Won't restart again after rebuild

[stwesty]

My engine won't start after a partial rebuild (replaced heads). I've done the points, static timing, and adjusted the valves.

I managed to get it started after a first static timing and it ran for 7 minutes at very high RPMs. It started to sputter a couple of times so I gave it a bit of gas and it continued until the 7ish minute mark.

After that I wasn't able to get it to start so I learned a bit more about the timing for my engine and set it properly (I was using the wrong marker for my first try).

I was then able to get it going for another 10-20 seconds or so and it sounded great but then with a single sputter it died.

I checked everything and realized my accelerator cable was caught up on a fuel line which explains the extremely high idle on the 7 minute run.

I removed the obstruction from the accelerator cable and now I can't get it to start at all. It turns over and every handful of seconds I get a single pop but that is it.

I checked the fuel pressure on my aftermarket Bugpack electric pump and is fine. I tried spraying some starting fluid across the open carbs but that didn't seem to have an effect. I also checked the two cutoff solenoids for the carbs, they are clicking when connecting/disconnecting.

What can I check next in the fuel distribution chain to see where things are failing? The fact that it ran twice means the timing is at least statically fine. I had 20L in the tank so I can't imagine 7 minutes of running drained it.
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[busdaddy]

Got a dwell meter or timing light?, sounds like no spark or corroded points.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[stwesty]

I measured the dwell and it was initially 60 so I adjusted it. I just bought a timing light so I wasn't able to test it during that 7 minute run. But the fact that it did run at some point and sounded decent means at least is reasonably timed statically, no?

Edit: unless of course something bumped or altered after my sucessfull-ish run I gess
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[Danwvw]

Probably just flooded, you may need to change the spark-plugs, they fowl really easy on new engines when they are having difficulties like this.
I was having trouble on my 1641cc on the test bench after it sat for 2 weeks without being started. Turned out I was not pumping the gas enough on my dual Zenith 32 carbs. Do the accelerator pump jets squirt gas?
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[stwesty]

How can I tell if the accelerator pumps squirt gas? Don't assume I know anything about carbs at this point... been doing a ton of reading, but it is one of the last areas of my bus I've done nothing with up until this point since they were fine before my rebuild.
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[Danwvw]

I was just looking at your pictures and it looks like you have the dual Solex's. But all carburated engines squirt gas inside the throat of the carb. You would remove the air cleaner and with the engine not running use a mirror and look or perhaps listen through a hose and pump the throttle to see if you can hear it squirt but really this was working before so it's probably something else. But it is a good way to know you are getting fuel.
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Wasted youth]

Re-examine your points. Truly ensure that the gap is correct, the nylon block didn’t break off or the set screw did not loosen.

Don’t use starting fluid. Just get a soup can, crimp a fold on one edge to form a v shaped spout, and just use that to dribble a little gas. A LITTLE gas.

Make sure you are still getting spark. Shit happens.

[Tcash]

If it did not fire on starting fluid it is not a fuel or carb problem.

Check your spark, it should be a nice blue or white arc. Should not be orange.
Cranks Won't Start Test

Triple check that your spark plug wires are on right. Ask me how I know?

Good luck
Tcash

[stwesty]

I spot checked two spark plugs and both are getting bright white/blue sparks. I tried putting a couple of table spoons of gas down the open carbs and then starting it but still nothing. Am I supposed to put it down while it is running?
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[Tcash]

Am I supposed to put it down while it is running?
No

Try cleaning the plugs. As previously posted.

Good luck
Tcash

[stwesty]

Re-did the points, measured the dwell, did the static timing again, pulled all four spark plugs and cleaned them and re-tried. This is what it sounded like:


Link


It sounded the same after trying the dribble of gas again too. Time to pull the carbs I guess?
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[Tcash]

It's popping. It ran before so it is not that far off.
Sounds like your timing is off.
Spark plug wires on wrong or static timing off.
Set the timing to 5* after TDC with the dist. rotor pointing to #1.

and follow video

Link

Or you can have someone crank it while you turn the distributor.

Double check your valves.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3MgWSXTwWQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isYX7b5r5Ng

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ozht-_iu3Ew

Good luck
Tcash

[stwesty]

Oh, now I'm definitely confused. 5 degrees AFTER TDC? I set it to 7.5 BTDC. I used the zero marker on the fan scale as zero TDC rather than the engine seam.

I have a 009 distributor, a vanagon engine block, a '74 fan shroud (only one marking on the actual fan), and it is an automatic. Just in case any of that matters.

Edit: the first time it ran for 7 mins I had been using the engine seam as the marker and had set it to 0 TDC.
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[stwesty]

Oh I see so 5 degrees after TDC is for AW engine code automatics (mine is a CV code).
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[Wildthings]

I am going to guess that you didn't get the dog on the bottom of the distributor shaft properly aligned with the slot in the dizzy drive prior to timing your engine and that eventually your engine corrected this omission and that now your timing is way off.

7.5° BTDC is the correct static timing for your engine no matter what the factory dynamic timing spec is.

Loosen the clamp around the bottom of your distributor and try to twist the rotor while pushing down on the distributor body as you turn back and forth slightly. Now check your static timing again.

[orwell84]

I believe the 009 has the mark on the distributor body for cylinder #1 in a different place than stock. It's also easy to not index the drive gear properly. You have to go by where the rotor is pointing when #1 is at TDC ready to fire and adjust plug wires accordingly. This happens a lot. Ask me how I know.

[Tcash]

Finding TDC #1/ Installing Drive Gear and Dist.

[stwesty]

Yeah, the marking on the 009 threw me off for a while. Mine barely has a hairline scratch as the marking and it was incorrect to boot.

I must have installed the drive gear incorrectly. I thought I measured the 12 degrees and had the segment correct, but something must be off since at #1 TDC (referenced by the valves) my rotor points roughly to the #4 cylinder.

What is the relationship between the engine type, the distributor type, and the angle and segment position of the distributor driveshaft?

I thought the purpose of getting the 12 degrees right was just to ensure the rotor lines up with the mark in the distributor for later convenience of finding #1 TDC without having to remove the valve covers.

If it is placed in at the wrong angle, you can still find #1 TDC via the valves, change your spark plug wires for 1-4-3-2, rotate the distributor while checking a timing lamp, adjust for 7.5 BTDC, the fine tune a bit with the static timing lamp, and away you go. Correct?

At this point I'm going to try the re-seating suggestion above and if that doesn't work pull out the distributor rotor and re-position it to 12 degrees and do the sequence all over again.
_________________
1974 Westfalia, automatic, dual-carb

[Wildthings]

The 12° position just guarantees that the vacuum can and condenser will not hit anything when you are turning the distributor body to time the engine, nothing more.

[curtp07]