clunking in the right rear

[crankbait09]

After a number of forum searches for a "clunking noise in the rear when hitting bumps", I found a number of possibilities. So I began looking at my existing condition to see if there was anything obvious.

I first looked at the rear body pad in the shock tower area. That pad looks new and I proceeded to tighten that bolt down. It didn't tighten down much, but it didn't tighten.

My next item to look at was the shock. I am not sure how much movement would cause a clunk in a shock, but the shock bolt was definitely easy to move when I placed a socket on it. I did tighten that a tad, but, like I said, Could a half turn really cause it to malfunction? There was a small gap in between the rubber grommet of the shock, and where the bolt meets up with it. I am showing some photos of the shock area, as well as a video of the shock "Wobbling" after tightening. Not sure if that's normal. I checked the shock on the drivers side and those bolts were tight. So that made me wonder if I may have fixed the issue, but I am not sure. Do the shocks look okay, or should they be replaced?

At this point, I had the drums and everything off, so I did not get to take it out to test it. I will do that once the brakes are all back together. As for a visual, what do you think?

https://flic.kr/p/25BPBzQ

[67rustavenger]

Even if you tightened the body to shock tower bolt.
You may still have the clunk. Reason being, is that the washer under the bolt is too small to make good contact to hold the body tight.
There is a special shaped washer that goes in the pocket under the bolt.

Good Luck.
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[rusty60]

Had similar clunking, in neutral it clunked over bumps, It was the shock bolt. Tightened the heck out of it and solved the clunk!! crank them down

[KTPhil]

Check the hold down clamps of the battery, too!

[crankbait09]

I definitely know it's not the battery. Whatever this clunk is, also has squeaking to go along with it. Bother are very loud. Definitely metal on metal

[KTPhil]

Then I'd replace the spring plate bushings.
There are threads on how to do this, and some tips are buried in the "raise or lower" sticky.

[crankbait09]

As I look closer at the diagram that WW has, as well as the picture 67rustavenger posted, I see that metal washer that I don't have. But after looking at the drivers side, that doesn't have it either.
hmmmmmmmmm

with something like this, there is no way to narrow the issue down without replacing things in hopes that it works, right?

ive tightened the bolt, but certainly dont wanna snap the head off. I guess there isn't much I can do until I test drive it and see if my tightening of the shock, and the shock tower bolt worked. Gotta get my brakes put back together first.

[60ragtop]

the loose shock bolt could cause it. Drive it and see rather than chasing your butt through the proverbial hoop If you change so many things at once, you will never know what it was.
The washer being small is not going to cause it as long as it tightened up, to test put a pry bar between the body and shock tower and see if it moves.
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[crankbait09]

[hawk2828]

I just had the very same problem. What I found was the shock rubber had cracked and shrank. The shock would slide back and forth on the metal bushing causing a clunking/banging sound when I would drive over bumps. No matter how tight the bolts were it didn't matter because the bolt metal bushing washer and nut were all still the original dimensions. After I found both rears with the same problem I looked at the front shocks. They weren't as bad but they were getting to be in the same condition so I just changed all four shocks.

[herbie1200]

I had a similar problem, a "clunk" from rear wheel.

Made the simplest test: I temporarily detached the shocks and, after a (slow!) little trip around my house the clunk was no more there.

So the culprit has been 100% identified.

[scottyrocks]

Just to get this possibility out of the way, does the shifter move when you hear the clunk? Does it occur mostly when you're on or off the gas?
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[crankbait09]

[Cusser]

45 years ago, driving to ASU, my VW got a clunk back there. It turned out that a shock absorber lower rubber bushing had slipped out of the bottom of the shock absorber.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[crankbait09]

[57BLITZ]

[crankbait09]

[thomas.]

[crankbait09]

I'll definitely be checking the transmission mounts when engine is removed.
This clunk is definitely loud and big.

[scottyrocks]