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The 1641 for my Detroit money pit
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dennismcd707 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

I guess I don't want to see my "cheater cam" and "super stocker" heads go to waste by being under carbureted. The 34-3 might be too small, so I'm gonna go big. I only wish I'd gotten bigger pistons, but that's another story.

A progressive Weber 2 barrel or the Weber 40 IDF? Redline, or Redline?
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Check your PM's.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

I just bought a nice used pair of Italy Weber IDF 40's for $325. I had to take them all apart and clean them up though. Probably need re-jetting but they had 28mm Venturies.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Deluxe-Center-Mount-P...-k1410.htm
vs
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2243488
I thought you had a single Manifold so you could try them each way. You will need 28mm venturi's for them.
Mine that I will probably put on one of my 1800 type 1 engines as duals:
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 9:18 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

So I guess the next thing is to order some custom length push rods. Can anybody recommend a place?

My stock pushrods are 11.060 inches, and my new ones should only be about .080 thou shorter (10.980).

Lastly, I still have to decide on a carburetor. Then it's on to the alternator and fan housing. Oh, and the clutch and pressure plate too.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 9:45 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

What push rods are you wanting to install?
Chromolly, You can get from any vendor and cut to length. Set lash at "0"+ clearance.

Aluminum, You can order from AC.NET cut to your requirements. Set lash at ".006"
Or go whole hog and order dual taper from Dan R.

Clutch and PP for your application. Stock will work. There are many vendors that sell complete kits. If you want a little better grip on the PP. Order a Kennedy stage 1. Just make sure that you order a PP that matches your transmission.

Carbs, The link Dan posted. Is a pretty good deal. And they are a complete set. keep a keen eye on the classifieds. Deals on good carbs don't last long.

On the charging system. Unless you are planning on running a huge electrical load. You can use a generator. I do!

Good Luck.
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dennismcd707 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:52 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

I guess I wasn't very clear in my last post. I still have to buy pushrods, and I think I'll go with aluminum from AC.N. (thanks)
I may or may not need to buy a carb or carbs. I still have to decide. Leaning towards buying, but I have choices with what I already have here at home.

I've already bought an alternator. Even attached it to my fan housing. Now I have to do a mock assembly and see how it fits on the engine. One problem I have to figure out is how to tighten the large nut that holds the fan to the back of the alternator. It's supposed to be pretty tight, I presume.

Next is the clutch and pp. I've already purchased a Kennedy Stage 1, 1700# pressure plate (fits all years) and a Daiken brand semi metallic clutch disc. But you mentioned that I've got to be sure it matches my tranny. What am I looking for in a match? You've got me worried. It's advertised as having a removable center ring for early or late transmissions. That's what you're probably referring to, correct?

So .... do I install the clutch now, or should I wait until just before I mate it with the trans (engine install day)?
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Relax Dennis. You're doing a great job!
On the PP. The early ones have the ring on the PP. Later ones don't. I just checked the one I have on hand and confirmed this. I made the mistake ordering the incorrect one last year. So it was here to check.

Depending on your Alt. pulley. Install the Alt. front and back pulleys. Place a screw driver in the notch on the forward pulley and turn the pulley until the screwdriver catches on the Alt housing. Just like as if you were installing a belt. Then tighten the fan nut.
You can also use a strap wrench(google it) to hold the pulley while tightening the fan nut.

Good Luck.
EDIT: I was mistaken on the Dan R. push rods.
These are what I was referring to,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2159797
dennismcd707 wrote:
I guess I wasn't very clear in my last post. I still have to buy pushrods, and I think I'll go with aluminum from AC.N. (thanks)
I may or may not need to buy a carb or carbs. I still have to decide. Leaning towards buying, but I have choices with what I already have here at home.

I've already bought an alternator. Even attached it to my fan housing. Now I have to do a mock assembly and see how it fits on the engine. One problem I have to figure out is how to tighten the large nut that holds the fan to the back of the alternator. It's supposed to be pretty tight, I presume.

Next is the clutch and pp. I've already purchased a Kennedy Stage 1, 1700# pressure plate (fits all years) and a Daiken brand semi metallic clutch disc. But you mentioned that I've got to be sure it matches my tranny. What am I looking for in a match? You've got me worried. It's advertised as having a removable center ring for early or late transmissions. That's what you're probably referring to, correct?

So .... do I install the clutch now, or should I wait until just before I mate it with the trans (engine install day)?

_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

I had previously bought a brand new fan housing, which meant I had to buy new doghouse tins.
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Upon opening up the Empi package, I find these two rubber seals and a strip of weatherproofing.
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My brand new, out of the box oil cooler already has the strip of weatherproofing glued to it, so I'm at a loss.
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Is the extra weather strip included just in case you need it? And what about the two seals? Where do they go? I've looked and tried to find a home for them, all in the general area of the doghouse, doghouse tin, and the oil cooler, but I still can't figure out where they belong. It would be nice having directions. Can anybody chime in here?

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I had to look at an old fan housing to figure out where the doghouse tins belong. I'm still unsure on how to fasten them to the housing. There's a place for two screws, but .......I can only access one of them, so I must be doing something wrong. I have to play with it and stare at it for a while.

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......and I had my wife help me lower the fan housing and alternator assembly down onto the engine, just to see how she fit. It's hung up in a few places, so it's not sitting down all the way just yet. I have to work on it.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And lastly, after attempting to get the sled tins attached, I took this picture to show a big hole where I think I'm missing some shrouding or tin of some kind. The pushrod tubes are totally exposed, as is the entire area under the cylinders. I didn't think my decision "not" to use the shrouding (breast plate tin) that fits underneath the pulley would leave an empty and vulnerable void like this. Looking at it, it just seems like something big is missing.......besides the breast plate.

I gotta say. I can't remember where I bought the sled tins from, but they were all bent up and don't fit worth a crap. Nothing lines up. I have visions of having to use bailing wire to tie some things together. They're supposed to fasten to the big cylinder shrouds (with the number of each cyl. stamped on them), but as I said, none of the holes line up. It's a joke. These aftermarket tins suck. Newsflash. Brick wall
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:09 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

EMPI tin sucks! But you already know that.
I would have cleaned up that OG DH tin and ran with it instead of fitting that EMPI shit.
Not all EMPI stuff these days is complete garbage. But anything tin related is.
You have to be choosy when selecting EMPI parts.

The square seal goes on the outlet duct where it passes through the forward firewall lower tin (if your engine was to be installed in a beetle). The straightish rubber seal goes between the outlet duct and the upper DH outlet. Put it on the lower duct.

When you install the outlet ducts. Install the lower one first then the upper one over the lower. I just did the same process this week. So it's fresh in my mind.

The extra weather strip is just redundant. It was supplied with the DH FS in case the buyer already had the cooler. Not a new one like you do.
Or the strip may be to seal the upper outlet housing to the DH FS outlet right at the oil cooler. I add my own there to get a good seal. Look at it and you'll see what I mean.

Now is a good time to mock up your "J" tubes and see where they align in relationship with the sled tins, heads,and push rod tubes. The "J" tubes might fill the gap where you think the PR tubes are exposed.

Keep at it Dennis. You'll get there!
Good Luck.
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Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
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There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 4:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Your missing the rear deflectors.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It's one of the tins circled on the bottom left.

Sorry it's not a great picture. You need one for each side, and they are slightly different.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 6:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

FreeBug wrote:
flat4olsen wrote:
Looks good. I don't se no 9 and 10, but maybe it's just the photo.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


You can see n°10 in the first photo, just above the red circle Wink .



After searching past posts, I've found the names of the pieces of tin that I'm needing. #4 cyl lower rear air deflector and #2 cyl lower rear air deflector. At least that's what Awesome Powdercoat calls them.

Here's another place I found some info:

Glenn wrote:
Here's my sheetmetal. Ignore the Berg breather and i'm using Type 181 industrial tins since i'm running J tubes and not heater boxes.


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.[/quote]

I think I found the missing tin on Cip1:
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-131-119-358

That's the link to one of the two pieces. I'm getting the other side as well. Not to beat a subject to death, but here are a few more shots of the tin not lining up, as well as a few of the mock up process. It's coming together.....and looking like it's gonna be harder and harder to get out of the basement. (I may need your help Spike)

I still have to order my pushrods and choose a carb. And it seems I need to find some more hardware. The missing items like nuts, bolts and screws......especially when you buy a brand new item, it seems it never stops. I'm always missing a certain bolt, nut or screw. In particular, the new fan shroud didn't come with any hardware, nor the heads, nor the new engine case, etc. Sorry, just venting. Laughing


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:44 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

You also need a pair of Industrial tins to fill the gap of not having heater boxes, will help protect Push rod tubes and make the air come out the right direction
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Unfortunately you now know the reason there must be a thousand threads on here about crappy fitting aftermarket tin. Sad

You will get responses like "Just get good OG tin!" But it's really not that easy. Decent OG tin is the first thing I look for at Pamona every time I go. After a few years, I've ALMOST have a complete set. Most tin I find is aftermarket junk, or OG tin that is rusted away or crunched up.

You can scour the classified here and see what you can find. It all pops up, but it can get pricey with shipping.

Or just feel the pain and massage all the aftermarket stuff until it fits.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 8:48 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Oh, what's up with your "J" tubes?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:32 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Pruneman99 wrote:
Oh, what's up with your "J" tubes?

The engine is for a rail car.
I imagine a bobtail exhaust system is in order.

When I commented earlier on mocking up the "J" tubes. My mind was in beetle mode. Sorry Dennis. It's still good that you mocked it up.
Like others have mentioned. You could benefit from a set of industrial tins to help the cooling and protect your PR tubes from road/trail debris.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:12 pm    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

67rustavenger wrote:
Pruneman99 wrote:
Oh, what's up with your "J" tubes?

The engine is for a rail car.


Well that makes perfect sense. Carry on Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 5:57 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Rail's don't need all that tin Laughing Wink
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 9:04 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Yea, my exhaust system is a tri-mil bobtail header with a quiet pack muffler and inch and a half tubing. I've read what J tubes are used for, but I don't think I've ever seen one. I had to mock up the exhaust (and intakes) because the tin had to be bent to accommodate.

I also know that because this is a rail, there is some tin I can leave off the engine. I'm just trying to include important stuff, and it's difficult (kind of) listening to so many opinions on engine tin. Some folks will say that this is needed, some will say that "that" is a necessity. And all agree that original German tin is the way to go......if you can find it.

I've read a lot of threads, and there certainly are a lot of opinions, but one I agree with is the use of industrial tins. I agree that I would benefit from using them. Now, I just have to find them. Drool
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Gene Berg and Awesome Powdercoat have them, Aircooled.net .at as well
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:42 am    Post subject: Re: The 1641 for my Detroit money pit Reply with quote

Ugh, I hate those China tins with a passion.
Same with those China fan shrouds..

Best to find a core motor on Craigslist or something.
Pay $300 for a blown motor with all of the factory tin attached..

I just bought and sold a bus in order to get the extra spare motor it had.

Look closely at the Awesome Powdercoat site to get an idea of what it takes to work the China tin into "shape".
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