Java Green '64 with tree damage.

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Well the weather is wacko today so no drop, but hopefully tomorrow!
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

So, once the engine is out of the car and torn apart - what can I fix on my own as far as any issues that may come up in such an engine filled with such water? I know I may or may not have to have it sent off to be fixed if it's that bad, but suppose there's issues I can home-fix?
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

And it's out! Had to borrow the bigboy jack from my old workplace as my personal jack is smaller (saving up for a big one!) but it's out!

Had mom helping me the whole way. Always good to have help!

The top two 17mm's wanted the bolts to come with, so I had to get under and stop that. The bottom right 17mm had the stud come with it, too, but as the Idiot book says, that's ok! It's not damaged either, just very dirty and made the nut get stuck.

Fast forward and here we are! Not many pictures taken obviously, we were busy! He came out with narry a problem besides those, though. Time to take him apart starting tomorrow!
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[mukluk]

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Well, I decided to get into the spare engine today, as Eiche's main engine is sitting on the floor till we can move the spare. I'm claiming it DOA. It's bad. I don't think there's much I can do for it, in all honesty. Suggestions?

Not sure what the 59 indicates.

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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Rome]

Pistons and cylinders: Junk. Heads: Believe it or not, quite possibly saveable. I recommend cleaning off the gunk from the heads and rocker assemblies with solvent. Then get a fiber bristle brush attachment for a drill, and go to town with the combustion chambers. A brass bristle brush attachment can also work well. Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flung-off debris or bristles. I've worked on at least 2 sets of single-port heads that had similar corrosion in the chambers and they came out remarkably well. Sure, you'll need to replace the exhaust valves as matter of course, and at least lap the valves into the seats. And either chase the spark plug threads or better yet, install fresh threads via a "Time Sert". 2 hours of hands-on cleaning will provide a much better picture of the heads' condition.

Do you have a tool to compress the valve springs so you can remove the keepers, retainers and the valves?

[A-Step-Towards]

Nice progress on this!

I saw some stuff on craigslist during VW related searches, a very solid looking '63 Roller $600, there was/is a '66 beetle for $150 as well, both in Portland area. There is also I think in Salem a guy with 2 40HP blocks and misc heads/pistons for $150.

Keep up the good work!

[KollynnBlackpaw]

[KollynnBlackpaw]

[KollynnBlackpaw]

More progress on the spare engine today. Home sick from work all day, and it's been pouring out, so I continued on the engine rather than clean out the car like I've been meaning to!

Made a bit of a mess here, but got it all cleaned up.

3 and 4 head off! Not awful looking.

Not lookin too bad on this side, that's for sure.

Pistons are crummed up.

3/4 cleaned up.

3/4 cylinders.

1/2 cylinders.

Piston 2 cleaned up better than I thought it looked.

Rods.

Inside bits.
Took off the sump plate. Nasty as all getup.

Thought I had more pictures but that seems it. Some of it's a LOT better than I thought it was. And the engine does turn, even before I took the cylinders off all the way.
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Pruneman99]

Hopefully that sludge saved the case. Check around the sump area for case rot.

[KollynnBlackpaw]

[Corney13]

I have some roof pieces left over from my ragtop graft. They are free to you if you can use them. Just would have to cover shipping from SoCal to you. Let me know.

[KollynnBlackpaw]

So I decided to get into Eiche's original engine today, now that I know what I'm doing. Unfortunately the tin screws were giant jerks and I had to cut 2 or 3 off with a cutoff wheel. The rest I kept in and removed along with the bottom/heat exchanger tins.

Getting into side 3/4.

Not too bad at all! A lot better than I was expecting. Came off easy, too!

Now lets check out 1 and 2.

2 looks about as good as the others!.

WHOA! I think I found why it "started losing power" when they still drove him!

Back of the head shows the wear too, you can see where metal chunks must have gotten stuck and the pistons beat them into the back of the head. Owch!

Damage to cyl1.

Inside block behind 1.

Cylinders. Not sure which is which, photos didn't save their order.

All the pistons look similar to this.

Clutch-area work.

Sump area.

All around a big shocker. Even with the cylinders off the engine won't budge like the other one did after they came off. Going to have to split it tomorrow and see what's gone awry. I'll be picking up that lot of parts tomorrow that someone mentioned, it may be more worthwhile to just take the spare engine's case or one of the ones I'll be picking up. I should be able to complete an engine, however, after I've gotten the parts.
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Parts pickup day! He threw in some other stuff he had and took a 36HP manifold he didn't realize was in there, and lowered the price to 130 without me even asking. Very nice guy, thank you Mark!

Two crankshafts.

Rods.

Conrod set one.

Conrod set two.

Camshaft.

One head,

Two seperate sets of heads.

One set of pistons.

Three frontal tins.

Two manifolds.

Generator stand.

Cylinder tins.

Fuel pump and misc tin.

Two fans.

Two 40HP blocks and two flywheels.

Block one.

Block two.

A good haul I'd say! What can be re-used here? I'd like to try and put together something from spares while saving money and slowly getting parts for the new-parts rebuilt engine.
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[KollynnBlackpaw]

Today I got the pistons and rods off the spare engine - now it turns! Not easily, only with the breaker bar, but it turns smoothly when using the bar. Can't do it by hand.

How do you get the crank pulley off? Using the large screwdriver/30MM breaker bar as the Muir signifies doesn't work for me. I also can't get the large screw off the bottom, the oil something sensor, with the large screwdriver. Those should be the last two things to remove for me before splitting it.
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'71 Shantung Yellow AT/FI Squareback

[Rome]

The large screw at the bottom of the engine is to seal up the oil pressure relief valve mechanism. Take a flat-end chisel, put the tip partly into the screw groove so that half of the tip hangs over the end, and tap gently with a hammer in the counter-clockwise direction. You should see the screw start to move. Then use your largest-blade screwdriver to fully loosen and remove it. You'll have a long spring and a small aluminum cylindrical "cup" inside the hole.

For the crank pulley, you can split the engine case with the pulley still on the crankshaft, then worry about knocking it off later. I suppose you already have the large bolt in the center of the crank pulley removed?

[KollynnBlackpaw]

[Rome]

Crank pulley bolt: Do you have the "Compleat Idiot" VW repair manual? It has a paragraph on how to loosen large bolts using a flat-end chisel and hammer. If you don't have that manual, report back and we can explain the technique.

[KollynnBlackpaw]