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Berry Mini-T build v2.0
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:22 am    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
The CNC slave has a 7/8 inch bore. The Wilwood master has a 5/8 inch bore. My main concern is if I will have sufficient movement at the release lever. It seems to be the most recommended combo so I guess it works.


The slave cylinder piston has its shaft in the center of its piston face, extending back though the cylinder end cap. The actual area of the 7/8" diameter piston which the fluid presses would be reduced by the area of the diameter of the shaft.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

Good point! Roughly how large is that shaft? Just looking at the pictures of parts I don't have I'm guessing 5/16".

[edit 4-9-18]
I now have the CNC slave cylinder in my position and provide numbers myself.

It is listed as 7/8 inch bore and my measurements of the assembly suggests it is built in inches (not metric). The shaft diameter is 3/8 inch. 7/8 bore minus the a 3/8 shaft means the effective area of piston is 0.79 inch diameter.
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Last edited by EVfun on Mon Apr 09, 2018 6:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:36 am    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I don't have one handy.

5/8" = 200 sq. mm

7/8" = 387 sq. mm

5/16" = 50 sq. mm

So the piston would actually have a 337 sq. mm effective area.

Its still significantly bigger than the master cylinder area, but like you said, its what most people use
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 5:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I also have the early curved short clutch cable arm. Running some numbers...

A 3/4 inch master cylinder will require 44% more effort than a 5/8 inch bore. I could not find hard data on the different clutch arm lengths, but it appears that my older short arm increases effort about 30%. The point being, the smaller master cylinder bore is similar in effect to the longer arm (just a little more effective.)

I was wondering if I should fill the clutch system with DOT 5 silicone brake fluid. It would be odd to be using 2 different "brake" fluids, but I have thought about converting the brakes. I won't do it until I am in a good place to replace the master cylinder, all wheel cylinders, and all flex hoses at once (since I take care of things I don't know if I'll ever be in the place where all need servicing.)

I keep thinking... crap, this summer buggy is going to end up more luxury than the oval I use as a daily driver much of the year. A gas gauge, hydraulic clutch, and seat heaters in the works too. I'm getting soft. Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:41 am    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

The Berry Mini-T has always been one of my favorite buggy designs. I've always thought mounting a functional radiator in the grill with coolant run through tube to a rear engine would take best advantage of the T design.

A 1.6L Toyota 4A-GE engine mounted in back would work well, Kennedy makes an adapter to put them on a VW trans, but they weigh 340#s. VW engines are a bit over 200lbs http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/engineweights.html

I've been working on a 3-wheeler project and had Kennedy make me an adapter to put a 1L Geo Metro 3 cylinder engine (Suzuki G10) on a VW trans. Its all aluminum, has 55hp and weighs just 135#s

Liquid cooling makes having a good functioning heater a lot easier
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 4:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I've got the CNC slave and was test fitting it. I plan to set up the flex hose and plumbing very much like Cbeck's rail. As a side note, the instructions with the CNC clutch slave say it is intended to be used with a 3/4 inch master cylinder, not the 5/8 I bought and plenty of others have used. I think it should work fine with the early shorter arm on the transaxle.

BL3Manx, it has been my fav since seeing the body in a book as a child. If I had been smart I would have been mesmerized by the Berry Mini-T4 on the next page. The 2 seat body style is a lot more cramped inside than a Manx style buggy. It is clearly about looks, but I do like the looks.

I was wondering if anyone had pictures of the installed clutch slave with the clutch adjusted. I'm also looking for information on how to adjust a hydraulic clutch. I have the early curved clutch lever and cast in boden tube bracket and am using a CNC slave with the ball nuts at each end. The installation will look much like the one by Paul Deatherage I posted earlier. I'm not seeing much adjustment available and depending on where in the arc the clutch actually runs I may want to create a higher attachment point at the transaxle side. Thanks for everyone's help on this, a hydraulic clutch on an aircooled VW is a new to me.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 4:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

Replying to myself to remind me to update the images of the clutch slave install. The CNC slave, as shipped with the ball nut on both ends, looks like it was made for the older transaxles with built in boden tube mount and short curved release arm. I won't know for sure until I get my turnkey engine from Mofoco.

I also need to get some pictures of the exhaust system too. I went with a reproduction 1973 Thing dual exhaust. I just sent it out to be given a black ceramic coating. This should be durable, out of the way, fairly quiet, and designed so the heat riser works correctly.

Progress has been slow lately. It has bee more overtime and yardwork, and less garage time that I would like, but beach buggies don't have tight time schedules or budgets, right. Laughing

On a generally Volkswagen note, the only vehicle I've driven since April 27th is my '57 Bug. I guess its a daily driver oval. Cool
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2018 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I know your trans has the cast on bowden tube bracket and this wouldn't fit (I guess) but its homemade and also the best designed heim joint type slave mount I've seen. Its just a flat plate with three different holes which can change the slave angle/leverage and allow for a longer/shorter range of slave installation. FWIW

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 3:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I suspect the CNC type 1 kit was designed for for use with the stock cast in bracket and curved arm. I posted a picture by Paul Deatherage on the first page of this thread showing how it fits without binding. I still need to get photos of my hydraulic clutch install.

Today, on the way home from work, I picked up my exhaust system. It is a 1973 Thing exhaust system that I sent out for sandblasting and a black ceramic coating. You have to settle for an image on the living room floor, until I get my engine. I'm not planning anything fancy, a basically stock 1600 single port should move 1200 lb. around just fine.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

After fighting with sub-quailty parts on the clutch set-up I finally have the whole clutch slave system installed and bled. I went with DOT5 brake fluid, nice not to panic and run for soap and water when the a little fluid squirts around the bleeder.

How much should the throwout bearing move when the clutch pedal is pressed down? My throwout bearing moves about 6mm.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 7:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

Here are some pictures of the clutch install:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 1:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I have an engine now! Its a nice rebuilt 1600cc single port. I guess I should get some engine pictures, but it's nothing exciting -- that was never my intent. My daily driver is a Bug with a 36 horse, so a 1100 lb. buggy with 50 horse should be plenty for me (its stock wheels showing in the background.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I am having some problems lining up the heat risers. The exhaust part you see is the left rear connector of a Dansk 1973 VW Thing exhaust. The other side has the right side has the extended small pipe going to the muffler. It doesn't quite fit either but is a little closer.

With what I have there I could actually install a heat riser block off plate and then the exhaust. There is a vertical gap as well as sideways bolt hole misalignment too. Neither side is close enough that I can put the bolts in and tighten everything down to force alignment. I'm fishing for suggestions here!
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I have been doing more paying work than VW work, but I have not stopped completely. Here are some shots of progress with a line or two:

Roll the car out of the garage so I can clean it. I like the look of the stock and widened 14 inch Bus wheels.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Wow, they are going to limit my steering... anyone with experience please chime in, but rough measurements suggest the steering diameter is now about 45 feet!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Despite the heavy duty cross shaft in place, it turns out the transaxle was not clearanced for a 200mm flywheel. It is now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

See!
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Engine on the lift, soon to be installed. I will have to unbolt the body and raise it to install the engine. The Berry Mini-T was more about looks than function and the alternator won't clear the body unless the engine is already all the way in.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

That lift is the bomb, it supports the engine well and is readily available from Harbor Freight Tools for less than $90. It is the one purchased by Jeff in this thread.
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

I thought it was clearanced for the 200mm flywheel, but the engine wouldn't quite slide in all the way. It did leave faint marks to guide a little more cutting.

Then I thought I was done, slid the engine all the way home by hand, but when I turned the crank 1 full revolution I heard just a tiny bit of noise. I pulled the engine again and found 4 areas with a tiny score line caused by a tiny burr on the front of 1 flywheel tooth. I removed the burr and figured I should have at least that much clearance.

This is the final result. The burr left faint lines at the back of both lower stud holes, near the upper left bolt hole, and just below the starter. In addition I had a light gear width scrape at the bottom, that is why the clearancing is slightly greater toward the right side. If you look you can see a little of the sharpie marks where I marked for the final work.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I need to post some of the hydraulic clutch rework. The hard lines, CNC clutch slave, and IRS rear flex hose to the slave are about the only parts in the prior photos unchanged in that system. Oh, and the brakes are next as the master cylinder decided to puke all over the garage floor. I guess the master cylinder is 20 year old, and all the flex boses 30 years old so it will get all that replaced plus wheel cylinders and then switched to DOT 5 brake fluid like the clutch.
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 8:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
I know your trans has the cast on bowden tube bracket and this wouldn't fit (I guess) but its homemade and also the best designed heim joint type slave mount I've seen. Its just a flat plate with three different holes which can change the slave angle/leverage and allow for a longer/shorter range of slave installation. FWIW
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Version two of the clutch slave installation ended up similar, using off the shelf parts. With version one I needed to back off the adjustment a little more than the design allowed. It was entering the range of travel where there was some binding on release (and release only gets higher as the clutch wears.) There is an EMPI heim joint bracket and some 24mm long metric coupling nuts. I also switched out to the strait clutch arm, both for the vertically elongated slot and to find some room to install that upper engine bolt.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun May 26, 2019 3:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

Anyone run an aluminum beam on a street Buggy?

With the front end apart I'm thinking its a good time to install an adjustable front beam. I have a stock beam with the tubes cut and turned 1/4 inch and the shock towers cut off. The king and linkpin shocks don't clear the body.

What I need is a stock width K&L beam with adjusters and no shock towers. Of course, pretty is a plus. With 14 inches cut from the frame and the controls moved back 10 inches I am literally sitting in the back seat and the total weight on the front axle is under 400 lb. It seems like a good place to use a shockless aluminum front beam with adjusters, if I can find some clamps for the stock frame.

Any leads on the frame clamps for a stock pan? Is this a bad idea even on such a light Buggy? If aluminum is still a bad idea do you have a recommended source for an adjustable steel beam set up without shocks?
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 1:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

Some photos of the slow progress, and a few more questions too.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Wow, the body is real close to the pulley and fan belt. It is about 2mm above the pulley but the body lines up with the pulley groove so its about 9mm clearance. I have the transaxle solid mounted but was wondering if that is really enough clearance. The body was stored standing on that end for years before I got it so there is some well set sag, normally there would be a little more room. Should I make a 1/2 inch body lift?


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

There is about 4 inches of room above the carb. I need to keep a little of that to remove the air cleaner. I'd like to run a stock oil bath but cannot run any filter that stands above the fan shroud. Any ideas on a better filter? I don't like the way all the common filters hit the choke housing and don't really sit right so I would like something better.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is an image showing why king and link pin shock towers have to be cut down or off with a Berry Mini-T body.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

A shot under the dash at the pedal assembly. I'm running a 3/4 inch Wilwood clutch master cylinder now. I have also replaced the brake master cylinder and soon will replace the flex hoses and wheel cylinders. The clutch system is running DOT 5 silicone brake fluid and the brakes will be too. The front mounted battery and ground strap are visible, as is the bracket for the Speedhut speedometer GPS antenna at the top center of the photo. The body will be pulled again before I'm done so not all the bolts that hold the body on are in place.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

Really loving the clean look of that new engine you built. The only issue I'm able to possibly help with is probably the easiest to resolve; namely, raising the air filter with a little "velocity stack" to extend it's neck.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I was concern'd that UNfilter'd air could sneek in around the air filter base & clamp. Found a plumbing connector at Home Depot, used a portion of it.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
Wow, the body is real close to the pulley and fan belt. It is about 2mm above the pulley but the body lines up with the pulley groove so its about 9mm clearance. I have the transaxle solid mounted but was wondering if that is really enough clearance. The body was stored standing on that end for years before I got it so there is some well set sag, normally there would be a little more room. Should I make a 1/2 inch body lift?

Work is looking good - I like the pulley "guard", I've eyeballed that particular type on and off for years.

I'm probably in the minority, but unless you can push the rear of the body down and get that portion to contact the pulley, I'd just run it as is.

However, if you do through the effort of making a body lift, that would provide you additional height for air filter clearance, or for using a different air filter. You could also run a bus or ghia air filter elbow with an oil bath off to the side. The filter you have works, but as I understand they're not as efficient as the factory setups.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Berry Mini-T build v2.0 Reply with quote

stevemariott wrote:
Work is looking good - I like the pulley "guard", I've eyeballed that particular type on and off for years.

I'm probably in the minority, but unless you can push the rear of the body down and get that portion to contact the pulley, I'd just run it as is.

However, if you do through the effort of making a body lift, that would provide you additional height for air filter clearance, or for using a different air filter. You could also run a bus or ghia air filter elbow with an oil bath off to the side. The filter you have works, but as I understand they're not as efficient as the factory setups.

Thanks for the kind words. I took a vacation to visit family last week so I'm a bit behind. It appears you are in the majority with your opinion to run it as is -- 100% of the opinions (1 of 1) support that idea. Laughing

I would love to run a factory oil bath, but that simply isn't possible. One issue is that tightening a band clamp around a filter to the carb isn't practical with the body in place. The reach around and up allows me to get my hands on it, but not while seeing what I am doing. So I'm looking at options.

At the most extreme end I could install a 34 ICT or 34 EPC carb kit. They are a lot lower than even the factory intake. However, I do have a split exhaust, reproduction 1973 Thing from Dansk, and dual exhaust may not like splitting the intake too. Plus, I don't want to give up the low end because I love the feel of being able to just roll on the throttle without shifting. Plus, I've been known to skip first gear.

I can modify my 2 inch tall foam air filter to work. I have it so that is the least expensive option. I'm not really worried about the cheapest option

Is there a velocity stack that fits a stock Bug carb with the 2 inch top? I could use that and then a velocity mesh on top. The carb is way up under the body and don't drive off road so that would regain the velocity stack function of the stock filter and be easy to pop off the cover and clean. Perhaps these EMPI parts could be modified to fit a stock carb? (I'm looking at stack 40-6057 and filter 43-6191.) Perhaps a motorcycle velocity stack is available to fit a stock Bug carb?

Below is a another picture of the body to pulley clearance and a new toy I got on that vacation that I have been playing with.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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