the city to deter more break-ins)
-the oscillating fan that changed our lives while driving our type 3 in NYC traffic (also gets removed when parked, along with all speakers)
-and two happy '70s colors:

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'69 Fuel Injected Squareback. "B" D-jet. 1600 with balanced rotating assembly and lightened flywheel. Full flow and external filter.

'70 Riviera. 1600 SP with 30 PICT 3 carburetor, 205M distributor, stock muffler

@chaseyessi on Instagram

[neena]

I know that all 10 of our thread's readers are on tenterhooks about when we're heading out on our trip but we made some discoveries that might delay us another day or two. Oh, and we're not packed either so there's that....

On our recent shake down drive, we found a slight oil pressure issue. We've been running 10W-30 oil and our oil pressure gauge has showed a healthy 10psi per 1k rpms but now that it's in the mid-90's every day, that ratio has changed. At 3k rpm cruise, the pressure was only a bit above 20....maybe 22 or 24. Thinking of dropping the 10-30 and moving to a 40 weight oil. That sound like a reasonable move to anyone?

Then, when scouting for alternative CHT mounting ring locations, we discovered an issue with how the heat exchanger flange meets the head. In other words, there's a gap (our biggest feeler gauge is .025" and that fit in with room to spare) between the exhaust gasket and the head.

Weird thing is it's not sooty around there at all like we'd expect with an exhaust leak so we're a little confused. Should we add "loosen all exhaust connections, reseat the heat exchanger, and tighten everything back up" to our to-do list before leaving?

Here you can see that the only place the flange, gasket, and head fit as they should is at the bottom just near the tin. It's a little easier to see that it's not just shadow if you turn your head or screen sideways when looking at the pic

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'69 Fuel Injected Squareback. "B" D-jet. 1600 with balanced rotating assembly and lightened flywheel. Full flow and external filter.

'70 Riviera. 1600 SP with 30 PICT 3 carburetor, 205M distributor, stock muffler

@chaseyessi on Instagram

[Wasted youth]

The exhaust needs to be corrected. It might not trouble you now, but will eventually.

Your windows look great! Where did you get the grey weatherstripping? Mine came to me in black.

[neena]

[Tram]

[D/A/N]

[busdaddy]

I agree with Tram, no soot or noise, leave it alone aside from an attempt at snugging up the nuts.
I think I see a step in the head surface peeking out in the gap, some ports have a raised area where the gasket seals against, you may be seeing the part of the casting that doesn't do any of the sealing work.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[D/A/N]

[Tram]

[D/A/N]

[Tram]

No, the loosening- and I shouldn't tell you this because I know you'll chew your nails over it, but what the hell - will indicate you need a new nut OR the stud is pulling out of the head... in which case you might be looking at a muff pull and tapping for/ installing a helicoil or a step stud.

On the other hand, maybe I just didn't gorilla tighten the MFer enough on install or maybe I got daffy and spaced torquing that one nut. It's a 50/50.
The fact there's no soot is very good, though.

The copper Schmugglefatz won't do any harm. And yes, the JB Crap is what's on the donut gaskets now.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[Tram]

Also... might I suggest setting your valves LOOSE for the heat... maybe .007. Also... consider changing trans fluid to Redline Synthetic for the trip.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[Wasted youth]

The window seals I got that are black are from Bus Depot