My first VW; 1973 Super Beetle

[spectre1995]

Hey everyone, I'm happy to say I've acquired my first VW Bug. I've wanted one since I was a little kid (I'm 23 now) and was finally able to locate one at an exceptional price. I paid $650 for this Super Beetle that's been sitting for a bit, but is largely intact. It's going to be a very fun and rewarding restoration project that will eventually be my daily driver.

I'm an auto tech student at my local community college, right in the middle of restoring a 1969 Mercury Cougar in which I'm doing a full engine rebuild as a part of the course curriculum.

I've been working on getting the bug to turn over, but have so far been unsuccessful. Yesterday I had a fuel filter get clogged, causing a line to back up and burst. I'm fully aware of VW's having the tendency to become a fireball on wheels, so I'm replacing all the rubber fuel line and filters just to be safe. I'm lucky to have a VW parts store in my vicinity (IPC Volkswagen Parts) and bought a five foot length of cloth braid covered fuel line.

I had a few questions;

1) I noticed on my bug, there are two fuel lines. One underneath (that caused the line to burst), and one in the engine compartment. I've also seen many bugs that do not have fuel filters in the engine compartment, and have a direct line from the outbound port on the fuel pump, straight to the carburetor. What is the "proper" setup for fuel lines / filters? Do I have a filter upstream (from the tank to the pump) or downstream (from the pump to the carburetor)? Attached are two photos, one showing the leak coming from the upstream filter, and the other showing the filter inside the engine compartment.

2) I've read that the cloth braided line has a high failure rate. Is this true? If so, what's the best type of fuel line to use? I've read that typical neoprene rubber generally isn't the best, but the stainless steel braided stuff is pretty good.

3) In terms of performance modifications, what are my options? I'm largely familiar with V8 OHV engines, but VW engines are an entirely new concept for me. I'm looking to do something that's sporty without going too overboard, and still maintains fuel efficiency.

Thank you all in advance!

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Congrats on the Bug!

A lot of people say not to have the filter in the engine bay. It's your bug, know your abilities and maintenance habits.

if you are interested in a lively debate about the filter location see this thread:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=136647

Replacing all the rubber lines is a must. Get fuel line clamps at each and every junction. Preferably not the 'worm gear' or 'screw' hose clamps.

You would do well to use these instead: (all essentially the same 'fuel injection' style clamps, just different vendors)
https://www.jbugs.com/product/311133515.html
https://www.belmetric.com/high-pressure-screw-clamps-c-15_143/?zenid=cq6omrj7qg6le4bhucginvnt12

Check out the 'stickies' link at the top of the forum page for FAQs and information.


Re: performance upgrades:

Get it running/driving in stock form. You'd be surprised how well a stock engine can run if it is completed with proper/stock parts.

Old German parts are better than "new" from china

To get an idea of what stock engine bays looks like check out this thread:
(it'll also show you what not to do)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=368492
Good luck and don't be shy to ask questions!
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[spectre1995]

The guy at IPC said I shouldn't use hose clamps since those hoses go on pretty tight. Is it a matter of preference, or just an added bit of safety?

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[Zundfolge1432]

Came from factory with a clamp didn’t it.

[cbeck]

Or you could go with what you know But it's only original once.

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My cut in half and rebuild thread
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647779

[Tim Donahoe]

Your ‘73 May have a fuel filter under the fuel tank. Check to be sure. Also, when changing out all your rubber hoses, replace the one from the tank to the metal tunnel line. It has probably never been done. Removal of the tank is necessary for this on Super Beetles. You’ll probably have to remove the tank to replace your filler hose and lines going to your expansion chamber, anyway. If not replaced previously, you’ll smell a lot of raw fuel coming into the cabin.

I use clamps on ALL junctions. I guess your guy at the parts place remembers when German Braided hose was manufactured much better than today’s offerings. And if you’re going to have a fuel filter in the engine compartment, be sure to have clamps on that hose, and safety-wire the carburetor-inlet clamp to the carburetor (a search will show how to do this). That inlet line has pressure from the fuel pump, unlike all the other fittings that only have gravity pressure. But I have my fuel filter between the metal line coming from the back of the tunnel to the metal line that goes into your engine compartment. This is located on the left side of the transmission. Mount the filter so that it will not contact the cv joint, heat exchanger, or heat exchanger linkage.

Very important: be sure to install a rubber grommet on your firewall, so that the firewall tin doesn’t cut into your metal fuel line. Not doing so is a major cause of VW engine fires.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[sshulk]

I’m not entirely sure if they came with clamps from the factory. I just redid all the lines on my 73 super. I used clamps all in the engine bay. And where the lines go from the the tank to chassis. And from chassis to engine bay. I would say it doesn’t hurt to use them but make sure they are on over the connection point and pinching the line. Also no need to go crazy on them. A nice snug fit is good.
I second getting it running first. I made the mistake of doing some mods before it acually worked and months later it still sat unworking.
I run my fuel filter in the rear near right before the engine bay.
Also used German parts are great just make sure you’re not buying somebody’s old junk.
If I were you if first do a tuneup. I’d check and replace the plugs if needed. Check points gap. Etc etc.
If you don’t have a manual I’d recommend getting one. Has lots of information on how to do lots of things.
Try to make a list of all the things you need in the order you want them done. This not only helps you stay organized and keeps you updated on your progress but it helps you focus on one thing at a time and not getting caught up buying parts you won’t use for 10 years. @my dad. Lol.

Also people on the Samba are great. I have had so many questions and the answers and users here are great. Good luck with the bug!!
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17 years old
German Looker in the Making
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Filthy Buggers

[vwoldbug]

I would look down in the fuel tank also for rust and sediment .

[FeelthySanchez]

¡Bienvenido a la Samba!
Life as ya once knew it has just changed, so welcome to & enjoy the sickness.
So far, she looks like a fine starter vehicle w/ untouched engine. The few external body wounds I see are pretty typical (& some call that "character". I prefer "deductible").
These lil' monsters aren't hard to wrench-upon, just real different .
Thus, some odd/unusual new tools will soon find a home in your rollaway & you will also soon be speaking some colorful language(s). Nature of the beast.
They respond very well to some minor tuning & performance tweaks, but do have some odd (OK, annoying) quirks as well. Ready to learn?
Their braided fuel line is 1 of the more common perishable items that needs a constant eye for attention/safety/scrutiny. There are a few others as well.

Probably the most upbeat advice to offer right now is that replacement & performance parts for these have never been more plentiful & cheap, but supply channels do now include companies located inside that dodgy asian giant that we all "tolerate", somehow. We'll survive.
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[Buggeee]

You've got a nice complete stock Super Duper. I'd go bone stock and use as much Original German (OG) parts as possible.

The peeps who really know these cars can start swapping this or that in a quest for performance but these bugs are quirky. Change this, and it affects that, which influences the other thing. Soon its buggy and harder to trace down whats up.

You will be amazed at all the engineering that goes into the fine details of what looks like a very simplistic operation. Also, year to year little things were changed. If you've got a Frankenstein bug like mine you can go ahead and bolt stuff from various models together and often get it to function somehow. That can be a fun part of buggin' when you are piecing together something from the trash heaps. But if you mix and match, it's never going to be that smooth sewing machine that the Germans pumped out of a factory as one complete cohesive engineered obsessive compulsively created single-unit. Each model is a work of art unto itself rolling off the assembly line. You have a chance to experience that with your stocker.

Also, I like to tell my kids that I'm a rebel because I do NOT have any tatoos. These days that is unique. IMHO a bone stock bug is now the unique bug.

The super you've got there is the culmination of decades and decades of refinement. It has the biggest displacement, nicest head ports, most efficient cooling system, highest horsepower, most effective oil moving and cooling systems of the stock bugs, generally speaking, and also has the most refined front suspension on a bug. In stock form it will have spirit and handle great... for a bug.

Make room for another one by the way. They breed like rabbits.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Frodge]

I think that filter is mounted in one of the worst spots I’ve seen. Please move it.

[Q-Dog]

[wcfvw69]

[adam78]

Hey man! Welcome to the club! I also scored myself a cheap junkyard bug, although mine ran fine, the body was a rusty mess. I would have rather been in your spot than mine lol. But when it comes to these cars and 'performance' you'll see that when running well, they are plenty fast. I dont mean FAST, but are great for daily driving and keeping up with traffic. I have never had an issue, and I came from muscle cars and supercharged Jaguars. These are a different kind of fun, so get it running right first, if then you want to build it up, you'll know enough on how to do it correctly.
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1975 Beetle 1600dp 4spd Daily Driver.
1972 Westy 1600 Type IV 4spd project/ soon to be driver.