Engine lid hinge broken - fixes?

[67 Florida Deluxe]

I searched for fixes but didnt find anything related to this specifically. The hinge itself is intact, but the part of the lid it attaches to is detached. It looks as if it was only attached to the very thin inside skin of the hatch, which would be very apt to bend and shear off if the hinge is binding or siezed (as mine was). Am I missing something? Surely it can't be that flimsy of a design . If anyone has experienced this I am interested in how you made a fix and stiffened it up so as not to repeat the stress shear in the metal.

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-Kent (BaT "daleallen")

OG member of the '67 Posse

A few of my toys, past and present
'56 Oval, '66 KG Conv't, '67 21-Window, '67 Bug, '79 SuperVert, '55 Pre-A Continental

[Culito]

Yep, weak design. Both of mine were broken when I got mine, along with both treasure chest door hinges. The previous redneck had bolted the hinges all the way through.

Get out the welder.
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Copyright CJ Industries, Inc.
'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[scvw]

Here was my fix on my treasure chest doors.

Joey

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58 Coral Red ragtop(Diana's car)
57 PG/SG standard
63 Ruby Red SC
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS


WTB - Sigla popout glass like in my ad.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1667775

[67 Florida Deluxe]

Thanks, Joey!

Can I send you mine to fix??
_________________
-Kent (BaT "daleallen")

OG member of the '67 Posse

A few of my toys, past and present
'56 Oval, '66 KG Conv't, '67 21-Window, '67 Bug, '79 SuperVert, '55 Pre-A Continental

[Eric&Barb]

Best thing to do is to keep the hinges lubed!! While one can beef things up this just moves the stress area outward. Making for a bigger area to work harden and snap from all the flexing. Plus as our buses get older the more rust occurs inside areas.
Take a look at how badly 1964-67 front door lower hinges tend to break the sheet metal around them.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[scvw]

[Stocknazi]

the metal is weak in that area b/c it has no internal stiffining. someone had stick welded the hinge directly to the lid on my 61 and i had to cut out the hinge area, front/back, and replace it with another piece. i used a 76 bay section that actually has an internal thicker piece of metal welded inside for more support. i cut out the area around the hinge and seperated the 2 halves of the bay section so i could hammer flat the outer piece so it would be flat like my split lid is. the only difference in the 2 sections is that the bay piece is a little thicker on the inside directly around the slot for the hinge b/c of the internal stiffining. it's hardly noticible at all; plus it's stronger. on the other side the metal was cracked in the same place where yours looks to be ripped out completly and i just welded it up.
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WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."

Thomas Jefferson

[Stocknazi]

can someone please post the pics that campingbox had posted of his decklid re-pin? i can't find them.

i think size of the pin stock was 5mm?
_________________
WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."

Thomas Jefferson

[campingbox]

[57palm]

just my two cents. yes they are that weak of a design. As far as I can see you are lucky, your early prop mount is still attached to the deck lid and not bent/torn and the chassis mount is also in place. usually these are gone too. Just have to use some ingenuity. I formed a sheet metal doubler for mine, welded on the inside then welded the existing skin to it. Good luck

RM

[Rick]

If you have a welder you can do this. This task was my very first welding job on my bus. I cut and bent a piece of metal to replace all that was broken out, about the same area as yours. Make it a little bigger so you can get good metal to weld too. I welded two metric T-nuts on the back for the threaded part, then welded the piece in. It's perfect. Even I was amazed that I didn't mess it up. As a second option I always wondered if one of the repro deck lid hinge carrier sections could be bought, cut up and welded in place on the decklid. If all the offsets are the same you'd get two "repair sections" per carrier for less than $20. Good luck!

[Stocknazi]

thanks greg

you can also get 2 repair sections from a baywindow trashed decklid
_________________
WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).

"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."

Thomas Jefferson

[ultraracer]

[Eric&Barb]

[Clara]