Solar install suggestions

[JudoJeff]

Will never add solar again.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[kamzcab86]

[0to60in6min]

after a fair amount of $$ spent, my experiences with solar panel are about 50% (or less) than I expected...

on my trips I use shore power whenever I could...

[WestyBob]

No offense to anyone doing it this way but I don't understand why anyone would want to run their solar arrangement through the vehicle fuse panel if that's what is being proposed. It adds an unnecessary level of complexity and increases the odds of fire. To charge a battery run it directly to that battery. If desiring to charge two batteries simultaneously then use a splitter.

My set-up is similar to several on here. Mobile Renogy 100w dual panel with controller on the back. Plug in to aux battery when ready (and engine not running). If there's a fuse it's built-in along that line somewhere. Very simple/stupid

[kamzcab86]

[WestyBob]

[kbeefy]

Agree. Fuses are after the battery in my arrangement.
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86 syncro CHC, NorthWesty subbie 2.5, decoupler, locker, custom interior, 225/75r16 Duratrack's on CLK's, Toyo cabin heater, ARB fridge, 300w Zamp Solar, Gowesty bumpers/skid/rails, Fiama awning

'86 Syncro Westy. Stock for now.

2000 F350 7.3 CC LB 11' Northland Cabover

2006 Subbie OBXT

2002 Tacoma DoubleCab 4x4

1969 Mustang Basket Case 351c/FMX/9

http://kbeefy.blogspot.com/

[Multiman mv]

[Multiman mv]

[Paulbeard]

What I installed:
Panel
Controller
Fuse panel
ACR

I was mindful of JudoJeff's tragedy and chose a charge controller that solarbob on the interwebs recommended. It has a small gap for ventilation when mounted and I improved on that with a set of small nylon washers as standoffs.

The biggest thing I have learned is the importance of good solid grounds. I didn't use the seatbelt bolt, instead making my own with a self-tapping screw and washers. But until I did a really good job of sanding down to bare metal I wasn't getting all of the power I was harvesting.
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Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[physast]

Thanks for all the replies.

I have the blueseas fuse panel where the battery connects directly to the top and bottom ports. So if I decide to run through the fuse panel it would be no different then going directly to the battery. I will have a fuse from the panel to the controller and from the controller to the battery.

I purchased the Renogy Rover 20 amp MPPT charge controller. Probably over kill, but I can use it in other situations and I don't want my van to burn down.

I plan on adding a switch to turn the charger off when solar is not in use. I still have not decided how to do the install. It will depend on where I decide to mount the charger.

- mount behind seat
- mount below back seat
- mount on clothes cabinet

I have all the parts and have tested to make sure the controller and panel are working.
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1967 L633 VW beetle (currently being restored...slowly)
1991 Orly Blue Vanaru 2.5L

[RichBenn]

[jimf909]

[physast]

Done! I installed everything yesterday.

- Installed the rover 20A MPPT behind the driver seat
- installed the gowesty solar hook up box (replaces city water)
- ran wires from the box to the charge controller
- ran wires from the battery to the charge controller
- 20a inline fuse from the solar panel to the charge controller
- 20a fuse from the charge controller to the battery
- cut off switch at the battery for when solar not in use

The rover 20A controller uses 100ma when idle and this was more than I wanted drawing power off the house batteries when not in use.

Right now I am storing the flexible panel between the upstairs bunks. At some point I would like to add a place on the roof that can easily be taken down when needed.

Tested and all works! Thanks for the help.
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1967 L633 VW beetle (currently being restored...slowly)
1991 Orly Blue Vanaru 2.5L

[izzydog]

Now comes the fun part: deciding whether you mount the panel to the van or keep it separate.

I have a 100W flexible panel that I store upstairs like you. My panel is attached to 50 feet of big-arse speaker cable so I can park the van any which way (sometimes you don't get a choice) and deploy the panel at the best location/angle. I ran the aforementioned cable from my under-back-seat battery location, out through the firewall and into the engine compartment and left an Anderson Powerpole connector on the ledge behind the license plate door. That way I can plug in my moveable panel right at the license plate and I didn't have to drill any holes in the body. I also have a 110V charger under my rear seat who's plug also exits at the license plate door which allows me to charge the house battery with an extension cord when I need to.

The last part of the puzzle for me is finding a suitable way of holding up my solar panel when its outside collecting sunlight. I like the idea of some kind of adjustable stand that would clamp the panel and hold it tight as well as allow the stand to be weighted with a log or rock, etc. I'm going to try out a portable artist easel like this one: https://tinyurl.com/ybqgnvxo

It's adjustable like a tripod and clamps the solar panel at the top and bottom. It can be adjusted to keep the panel low to the ground and not tip over in wind. It can also be easily weighted with a strap and a water jug to prevent it from being blown over by stronger wind. Resting a solar panel against a picnic table or your bumper works great if there's no wind. Once the wind picks up, your panel will sail away - been there, done that.

Lots of folks attach their panels to the roof, etc., but why beat up your panel with wind and rain and road grime by attaching it to your roof? You don't need the panel until you camp so it's really not doing you any good on the roof while you are driving around. Less holes in your roof is also a good thing...

[Abscate]

Don’t be buy a single component until you buy, read, reread, and comprehend Don Casey’s treatise on boat wiring.

Chafe relief
Strain relief
Gauging

....Is where most wiring projects are deficient.
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.ssS!

[dobryan]

So for my portable panel I use a step stool as the angled stand for the solar panel. I need the step stool to access the storage box on the roof anyway.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[RichBenn]

[jimf909]

[Abscate]

That’s it. A sailboat fire is like a Vanagon fire that you have to watch while in your seat waiting for the gas Tank to burn. You wire somewhat differently thinking that way. You become aware of every force and place where the wire touches the car.
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.ssS!