Split beetle accessory brake light and flasher wiring challenge

[nlorntson]

I hooked up the old electronics just to be sure the neon portion was still working. It's pretty cool!


Link


My plan is to mock up all the components together and then figure out where I want to mount everything.

The flashers I'm using have a tone when they flash so hopefully the owner will not be one of "those" split owners that drive around with the semaphore out for miles

[johnshenry]

[sled]

[johnshenry]

[sled]

[Grant Reiling]

[René R.]

A suggestion for the warning lights in the dash -- change to LED bulbs. Those suckers are bright! They're hard to miss.
_________________
Gone but not forgotten: 1950 Hoffman split (restored in 1966) - another 1950 Hoffman split (restored in 1996)

[nlorntson]

So I've been playing around with this set up. I've got it wired up as shown

But it doesn't work.

I can connect 6V directly to the 6V to 12V step up and the neon works on both sides.

I can add a flasher inline on the + side and then into the step up, and it flashes (albeit way too fast so I need to figure out a different flasher).

As soon as I put the 3-->2 converter between the flasher and the step up, I get nothing at the neon. I actually get nothing through the converter.

I have all the grounds connected to the - side of the power input.

I'm using a bench power supply so I can set the incoming voltage to 6V

I was expecting that power in on one side of the converter should show power out on the same wire on the other side, but nothing. I checked OhMs through the converter and also get nothing. I compared these results to one working on a friends car and they are the same so the converter is OK, I just don't have something connected properly

I have not connected both sides and the brake at the same time. Maybe I need to?

I have not tried to input + on the brake circuit

What am I missing here? How does the converter work so power goes out to a light?

[busdaddy]

Unless I'm missing something it looks like you are attempting to power a whole lotta 12v stuff with 6 v, the tail light converter will likely need 12v.
You may have to move the 6-12v converters to the wires between the semaphores and the flashers (if those are 12v flashers). The fast flash might be due to the load from the converters etc.. they are meant for 2 bulbs, you might need heavy duty flashers for use with trailers as well.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[nlorntson]

[caleb0101]

[nlorntson]

I made some progress on this project. I've got two problems to solve.

The first is the trailer converter to get my neon lights working as both brake and turns. The second is the step up and neon power supply appear to need a minimum of 4.4V input to be able to light the neon.

Upstream from that is a trailer converter that seems to need some amount of resistance from an incandescent bulb on the car side in order to work and send the flasher signal through to the trailer side (power step up).

If I connect incandescent bulbs to emulate trailer lights rather than the step up and neon power supply, I get flashing lights.

So I think what my problem is insufficient current in the right places.

From what I read there are trailer converters that work with LED lights maybe that would help?

Another idea might be to move the step up further upstream.

EDIT: I think that is what Caleb010 is suggesting so I'll try that next.

[Splitdog]

Main question: Why?

Also, why not go 12 volt?
_________________
CH³NO²

Z = z² + C

Der Blitzkrieg Kafers

#notacallooker

[nlorntson]

[EVfun]

Is this split going to have front turn signals?

This looks like a situation where 2 relays would do the job better than a trailer converter. The relay coil would be operated by the dash semephore switch (1 left, 1 right) along with the semephores. The normally closed contacts would be connected to the brake lights. The normally open contacts would be connected to a flasher. The switching contacts would be connected to the neon transformers.

Scew 12 volts, I've never bothered to convert an old Bug and with modern electronics the reasons to do so are less than ever.
_________________

[nlorntson]

[Splitdog]

[EVfun]

To each their own, but let me explain...

With the popularity of USB powered devices there is a lot of stuff that operates on just 5 volts, often at 1 amp or less. Many bluetooth devices are just 3.3 volt inside. LEDS use a lot less current than incandescent bulbs, though you may have to roll your own. There are modern electronics available, and many of them where designed to run on small, low voltage, rechargeable batteries!
_________________

[Splitdog]

That is true. I always like to be as close to stock as possible. (even though I have a lowered, turbocharged split). Lol. But 12 volting gives a lot of advantages and still appears stock. On vintage cars LED's have a look that doesn't look vintage. Like 17" wheels, modern sound systems, etc. But again, to each their own. I have seen a lot of modification in my day. At some point, I just jump in my 7 series and go to Vegas. With air, bluetooth, at 90 mph, etc.
_________________
CH³NO²

Z = z² + C

Der Blitzkrieg Kafers

#notacallooker

[busdaddy]