Bostig Conversions - Post modifications here

[MsTaboo]

[jimf909]

[jimf909]

[MsTaboo]

[JudoJeff]

I have the high torque SR0408X starter on my vehicles and love it. Note that the stock OEM starter can turn over the Zetec easily.

I'm providing this information for new folks who just don't know about these things. There are several threads here about them, if you'd like more information.

These are sold by many vendors, but I'd suggest going to the source:
Karl Mullendore
MoreTorque starter adaptors
Truckfridge fridges at the best prices!
www.westyventures.com
541.306.3959

He sells the adapter plate and special plug you need:

The starter can be found in many junkyards for $25-$75, or purchase a remanufactured one through Rock Auto et al, $160-$200.

Here's vehicles that will have this starter:
1997-06 Jetta 1.9L 4cyl (Manual transmission only, not Automatic)
2001-04 Golf 1.9L 4cyl (Manual transmission only)
1998-06 Beetle 1.9L 4cyl (Manual transmission only)
1995-97 Passat & Cabrio 1.9L 4cyl (Manual transmission only)

Note: do not use the Valeo D7RS30, which may have been OEM for some of these models and shows as an interchange, as some have experience fit problems.

Installation is very easy, it will attach on the lower left with the provided bolt, and you file a notch in the upper right corner of the starter for the blue Bostig bolt. That's how the adapter plate goes on. The starter is then attached with the two studs/nuts. It takes a special plug, which you connect with provided crimp connector.

This starter is at least 2X more powerful than the stock one, and is actually fun to use!

Now, GoWesty sells a Chinese high torque starter which I won't recommend. I bought one and it burned up on the first start! (No, it was connected correctly) Cost me $50 to return it, and I still resent having to pay shipping both ways.
POS!

People with automatics should research what they need, or ask Karl. My understanding is you use an automatic adapter with the manual starter.

Edit: June 23, found out about this less expensive, does same job starter. $70/$200 for SR0408x

Complete setup available from Westyventures!
https://www.amazon.com/LActrical-TORQUE-STARTER-TRANSMISSION-WARRANTY/dp/B007ZJ7Z9S
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[JudoJeff]

I posted this is on the Bostig website in days past, but I’m updating it here, where good photos explain some of these tasks. You may want to insert this into the Bostig installation manual.

Tasks to perform BEFORE installing the zetec

In the engine bay:

*Clean, paint, rustproof
*

Install muffler bracket
*

Install tach converter
*

Install the overflow bottle and bracket (Move to passenger side front?)
*

Build airbox. (Modify or stock?)


*Remove the old power steering reservoir bracket


*Clean the ground connections


*Move vacuum line onto the other side of the firewall
*Move power steering reservoir behind passenger side taillight.
*Trim the firewall on passenger side for better access.
*Install the fill tower (Put spacers behind it so cap is easy to take on/off)
*Drill hole for wiring harness
**If you’re removing the insulation above the transmission, now’s the time. I replaced with FatMat

On the zetec:
*Cut off the subcrankcase piece before installing the HCOP
*

Install the HCOP (prior to that, insert dipstick and mark where top fill will be)
(Use Fel-pro gasket OS 30831)
*Install the vacuum inlet
*Replace broken pulleys
*Replace water pump (optional, but inexpensive and easy to do)


*Check cam timing
*

Install the serpentine belt
*

Remove those useless and in the way bolts in front of the timing belt cover



*Check your fuel injectors. (Send out to Mr. Injector for rebuild?)

**IF you're replacing the timing belt, an engine stand gives open access. (Nice but not required) *Replace the crankshaft seal if you’re taking everything apart anyway. [Both the serpentine belt and timing belt replacement is easy with the engine in the van.  But a "dry run" helps in the learning process.]

Even if you disagree with my notes, or have to remove something because it's in the way, this is easier.  i.e. the coolant overflow bracket can be removed, and put back easily, but drilling the holes with the engine installed is a pita.

Any other hints?
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[Guybrush]

[JudoJeff]

Guybrush: I have to ask...in what way is a starter actually fun to use? Smile

It just sounds so cool! Like I stole it off a B-52's engine!
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[Jake de Villiers]

[Guybrush]

[MsTaboo]

Has anyone used these motor mount adaptors and the MB three chamber mounts?
http://www.bostig.com/motor-mount-adapter-kit/
What's the benefit?
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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[JudoJeff]

Mstaboo,

Some folks have NVH issues and these help. Otherwise, waste of your $$$.
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________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[JudoJeff]

New catifold comes with new muffler mounting plates. Thin one you have now, and a wide one that mounts back-to-back with thin one. This allows quick and easy muffler adjustments, or testing new styles of mufflers.

Wonder if it’ll be offered separately?

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________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[jimf909]

[JudoJeff]

RE: my air box insulation...the FatMat peeled on the top, and caused miss readings in the MAF. So don’t install it on the upper part.

Everywhere else it’s been fine.
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________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[jimf909]

[JudoJeff]

I still like the air tube, just so long as the intake end is over the transmission, or some other dry area. I think it is quieter. My first trial failed miserably in a heavy rain, picking up the water off the tire.

Someday I'll pick up another airbox and do other things I've been thinking about.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[Westaru]

For any who might be interested I picked up one of the Bostig Signal Converters and did not end up needing it. Would make someone a deal if they were looking:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2212245

http://www.bostig.com/tachometer-signal-converter/
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1984 'Westaru' Vanagon Westfalia EJ22
@UtahWestfalia on IG

[Reck]

I was thankful TheSamba existed throughout my build. In fact I'm not sure I would have pulled the trigger on a Bostig conversion if I hadn't been able to pore over build threads here. Here's a little something I can contribute back (note my build was RG6, so some things may have changed in the interim).

I did a lot of stuff at the same time as the conversion, so a lot could have gone wrong. I was delighted by the startup when it just caught and ran, and I had only very minor tweaks and adjustments to make. The one issue I did have to work on was NVH; in my '84 Westy the kitchenware and tools were in a sympathetic chorus with the engine.

Looking for contact between engine and lid I found a few things:

1) although I think I followed the manual carefully, as you can see from the image above, the indentation from the oil-cap handle showed that it contacted metal on the heat shield. I also found that one or two of my wire holders had already worked loose. Those wire holders depend on there being some chicken wire under the foam in the right places, or they will start to pull out of the foam. Two of mine had, since there didn't happen to be chicken-wire support in the right places. So, I had a slightly loose heat shield that was also misaligned by 1/2".

2) looking carefully, I also found a few other places where there was evidence the foam was compressed down on a few high points in the engine. I saw traces of the foam on these high points, as well as an indentation in the foam. These high places are circled in the following pic:

The high corner of the airbox was hitting, the flat of the cobra-head was grazing it, and the top panel of the MAF was pressing on it perhaps the hardest, and over its whole area. With the cobra-head, I found I just needed to make sure it was pressed all the way down on the throttle-body throat, and level. The other two areas needed foam carved away. I used a small, fine-tooth, flexible Japanese-style woodworker's saw, but a serrated knife would work. I snipped out chicken-wire where needed.

Then, I needed to refit the heat shield, correcting the alignment. I decided to do something experimental rather than re-use the Bostig method. I can report it's thoroughly tested over several years of hard driving. I used a through-bolt method instead of the wire hangers.

At Ace's open-stock fasteners, I found some hardware I vaguely knew existed, a "binding post", 3/16" by 1" in aluminum. It provided very shallow, flat heads, with no protruding nuts and washers on either side, and a spacing action that meant the foam wasn't being compressed. Here's the hardware:

I needed to take less than 1/8" off the length:

I clamped the heat shield in the corrected position and drilled 3/16 holes in the heat shield, through the foam, and though the fiberglass shell of the lid. I drilled the holes making sure they lined up in the lower valleys of the ribs of the engine lid. I then filled the posts with RTV to ensure the screws wouldn't back out with vibration, and secured them with small star washers and the slotted screw on the top side of the lid:

Here's the end result:

I was concerned the posts might conduct heat, and they do, but I've only seen the effect during heat soak, when I shut down and the heat collects up on the heat shield, and then only on the two screw-posts closest to the top of the manifold. I found some nomex cardstock on Ebay and taped some small squares of it over the bolt heads, down in the valley of the ribs. I don't think it's necessary, but it's peace of mind.

The end result? The excess vibration is gone. The engine is as civilized as the factory would wish, and the plates, forks and spoons are no longer talking to me.
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'84 Westy 2wd, TBD, Bostig RG4 completed 9/16.

[JudoJeff]

Reck,
Nice write up, I like your ideas.

Note that you can hacksaw off the top of the oil fill cover, drops it about 1/2 inch.

If you feel your screws in the lid get too hot, I covered my lid with FatMat for sound deadening. Small pieces over screw heads would insulate them. Or even common duct tape. I don’t like getting burnt unexpectedly.

Some folks are shy about cutting the cobra head, but I trim and lower it quite a bit. Much more than the manual suggests. Just so long as the aircraft clamps fits, it’s fine.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)