Mustache bar bolt hole threads stripped

[FloridaRunner]

I discovered today that one of the holes in the engine block (where the bolts holding the mustache bar to the engine go) is almost totally stripped of threads. Only about 3 or 4 threads at the bottom are left. There are 3 bolts. This is the right one. The left one has an insert in it so this isn't the first time this has happened. There is also a small crack in the insert and engine block but not all the way to the end. The 3rd (lower hole) seems to be OK. That bolt has a spacer that keeps the bolt from bottoming out. What is the best way to fix this problem. I searched locally but can't find a metric insert, drill bit, or tap. One hardware store told me it was an M12 x 1.75 bolt. Also, what is the proper torque when screwing them down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[busman78]

Originally they would of been 8x1.25, you will need to order a insert kit, I like Time-Sert brand, job can be done with engine in but easier with it out. If the stripped threads are really bad and/or the crack too big you can get an adapter plate that bolts to the oil pump, they are for cases not configured for a bus, which may be your most cost effective way.

[busman78]

Posted twice -

[boogerweld]

I had same issue. I tapped it with next size up SAE thread.

[FloridaRunner]

Is it possible to do both, drill and tap the stripped hole and also use the adapter plate? That way the bolts through the mustache bar would hold the plate on and the bolts to the oil pump would give more support? Would that work?

[FloridaRunner]

OK, I've ordered the engine case adapter that connects over the oil pump but I have another ideal. One hole (the right one) is so stripped I can't even find an insert big enough to work so that is out. Now I'm thinking about putting in two set screws along the side at a 90 degree angle. I could drill the side holes, tap them, screw in the set screws loosely (just enough so the threads of the bolt would catch them) screw the bolt all the way in, and tighten the set screws down to hold the bolt in place. Does anyone think this would work or should I just go with the adapter I ordered?

[TomWesty]

[busman78]

Use the adapter plate, skip the set screws, now depending on which type of cover your pump has you may need to get a flat one, also will need longer studs.

[FloridaRunner]

How do I know if I need a flat adapter plate? I don't think that is the one I ordered already. I'm inserting some photos to show what I'm working with.

[busman78]

Here is one that even comes with the flat oil pump cover at a real wallet breaking price.
http://www.busdepot.com/0091480

[FloridaRunner]

That is the one I ordered but paid $3 more. Also, I found a video on how to install it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0rJ3ckl5Rw Do you agree with this method?

[busdaddy]

That's not really an oil pump cover, it's a spacer to sit in the recess of the existing dished cover, deleting the OG cover makes it fit funny, it needs the added thickness. You may also have to grind some of the lip on the OG cover if it sticks up above the spacer plate, the adaptor has to sit flat on the spacer.
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[FloridaRunner]

OK, I'm still working on getting the adapter plate to connect to the mustache bar. The studs that came with it are too short so I got some longer, all threaded ones. They go way into the block which I think is good (more support). I had to use the flat plate to cover the oil pump instead of the original recessed cover because the bottom of the adapter plate would not reach down far enough so that I could get the bolt through the two halves of the case and so the hole in the adapter plate would line up with the bottom hole of the mustache bar. So far so good but I still have two problems. 1)The holes in the adapter plate are too small for the mustache bar bolts which I think are M12 and the hole is M10. I can drill them out and solve that problem. 2)Because this is the original type 2 engine that has areas where the two top screws for the mustache bar screws screwed in, I'm going to have to remove about a half inch of metal so I can get a nut in there to bolt to or reverse the bolt so it would go through the plate before I attach it to the studs on the oil pump. What is the best way to remove that metal? Should I try to drill it out or use some kind of grinder to remove it? I'll try to get a picture that I can label that might help you better understand what I am working with. The photos I sent before should help some.

[FloridaRunner]

I have finished connecting the mustache bar to the 1600 engine using the adapter plate. I ended up attaching the adapter to the mustache bar first and then connecting it to the engine. In the process I had to saw off part of the old bosses (as indicated in my previous post) that had stripped screw holes in them. I did that with a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. Anyway, I documented the whole process on video. Once I get it all together I'll put it on YouTube. I'll include two photos of the finished "product" here as soon as I can get them uploaded to the photo gallery. Thanks again for all your suggestions and help.

[FloridaRunner]

Did I do a bad thing or do I have another problem? When I was working on the engine/adapter/mustache bar I tipped the engine over on to the flywheel end on several layers of cardboard as can be seen in the photos. Today I tipped the engine back so it is upright. The cardboard is saturated with oil as is the flywheel and, I assume the new clutch plates. I had replaced the main seal prior to starting work on the other end. It was tilted like that for over a month. Is this normal or do I have another problem?

[mikedjames]

Try to see where the oil came out from. If it was the main oil seal and you had the crank O ring in the end nose of the flywheel the oil might not have run over the clutch.

As you say the flywheel is soaked on the outside its most likely your main oil seal has a leak. Up to you to decide whether it is worth having another attempt at putting in a fresh seal while the engine is out.

Hope its not the camshaft oil plug as that may need splitting the case to fix.
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[FloridaRunner]

When I put the new seal in I was very careful to make sure it was started evenly all the way around and then used a short section of 2x4 and a rubber mallet to make sure in went in evenly. Once it was flush with the surface I pushed it in another mm maybe a little less. After I removed the O ring from the flywheel I cleaned out the groove before I but the new one in slightly lubricating it first with a little oil on my fingers. I hate the thought of taking the flywheel off again as was very difficult but I guess it would be better to check now rather than have to pull the engine again later. Is there any chance that having the engine standing on end for so long that the oil was able go seep past the crankshaft and over time accumulate? I would assume that normally, when the engine is upright, the oil level is below the bottom of the crankshaft. Is that a good assumption?

[FloridaRunner]

I removed the clutch and discovered very little oil inside the flywheel and on the clutch plate so I'll be removing the flywheel to check the main seal.

I discovered another issue when I remover the lock on the flywheel. I thought I would be able to turn the flywheel but it would only move slightly. Would it have been possible to put the oil pump studs in too far so that they somehow prevent the crankshaft from turning? I used longer studs when I attached the adapter plate because I thought would provide more strength but if the holes go all the way through the case that could be causing the problem.

[FloridaRunner]

Good news! I replaced the extra long studs I put in the oil pump with shorter ones and now the engine turns freely. I also noticed that no more oil was dripping out of the flywheel area but some had come out of the valve cover to the right of the flywheel. I'm thinking that has something to do with the engine standing on the flywheel end for several weeks. Is that a reasonable assumption?

[Calocedrus]

This seemed like an appropriate thread to ask my question:

I have the engine out to replace a disintegrating intake manifold on my 1969 1600 stock motor. I kept the three mustache bar bolts just a few turns in the case to hold them there as I cleaned the mustache bar...well the engine tipped over while I was away and when I tipped it back rightside up I found that the lower bolt had pulled out some of the threads.

I really don't want to put the adapter plate in, I am wondering if some of the above mentioned tactics might work? I'm not even exactly sure what the metal is that is coming out of it that acts like a spring.

Would a thread chaser work in this situation? The bolt is not bent and it doesn't seem like the case was damaged outside of the little bit of "thread" that came out. The bolt will not go in easily to the case anymore.

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Zack
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