What's the best direction from here?

[LifeAsASuffix]

I've been reading, and researching, and I think I'm confusing myself more than I'm helping. I'm rebuilding a Rascal Dune buggy, and currently working on the chassis. I've finished most of the metal work and am getting close to finishing it. I still have some cleanup to do but want to make sure I am heading in the right direction. My initial plan was to send the chassis out to media blast, then prime and bed-line it. The other thought was to wire-wheel it and POR-15 (or similar), then bedliner. I have read nothing sticks well to the POR-15, and it needs a top-coat as it's not UV stable. I have no intention of making this a showcar or off-roader; just a fun weekend driver. At the same time I'm not one to cut corners and spray-bomb the car for a good-enough job. I want to do it right, but be practical about it. I've never done body work before, and I'm willing to learn. I like to do as much as I can myself, but at the same time I'm not opposed to a pro handling things that will have a steep/expensive learning curve.
Here's where the chassis is currently:

Let me know if I'm pointed in the right direction, or some things I need to make sure I take into consideration. If I'm way off, and there is a better way to handle it please don't hold back.

[Q-Dog]

I don't like bed liner so can't help you there.

But, I would seriously consider adding some reinforcements around the e-brake and heater control area on the tunnel. That is a common place for cracks to develop.

I made a saddle and welded it over the entire area. The holes are for plug welds.

_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[67 Sunroof]

I would scuff all you can and use the por15. I did it a few years ago and LOVE it. If exposed to iv light it fades though. I used it on my whole chassis and I am pretty picky but it’s awesome.
I welded in my patch panels, used seam sealer, and cleaned the chassis as best I could with alcohol. It’s still holding up well and really puts a pretty tough protective layer on things.
Just my opinion buddy....
In fact I am also going to por15 the insides of my fenders after it’s back from paint. I did all kinds of stuff-brake drums too! (Outsides)
Haha

[Danpa]

I first did my pan in Por-15 and didn't have much luck with it. Prepped it per their instructions and it peeled off badly in several places. (Some areas I could remove it with my cheapo shop vac!)
Stripped it all back off and did it with Masterseries, no problems. And it's UV stable.

Just my 2 cents...

Dan
_________________
67 Beetle (gone)
68 Bay Window Double Cab (gone) sob, sob!
64 Beetle (gone)
77 Scirocco (gone)
73 Squareback (scrapped)
70 Beetle (current, in pieces)

[beetlenut]

First option would be to sandblast the pan and then coat with your chosen paint. If you can't sandblast, I would sand with 60-80 grit. Leaving the finish you get with a wire wheel is too smooth, and doesn't offer enough "tooth" for the paint to grab and hold on to. If you do wire wheel, I would then go back and rough it up with 60-80 grit.

I haven't had much luck with Por15, and will never use it again. On the other had, I can't say enough good things about the Master Series products. The Silver primer is awesome stuff. You can see pics in my gallery of the pan I did.

My 2 cents...
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scrapyards are for quitters
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[67 Sunroof]

I’ll have to try out the master series stuff then.

[theKbStockpiler]

For the cost you can't beat a wire brush on the end of a rotary too like a drill or an angle die grinder. If you keep the area you're working on damp with spray oil or even water it works better.

Next use phosphoric acid or phosphoric acid mixed with a little vinegar on it to completely remove the rust.
With a rust treatment/reformer , the rust can only be about (Edit: .003") thick to be full proof. This stuff does seem to work better on thicker rust but you have to put many coats on until the end result is black and not brown. If used on thicker rust it leaves a gummy substance underneath.

_________________
My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.

[Danpa]

[LifeAsASuffix]

Thanks for all the responses. I'll give the wire wheel a try after I finish grinding and cleaning. I have used a cupped wheel on an angle grinder to clean areas where I've been working. I can get a few more wheels and see how it goes.
I've been reading and it seems like POR-15 seems to work well for slapping over some rusty old metal for the good enough finish. But seems to disappoint when prep work is done.
I've been reading good things on the Masterseries paints.
Anyone have any input on bedliner? My thought was it's flexible and strong, UV stable and easy to clean.
Thanks for all the help!

[Teeroy]

If you go with bedliner, you will need to sand whatever paint you put on, or the liner will peel
_________________
Pres. Rivercity VW Club www.rcvwclub.org
Founder Derr Wheat Panzers (DWP)
ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[clarkster75]

I haven't used it but there are certainly plenty of reviews on the Eastwood website.
Original Chassis Black Satin Finish
Think I will get around to it when I do my beetle. Looks like some decent stuff