1954 beetle poor power what can I do?

[TTJ70]

Hi I have a 1954 beetle I have had it since Jan and before I started to use It I went around wheel to wheel and sorted the brakes and all was ok till I got to the last rear NS had a leaking wheel cylinder . Anyway after replacing that I went to the engine .
The riser pipes had been blocked and the previous owner had attempted to clean them but made a poor job as they were still largely blocked and the metal had been cut and re jointed with copper pipe. Bodged
So I replaced the exhaust and bought a new riser / manifold and now the engine sounds great and smooth. But when approaching hills the car suffers and i have to down shift . I had a beetle 45 years ago exact year and I dont remember it being so dead. I have replaced the points with a new set and timed it to 7.5 deg and it does run nice but has now power. I checked with a timing light and the advance seems to be working although I dont know by how much
It has the 28 carb and it has the VJU 4 BR8 distributer . Im sort of thinking the carb may need a service next as I cant think what else it is . Any ideas ?
The car did have the single pipe exhaust which is right for the year but I like the twin pipes look and the valance had the twin cut outs anyway but the previous owner just filled them in another bodge
Any help to improve it or try something else appreciated

[slalombuggy]

Do a compression test and a leakdown test and see what the condition of the engine is in. Make sure all your tuneup parts and adjustments are in good order. You only had 36hp to start

brad

[fl59bug]

I rebuilt my 40hp and just like your 36 it also ran smooth but had no power. Compression numbers seemed okay, like 115- 125 on all cylinders. Timing was spot on and I even tried a rebuilt 28 pict carb from volksbitz. However, I didn't have the heads rebuilt, choosing only to replace valves, springs and retainers but leaving the guides alone.

Nothing I tried worked until I had the heads properly rebuilt with new guides and a .010 flycut. Muddling the results somewhat was the fact that at the same time I also yanked the 77mm pistons and cylinders and replaced them with an 83mm set. However, the 77 and 83s were brand new AA so I have no reason not to believe having the heads rebuilt helped in no small part. Needless to say my engine's top-end was my problem all the long.

Do try the compression test to see what numbers you're making. One or more cylinders could be low and/or the heads could be leaking through the guides like mine was.

[tasb]

If I'm reading your post right the distributor is advancing but your not sure how much advance it has. You need to determine that you are getting close to 32 degrees of advance all in. If you haven't verified that your points gap is correct at between 42-48 degrees for brand new points you will also need to do that. Both of these checks will help diagnose an engine that is bogging.
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1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[TTJ70]

Hi ok I will try a compression tester but I will clean the carb first
thanks for your help

[ZENVWDRIVER]

I had a $50 40 horse in my 1960 single cab... by and by over a few years, it did not smoke, but top speed was only 35 mph and so, I drove it that way, not exceeding 35 mph for another year.
Then, I acquired a 1964 1500 engine (in 1999) and installed it... still runs strong.
Am slowly rebuilding the old 40 horse as a backup... someday.
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8/50, gray 11A Beetle
6/52, pastel green 11C - SOLD
11/4/52, black Zwitter - SOLD to my little bro.
1954 Porsche, pre A, with VW 36 horse- SOLD
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2/55 Iceland green Beetle, on a 1965 pan
3/55 113 Beetle, stratos silver
1955 Messerschmitt KR175 - SOLD, sadly
1960 single cab
1962 SO33, with SO 42 interior
9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
'02 WestFORDia E-150, GAVE TO OUR SON

All super-heroes, wear a MASK

[TTJ70]

Hi very interesting story . Mines ok on the flat but when I get near an incline the speed drops and I have to shift down. Trouble is I live in Yorkshire known for its hills and indeed the Tour De Yorkshire is on my house road very interesting the bikes will probably make more on the hills than my VW Ha Ha
Well first I will check the compression and then I will strip the carb only if its for piece of mind.
Having had a good one I am struggling to see why this is so different to my old one I just hope that I find something thats simple to resolve as I dont fancy stripping the engine just yet
Thanks for your comments

[txoval]

How steep are the hills? Not uncommon to downshift with a 36hp engine. Small hills shouldn’t be a problem though...

54 rear apron did not have cutouts in the rear apron and there are dual tip exhaust systems made that fit below the stock apron (Vintage Speed makes them).

What’s the top speed on flat ground? In stock form, should be around 68-70

I could send you a 30-pict carb if you’d like...will fit your manifold just fine and provides a little more power

[TTJ70]

Hi I have not yet driven it flat out yet on a flat road but I guess it would go to mid 60's easy I suppose
Im currently today stripping the carb and rebuilding it as its only done 500 miles in the last 5 years if that . Its only been driven to shows and even one one
But note this is not in my time . I want to enjoy riding it NOT sat at a show as such as nice as that maybe
I will let you know when I have done the comp test and I have cleaned the carb to see if I find any improvement
Thanks for the offer of the carb which I might take you up one
regards Ray

[Kjell Roar]

Its hard to know whats wrong, valve clearance is ok I presume (loose 0.10 mm).
My oval with 30/36hp normally do up to 75mph without big problems.
Uphill is worse, but it is strong on 3rd around 45-55mph.

I set the ignition 6-8 degrees (even 10 is ok) more than 7,5 degress, that is no problem on todays fuel, and make it run better. Check if you get full trottle in the carb, sometimes the wire is not adjusted right. And check if the ax pump squirts. Also have good experience with STP injection cleaner in the fuel in case of clogged thin lines in the carb.

A picture of my oval on a good day (kmh):

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My car, Aug. 4th, 1955 / an early 56: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=610438

[VolkzBitz]

Its because you live in Yorkshire! Go live in Lincolnshire! Much flatter
Yes, Yorkshire is very hilly, I lived in Sheffield, driving up them in my 1600 Bus was bad enough!
Whilst you have the carb of, check the throttle shaft bushings for wear, they are probably worn.
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Der Vergaser Meister

[0nebadbug]

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[EVfun]

Check for carb icing. It can cut your power back, especially on damp days.
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[TTJ70]

Hi thanks for your comments
So here I am now
new coil on
Took off electronic ignition that was on and back to points
set 7.5 deg
New exhaust twin pipe
new inlet manifold riser was block on the one I had
Rebuilt carb from USA - very nice !
Its a little better with the carb on now
I took the vacuum off and blocked it off and tested and was suprised that it ran smoother and the output was no better no worse ?
I get a backfire when tramming up an hill ? Not major but several little bangs ?
Any ideas
regards Ray

[fl59bug]

On the back fire/pop I'd suspect the fuel/spark volume and timing. Could be a fuel starvation issue especially if you've not had the fuel pump rebuilt lately.

That being said have you checked your fuel pressure at idle and at say, 2500rpm? Also, you might double check your timing but I recommend you do it static ie with car turned off and using test light, not with the engine running and a strobe light.

I'm curious - where did you locate the new intake riser? Here in the states 36hp manifolds are NLA new. I've got a nasty blockage in the right heat riser but am living with it since the engine is only floor running at present and not installed in the car. I imagine with clear intake risers your car may run better than mine but of course I can't prove it.

[motofly196]

[VolkzBitz]

Does the re-built carburetor have new throttle shaft bushings? An air leak can cause a backfire.
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Quality VW Solex carburetor restoration
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Der Vergaser Meister

[Kjell Roar]

My beetle ran bad when the fuel tap rubber swelled and restricted the fuel. Well known problem back in the days.
_________________
I got a historic car, every scratch got a history...

My car, Aug. 4th, 1955 / an early 56: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=610438