1745cc bulld

[Pruneman99]

To start, this is a 1745cc build. Not a 1776, 1915, 2110, or any other size you think I should build. If this really bugs you, too bad. I'm spending my money not yours.

Im building this engine for a open road cruiser. HP is nice, but not the goal per se. Its nice to drive some open hilly roads and not have to downsift as much. This is NOT going to be a high RPM engine. 5k max during normal driving. I don't care if it falls on it's face past that, and it probably will with the carbs I plan to run. It's an upright engine for my '64 project bug. Plan on driving it up the west coast from SoCal to Vancouver.

What I have on hand:

Used type III single relief case just back from the machine shop. 40 over on the mains, first thrust, decked, cam bore just needed touched. Probably would have been fine without, but had them measure and touch it up. All plugs pulled and threaded.

4340 76mm counterweighted crank
85.5 B stroker pistons AA (box said AA, but no marking on the pistons themselves so they might be from someone else but they look well made)
AA 5.5" stroker clearanced I beams. Not really sure if I'm keeping these, or going with something better. After I go through them I'll decide.

Stock heater boxes with a 1 3/8 header. Haven't decided on mufflers yet

Dual PDSIT 32's from a '66? Type III. Larger vents, re-jet.
Steel brazillia? tall intakes
Puma? air cleaners

German SVA distributor to match the carbs, as long as the displacement and vent change doesn't mess with the vacuum signal too much.

Round or square top German fuel pump. I have both, so whatever I feel like using.

Scat 36 hp style fan shroud, German dual port tin. (Still looking for sled tin)

Now, I'm deciding on heads and cam.

For cam I was thinking about a Web 86. Open to suggestions here. I have tons of 1.1 rockers and was not planning ratio rockers. With the tame lifts I don't think it's necessary.

Heads. Maybe some MOFOCO stockers or super stockers or Tim's stage I. Stock valves. I have a brand new set of China specials in the garage now that could be used if there wouldn't be much gain with others.

So what say you?

[Rome]

Interesting combination. IMO the Web 86 might be a bit tame. How about a Web 118, since your driving will be in the upper half of the rpm range with hills and highway. For the long highway drive, I suggest a hide-away muffler for quietness.

Will you install a 4.12:1 transmission for the long highway trips, or keep the '64's 4.38? My '64 Ghia Coupe still has its original 4.38 trans. I installed various later engines from a 1641 single-port with single carb, to a 1776 dual-port with Kadrons. Longest drive was from lower NY to the Detroit area, trying to stay at my favorite cruising speed of 75-80 mph on the highways. Engine was revving at about 4200 - 4500 at those speeds, a tad too high for my liking. By contrast, my Ghia Cabrio has a 4.12:1 final drive transmission, and at those speeds the engine is revving about 4100 rpm which it can do for many hours.

[Pruneman99]

I'm definitely open to transmission suggestions. I drive a '66 with big rear tires, and it's barely good enough to run up the CA freeway. That's with a warmed over 1600..the engine still can pull harder, but I don't want to scream it for hours on end. 3500 rpms at 70mph could be in the acceptance range, give proper cooling, and would not be too loud I'd think. Im hoping to have a bit more pull/gear with the 1745.

Maybe a transmission suggestion too?

As for exhaust, I'm definitely open to suggestions. Quiet is better, but I'd still like a bit of exhaust note. After all this trip is going to be with my wife and she *just* tolerates my VW addiction.

I'll check out the Web 118. From what I can read, the Web cams have gentle ramps, and won't hammer the lifer bores with 1.1 rockers.

[gt1953]

Howdy
My 1745cc has 34000 miles on it. Yep it cruises down the road up the hills also. Great mileage out of the engine plenty of smooth power.
76mm counter weighted crank, 85.5 pistons, stock heads ported and polished, CB 2280 cheater cam, dual single barrel solex, distributor is the SVDA 034 connected to both vacuum posts, heater boxes and header exhaust. Everything that rotated is balanced. Talk about smooth no a single vibration, the smoothest VW engine ever owned by me. Dyno about 65 HP to the rear wheels.
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Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Pruneman99]

[Alstrup]

32 PDSIT carbs like short duration high lift cams and small valves. Tims Super stock heads are nice, and do what they are supposed to.
I´d go for the 2280 cam too along with 8,4/8,5 CR. If you feel that its a little "not enough" in the midrange and upper rpm band you can always swop to 1,25 rockers. The engine will like that.
The 32´s can handle a 26 mm venturi which will help the carbs make the larger than stock displacement engine breathe. The 32´s alos like a stack. 60 to 80 mm works well.

Carry on

T

[Pruneman99]

[Paul.H]

I built a couple of 1745's many moons ago. The main advantages are no machining of case and heads and they retain the full cooling finnage of the 85.5's obviously some hand clearancing is required. I used the Mahle forged piston which had the same pin height as stock but a much shorter skirt which cleared the crankshaft counterweight and they are very light not sure they are still available. I never heard of 85.5 B pistons at that time but they would be better as you can get closer to stock width rather than add the 3.5mm spacers

[[email protected]]

[Pruneman99]

Thanks for chiming in Roy.

I was eyeballing your super street heads but wasn't sure if they would be too much (as in flow, not coin) Remember Im running dual PDSIT 32's but with bigger vents, heater boxes with a 1-3/8 header, and limited cam. If the heads outflow everything else, I'm not doing it any favors. I think port velocity is going to be important with the dual single barrel carbs.

[[email protected]]

[Clatter]

Stoked on this build.

Odd/different mild combos are cool to see.
Looking forward to seeing how it pans out.

Are you going to show some details (pics) as you put it together?

Don't have anything to offer here, except, You Go Brother!
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Pruneman99]

I'm not the best at stopping to take pictures but I'm going to try to make a point to do so for this build just because it is not the "normal" build. That being said, it will take awhile to get it done because I only get a few hours a week to play in tthe garage between a busy work schedule, school, two kids, and gotta keep the wife happy too.

I haven't picked cam/lifters or heads yet, but I do have my case machined, and new crank and rods that can be measured and mocked up.

I did lay the crank in the case just to see if it hit anywhere, but since it's only a 76mm it clears everything no problem. I'm sure there will be a bit of clearancing need for the rods but it probably won't be bad. I didn't have the shop stroker clearance the case because I think it's going to me minimal.

Thanks for the interest! I'll try to keep the thread updated as I make progress

[Pruneman99]

Anyone use these heads and know what CC they come with or would like to speak to the quality?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dual-Port-Cylinder-Head-35-x-32mm-Valves-PAIR-p/500-400.htm

[fl59bug]

I don't have any experience with larger than stock stroke engines, but I would imagine the engine will be torquier than a 1776 due to the crank. I believe too you'll see better gas mileage (although I could be completely wrong) due to the engine not having to work as hard to stay up to speed due to the extra reciprocating mass tending to stay in motion once you get moving.

Happy building!

[Pruneman99]

[Frank Bassman]

Prune man, read my post in the PDSIT thread....

But I figure I'd leave this question here since this is your build thread.


In your case, I think the super street heads would be nice. But Mofoco also has 041.

Are these 39 intake 32 exhaust 041's? How would they compare for you? Roy can probably tell us what the differences are, where they'd be most suited, etc.


Interested in hearing about this!

-Frank

[Clatter]

I'll always vote for a mod with no downside;
Something that doesn't rob Peter to pay Paul.

Bigger stroikes mean shorter piston skirts and shorter piston life.
Big cams idle rough, and are ineffecient at low revs.
Heavy springs waste power, increase friction and wear out seats and guides.
Etc. etc.

Some things, however, don't really have a downside, save the costs in time/money.

Like a good dynamic balance job - no down-side.
Longer life, more power, better mileage, win-win-win, right?

Ported heads are that way, at least in stock valve sizes.
Un-shrouded valves allow for a tighter deck at the same CR,
And can increase flow as much as a porting job when things are small like this.
A careful matchintg of ports to manifolds, and a stock-valve port job can make a significant difference in the power level,
Without any downside. (Except of course costs).
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[FreeBug]

I built a 1745, with stock, ported heads, no step, 1 mm deck, at first with an FK-65 cam , and Kadrons, then , later, following a cheap aluminum pushrod failure, a CB 2228 cam, with Cb 34 PDSITs.

It lost a bit of mid and top end with those changes, but my problem had been with the torque coming on to hard (snow), and lack of chokes. The cam/carb swap helped immensely . After, I think it had an all-around flatter torque curve.

It was a good engine, put out about 78-80 hp from my calcs (no dyno), would just hold 100 m.p.h. flat out, for some time. Eventually, at those speeds, the oil would start climbing, and could only be tamed by slowing down. It could have used an additional oil cooler. But head temps were excellent, 275 ° at most, 225° at the low range, so basically 250° +/- 25°F, nice.

My thinking is that by keeping the ratio of heat absorbing to heat shedding surface areas, the cooling was optimal.

Top rpm in 4th was 5300 rpm, But I have the silly 4.375:1 rear end.

At that rpm, it could maybe use a 40 mm valve, I threw some math at it and iirc the larger intake could have helped with the relatively low-lift cam. With the 2228, i was running cheapo 1.25 (1.18:1 ) and that cam would ultimately want twin dual carbs. that was part of the complications I was seeking to avoid on this "stockish" engine.

One thing I noticed in winter....was the heating was lessened! It wasn't an exhaust temp problem, it was an RPM problem. On country roads, I would pretty consistently find myself in a higher gear than I would have with the old twin-port 1300. Could climb just about anything in 3rd, even hairpins.

Writing about it, I miss that engine... it snapped an old, stock head stud, I retired it, and remembered I had parts for a 2007 .

But it will live again, maybe with a 37-39-40 intake, and I.R. intake, it had some pinging issues which I never narrowed down and believe it might be a problem with fuel distribution, I tried everything I could with spark and fuel.

Good luck with your project, I think you will be very happy.

[andy198712]

What setup was your bug to do 100mph!? Without killing you lol
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