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2067Bug Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 596
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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 2:53 pm Post subject: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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Does anyone have a procedure for changing the rear shock tower body pads on a 57 bug? Both of the rear fenders are off so I thought it would be a good time.
Thank you |
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txoval Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004 Posts: 3552 Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Posted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 6:35 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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I’ve never replaced just those pads, but if I was going to...
1) loosen pan/body bolts beneath rear seat, not completely remove
2) loosen rear half of bottom pan bolts
3) remove bolts at rear shock tower
4) place under rear bumper bracket and slow lift the body...very slowly
5) raise enough to remove old and insert new
6) move jack to other bumper bracket and do the same
7) re-torque bolts |
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2067Bug Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 596
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Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 5:08 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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txoval,
Thanks for the response - it makes sense to me. I'm also cautiously considering tackling the spring plate inner and outer bushings, but I hear it is a challenge and can be dangerous. After 61 years, I can only imagine what they look like.
Thanks |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5481 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:40 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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txoval wrote: |
I’ve never replaced just those pads, but if I was going to...
1) loosen pan/body bolts beneath rear seat, not completely remove
2) loosen rear half of bottom pan bolts
3) remove bolts at rear shock tower
4) place under rear bumper bracket and slow lift the body...very slowly
5) raise enough to remove old and insert new
6) move jack to other bumper bracket and do the same
7) re-torque bolts |
I read this request yesterday and since I haven't tried I didn't comment, but it made me think...
I did part out a couple old Bugs so I have pulled a couple of bodies. I hear that if the rear shock area body mounts are bad there can be body noise over rough roads (never experienced body noises caused by anything except rust induced loss of rigidity.) If I thought that might be my fix I would try by doing everything you said except step 2. I don't think the floor pan bolts need to be loosened as the movement desired is further back, the floor pan is quite flexible, and I would like to keep the aged floor pan gasket sealed. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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jason Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2002 Posts: 3444 Location: Garage
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Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:50 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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Check your door gaps first. I removed mine, got the gaps good, measured the mount area and made some aluminum ones. Gaps will stay put. |
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Mark Evans Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2004 Posts: 1931 Location: Alsea,Oregon
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Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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2067Bug wrote: |
txoval,
Thanks for the response - it makes sense to me. I'm also cautiously considering tackling the spring plate inner and outer bushings, but I hear it is a challenge and can be dangerous. After 61 years, I can only imagine what they look like.
Thanks |
Pulling those rear spring plates is never fun. On my '55 I got lucky, they came out as planned. Just watch your fingers at that first release point! _________________ '63 Ragtop |
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2067Bug Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 596
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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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Mark,
Thanks - I'm watching every YouTube video I can find. Apparently there are tools made specifically for the job. I don't plan on adjusting the torsion bars, just replacing the bushings. |
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Mark Evans Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2004 Posts: 1931 Location: Alsea,Oregon
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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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That depends on how they come out. Sometimes you only get the spring plate WITH the torsion. _________________ '63 Ragtop |
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txoval Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004 Posts: 3552 Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:33 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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Try not to sweat this too much. Once the pressure is removed it’s an easy job.
Keep the jack beneath and spring plate and arms/legs away from it...slowly lower jack while using a big screw driver or pry bar to move the springplate away from the stop.
You do have an angle measuring tool correct?
Since you’re just changing the bushings, if the torsion bar sticks in the spring plate, don’t worry about it, no need to separate them to just change the bushings. Do NOT use urethane bushings! They will squeak like hell later |
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2067Bug Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 596
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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 6:54 am Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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Yes – I have a protractor with a magnetic base, and ordered the bushings (part #11511245A) from WW. The car is totally stripped to include the engine waiting to be professionally painted. I did not see a need to remove the body since there was barely any rust found I'm keeping everything stock along with the original engine.
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111511245A
Thanks |
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txoval Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004 Posts: 3552 Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:13 am Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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Just know that without the additional weight, you will either have to chain the shock tower to the jack (so they work against each other) or use the spring plate compressor tool. |
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2067Bug Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 596
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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 3:45 am Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads & Sprng Plate Bushings |
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Txoval,
I’m still waiting for the bushings to arrive. From the WW picture of the bushings, it looks like there is no orientation of the bushing like the later bugs. I have not started the project yet but I noticed that one of the eight (both side) bolts holding the spring plates takes a 15 wrench and the others are 14s, and the 15 is shorter than the rest. It is possible that it was stripped but there is no indication at this point.
I also read that during reassemble it’s best to use two longer bolts to pull the spring plate in. I’m wondering it a C-clamp could do the job. Did you coat the outside of both bushings with talcum power and not put anything on the inside of the bushings?
Thanks |
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txoval Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2004 Posts: 3552 Location: The Woodlands, TX
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Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:34 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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It’s been a few years since I replaced mine...2013
I do not remember different size bolts and I replaced all of them with SS allen-head bolts
You should not need longer bolts and there is no orientation...they are simply round.
I did not use any powder, just a slight smear of grease |
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2067Bug Samba Member
Joined: October 05, 2005 Posts: 596
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Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 3:16 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Shock Tower Body Pads |
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I wanted to close the post by saying it was an experience replacing the inner and outer bushings, but not as bad as anticipated. I cleaned up the torsion bars, used rubber bushings with a little talcum powder, and torqued everything according to the manual. I used the compression tool more for safety than utility. I found that using the jack beneath the spring plate while prying the springplate away from the stop worked best. And Yes, I used my protractor to set the inclination of the unloaded radius arm according to 57 specs. I also replaced the shock tower pads.
Thanks for all the help. |
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