Overheating issues

[mikedjames]

And when you have finished roasting it, take a look at that old-school fabric covered rubber fuel line - it goes hard when it gets hot, cracks and leaks.
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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[VW_Jimbo]

There is a lot wrong with the installation of the engine. A lot! However, the one case bolt (12mm) that I see, looks like it has pulled out of the case. It is a good inch past the nut. Makes me wonder if the case has seen much better days!

You may be pouring good money into a bad engine, be careful. I have seen many bad engines through the years in which people continue to throw dollar bills at them to no final end. You may want to cut your losses and get a rebuilt engine and start from a good foundation.

Also, the sled tins missing next to the J tubes is alot of heat. Your engine is overheating everytime you run it. J tubes demand industrial tins to help divert the hot air around the bottom of the heads and out the back of the car. The industrial tins add to this path, by not allowing the heat from the exhaust tubes to enter into that cooler air stream. I ran IR temp gun numbers on my engine when I was running it with a stock exhaust and then installed a header system. I left the tins off and took measurements. I then installed the industrial tins and retook measurements. Made a difference of almost 40 degrees at the cylinder head near the valve covers!

Good luck and choose how you spend your money wisely!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Zed999]

What does the other end of the (brake?) spring attach to?

[Cusser]

Humor me, take a flashlight and look upwards under the engine; look between the two inner pushrod tubes on each side, see if the cylinder air deflector tins are there on both sides, between the cylinders and the pushrod tubes https://www.jbugs.com/product/311119317A.html

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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[PumaVW79]

How do you know the engine is overheating? Do you have an oil temp gauge or are measuring temps in another way?

[derfes]

[derfes]

[derfes]

[derfes]

Hi VW fans,

After 2 weeks, I finally got the 70 bug running. I did a compression test 1=130, 2=120, 3=125, 4=130, replaced the fan belt with a 11.3x911, changed the fuel to 93 octane, added the sled tins and j-tubes industrial tins missing, set the timing with a timing light to 3000 rpms 30 and idle would fall on TDC. I did find a leak at the manifold at the cylinder head 1 and 2. Before I would do mi timing with a test light on 7.5 or 10 and it would run good, but overheated after 20 minutes of driving it would lose all power and would be hard to start again, when turning off the engine I can hear a tic tic noise every time. Doing the timing with the timing light is the way to go with the 009.

The big mystery was mi faulty temp gauge it would give me wrong numbers always 280-300, when in reality it was 180-200, my neighbor let me barrow a Craftsman temp gun and I did a temp test after driving it 2 hours today, it never lost power and the engine would start right away, never heard that tic tic noise when turning off the engine. The engine was not as hot as before. My oil temp light still flickers at idle but goes away when running. Attach my temp numbers, hope I’m in the ok temp range. I really felt my VW running great today, to bad my wife called me to get home. If not I would still be driving the bug.

Temp:
Heads: 180 f
Engine Case: 180 f to 200 f
Fuel Pump: 135 f
Coil: 150 f
Generator: 135 f

All the information and help provided by all you was great, I really appreciate it.

[Max Welton]

[derfes]

[Max Welton]

290 sounds like a perfectly reasonable head temp under zero load.

Max
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1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[derfes]

[derfes]

Hi VW family,

Its been a while on this post, but I think I should close this out and help others, found out I had the wrong pressure relief valve on my 1500 single port, I replaced the grooved plunger and the spring, I believe it was an after market one ,changed it with a solid plunger with an original spring, this help so much, I also changed the main jet from a 120 to a 127.5 it runs way better. Thanks to all that help me out on this post, the overheating finally is gone for good.

Derf

[Balmoral1958]

Always good to see people say thanks for the help!!
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2x 1974 Karmann Ghia Coup
1984 Citroen 2CV
1956 Citroen 2CV
!984 911 Targa

[Multi69s]

If you are happy with it great, I'm just not a big fan of point and shoot temp guns. Now when we talk about in car gauges, we usually describe their reading as a trend, rather than an absolute. However, there is one gauge that we can get a very accurate reading with if we take the time to do a setup. That is the oil temp gauge. If you remember back to science class, water boils at 212 degrees F, at sea level. Every time I setup a car change a gauge, etc., I do this.

I get an ELECTRIC hot plate and a pan with water under the engine. I then take a semi stiff piece of wire, twist it tightly around the sender's threads, then the other end goes under a bolt / screw of the engine. This grounds the sender as if was screwed into the case. I then connect the sender wire from the gauge to the sender, turn on the hot plate and ignition switch and wait.

When the water starts to boil (212 degrees F) I look at my gauge and see what it reads. This is a real and correct reading (212), so if my gauge is in the 220 region, I know that it is fairly accurate. However, if it way high, or low, I know that either the gauge, sending unit or even wiring has an issue.
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69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

[derfes]