The 1641 for my Detroit money pit

[Spike0180]

Any updates?
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Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[dennismcd707]

My new forged crank arrived on Tuesday. I ordered it right after I stripped my old one .........so I've been waiting a while. Had I known it was not in stock, I would have purchased elsewhere.

Anyway, I'm happy to have a new crank. Had the folks at MOFOCO install the crank gears, so she's ready for install. I also purchased Scat's extra long gland nut bolt. More threads for peace of mind.

....and if anybody has read their share of threads here on theSamba, there comes a time where the writer/poster explains how busy he is with life and other "non-VW" stuff, such as chores to keep the wife happy, or side jobs to fund the hobby. Well, I'm here to report that I too have all this other stuff going on in my life, and my progress has been slow.

It's kind of funny. When I began this journey with the idea of building another air cooled VW engine after 36 years, I kind of rushed to buy all this stuff. I was excited and I couldn't wait to start building. Now, here it is a year later, and I'm learning all about going slow. Assemble, then dis-assemble. Assemble, then jump through the next hoop. NOT HOW I DID IT THE FIRST TIME!! The first time had some minor glitches, but nothing like this go around. Oh well, I'm still havin' fun............... kind of.

I'll probably start working on it again soon. A little here, a little there. I oiled up the crank yesterday so it wouldn't rust, but I didn't measure anything. I should go do that now. My luck, something will be oversized.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

Here it is: 10692-F 69MM 4340 FORGED VOLKSTROKER COUNTERWEIGHTED CRANKSHAFT for $280 plus shipping, straight from our Asian worker bees in China. I'm wondering about the set screws. Why are they there, does anybody know?

My next step is to start disassembling the engine so I can swap out the crank. Sounds easier than it is, because I always run into issues. But that's okay, one step at a time.

............ and maybe someday I'll have a running engine.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[fivelugshortaxle]

[dennismcd707]

I got back to it today and swapped out my crank. Began by disassembling my short block with the stripped out crank. Took all of the rods off and put 'em on the new crank. No problems. Put the new crank into the case, torqued it shut....and the crank spun freely. Geez, it's nice to have things go right for a change. Took it apart, cleaned, and reassembled, then sealed it shut with Gasgacinch. Cam installed correctly, crank and distributor in sync with number one, lifters in and lubed, and all of the case fasteners are torqued to specs. Next it's my oil pump and oil screen and sump cover. I have to reuse my old gaskets, so it's a good thing I didn't muck 'em up.

....and again speaking of gland nuts, this time I wanted to use my new extra long Scat gland nut bolt, but it's 38mm, and my torque master device only fits a standard 36mm bolt. I wanted to avoid having to use a pry bar/cheater bar for lack of a way of securing the engine whilst I do the torquing. Maybe this time I'll use a standard length bolt, only I'll go easy on the torque value. I really would prefer to use this torque master tool.

But I'm not even that far yet, because I'm going to be mating for the first time my new crank with my new flywheel, and as we all know, that doesn't always go smoothly. That's next on the agenda.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[mikewilkinson007]

This is a fantastic post. Happy you’re still at it!
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72 Super - Marina Blue
1641 AH Dual Port
Dual Weber ICT 34's
Bosch 034

Long Gone: 70 Vert, 66, 68, 73SB, 70, 72, 61 Rag and a 64 with a cinder block in the spare tire well.

[vilihardrada]

I do not have a torque meister, I use a 600 lb. ft. torque wrench. To do this I have a 4 foot piece of heavy angle iron holes drilled to match two on the fly wheel. set case on blocks and torque away.

[dennismcd707]

Now I have the honor and privilege of once again trying to mate for the first time a new crankshaft with a new flywheel. Eight dowels to fit into eight holes by being drawn in with the gland nut bolt. I get it on so far, then I take it off and clean it, then I get it on a little bit further, and then it's off again. I've already reamed the holes of the flywheel with an 8mm reamer. Eventually it gets easier, but as of right now, I'm still working on it.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

Flywheel mating is a drag, and that's all I'll say on the subject. Total pain in the ass. But it's done. On and off several times, but all the way on "ON", meaning torqued to 270 pounds and then removed again. This torque master tool is the greatest. I set my crank end play to .004, then I installed the main oil seal. Things were going smoothly, and usually when everything is going good on this engine project, something seems to go wrong.

I put the flywheel on again, thinking at the time that it would be for the final time. I get done, and the engine won't turn. I can't turn the flywheel. Huh? So I take the flywheel off, and see that the oil seal is screwed up. The metal ring became loose, so I scratch my head and replace it, this time installing the new seal dry, and carefully tapping it beneath the case just a little. I didn't do that before, but this time I could use the screwed up seal as a tool, to drive it with a hammer. Thank you youtube.

Bottom line, if I put the seal in correctly the first time, I would have saved a little time, plus the cost and inconvenience of wasting a main oil seal again. But anyway, it's installed again, and so is the flywheel.........for the final time. And torqued to 270 pounds to a forged 4340 Chromoly crank, not 400 pounds like my last attempt....to a cheap crankshaft.......which got me to this point,... again. So a mock up is next, to double check deck height and see how well it turns over with the pistons and cylinders attached! We'll see how far I get this coming week.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[Rome]

How are you removing the flywheel after each checking session? About 15 yrs ago a friend made me a simple removal tool from scrap metal. He found an approx. 18" long box-section metal "bar", and welded a large-thread nut approx. 1" diameter to the center. Drilled the center of the bar with an approx. 1" dia. hole, then installed a matching long bolt. When he gave it to me, I drilled two holes equally outboard of the center nut that lined up with two opposite holes in the flywheel for the pressure plate, and finally fitted in two long M8 x 1.25 bolts. With the bar in place so that the center large nut faces the engine, I turn the center bolt by hand until it fits against the end of the crankshaft. Turn the bolt more with a wrench to slowly and evenly work the flywheel off the crank's dowel pins. If you have a welder or know somebody who does, it would be a 5 minute job for them to weld on the center nut.

This tool would be helpful for you on your next engine.

[dennismcd707]

To get the flywheel off, I used a pry bar. I would pry, turn the flywheel, and pry again. It got easier each time I pried it off. And the glad nut would draw it in. Time consuming, but the only way to get a brand new crank and flywheel to mate.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[Paul Jr]

[dennismcd707]

Are you able to post pictures of yours? It's real hard to see the tool in the photos you posted, they're kinda dark. I appreciate the tip. How else would I be able to use that 38mm Scat "extra long" gland nut bolt with the torque master tool, other than making my own tool? Makes sense. Of course, I suck at making tools. That's why I want to see better pictures.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[satterley_sr]

I see a tube of white lithium grease. Beware! I plugged up a filter on a new build using that crap. Lost oil pressure and eventually the bearings. Use the engine build grease or the red lube for engine builds.
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DDC racing

[Paul Jr]

I don’t have a better way of taking pictures (no cell phone because I,m saving money to build my first VW and make it road worthy)and this camera might be older than me.
Will try to touch up the pictures for you. Maybe I can adjust the brightness and repost them.

[Paul Jr]

[dennismcd707]

Installed the fuel pump and rear crank pulley again today, tapping down the pulley with a rubber mallet and then torquing it to 32 foot pounds. I hope I don't have a reason to have to pull it off again. Then I cleaned and oiled my pistons and cylinders, and installed number one to check deck height. Measured at .070 on both number one and number two cylinders. With my heads CC'd at 47, that gives me a compression ratio of 8.1, according to the engine calculator. I'm gonna leave it alone, unless I'm talked out of it. Is 8.1 fine for either 87 or 92 octane gas? The sandrail is light too.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[rodeking]

A 40-45 deck would be better but the only way you can change that now is to have the bottom of the barrels cut. Probably not worth it now..

[dennismcd707]

.....to be more exact, number one was .070 and number two was .066. My old crank was giving me a deck height around .056 or so. Yea, nothing I can do about it if I'm being realistic.
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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[dennismcd707]

I don't know how unusual it is to have a variation in deck height from side to side, but my 3 and 4 cylinders both measured .056. If I were to shim my 3 and 4 cylinders ten thou, then all four would be within less than five thou of each other. I'm a novice here, so I don't know how critical this is. The word balance comes to mind, but I'm not sure if that applies in this application. Any advice would be appreciated.

The next step is to install the heads, but I'm holding back. I need to understand the deck height situation a bit better. Plus, this is still a mock up stage.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, big valve modified racing heads, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, car has over 368,000 actual miles. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)