Stuck, help needed

[Bob Brugge]

Hi guys.
I got my motor all put together and installed. I didn't change the stud on the oil cooler. Now it leaks everywhere.
Pulled the engine back out and tore off the fan shroud It was a sp engine and now it is a dp engine.
There is a stud that comes out of the case and holds down the side of the oil cooler. The sp one is shorter than the dp one. I have been trying the double nut method to remove it but all it does is pull the threads out of the top nut. Got some grade 8 nuts and same same.
So now I am stuck with a stud that is too short and no way to get it out. It is a universal case, and the case I have on my floor is the same type of universal case. The stud came out of it just fine.
I have thought about trying heat and vice grips, if that doesn't work, then I am really stuck. Any ideas?
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[67rustavenger]

Heat and vice grips for starters.
If that fails. Grind the stud flush with the case. Center punch it accurately. Then drill it out. Start with a pilot hole and slowly work up in bit sizes until you can pick at the threaded part left over in the case. Be very careful not to drill through the top of the case.

It's likely had red locktite applied to the threads and it's good and stuck.

Good Luck.
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[jpaull]

Why did it leak?

[veeweeman]

[jason]

He only used 2 of the three studs.

[mcmscott]

[Bob Brugge]

The bastard still leaks oil...
Got the stud out, used heat and the double nut method.
Can't get it to start but it does leak.
Used red grease on the paper gasket at the cylinder base, hoped it would seal. As soon as my arm and hand heal, I am going to have to tear it out and take it back down. Barring anything real dumb, like a loose head stud or something, is there anyplace else I should be looking for leakage?
First build, thanks in advance.
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[boxkiteflyer]

There is a tool that grips studs allowing you to remove them. I have a set of three in different sizes. The tool has fingers that grip around the stud. The fingers operate as mini-cams and get tighter and tighter as you turn the wrench. There are also single cam extractors that work the same but I haven't used those. I'm not talking 'Easy Out' stud extractors... too much work drilling and everything. The stud WILL come out or it will break using the cam function tool. Then you can center punch, drill, etc...

[veeweeman]

Are your cylinders leaking?
It could be the oil cooler itself, did you pressure check it yet?. ..there is information about doing this test on Samba.
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[67rustavenger]

[Pruneman99]

I would definitely remove the paper gaskets as said above. But before removing the engine, pull off the fan shroud and look around for the leak. It might be the paper gaskets, oil cooler seals, bad cooler itself, or a head stud. How much.of a leak are we talking here?

Like a drip every 5 minutes, or engine is out of oil in 5 minutes?

[jpaull]

Bob,

Everyone wants to help, but to guess where your leak is coming from is really hard given some things you have attempted.

You gotta take some stuff apart and show pictures.

[Bob Brugge]

[FeelthySanchez]

Ten minutes is a hemorrhage - as in wrong oil cooler seals, a cracked cooler or engine case.
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[Bob Brugge]

pics as promised, more to come

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Keep on Dubbin'!

[Pruneman99]

Out of oil in 10 minutes? Definitely more than a leak. Was the oil cooler known good? A cracked oil cooler or something seriously wrong with the oil cooler seals maybe. Definitely a tear down is going to be needed. Possibly the cam plug?

From the pictures it looks like the firing order might be incorrect but it's hard to see where the wires go behind the cooler duct.

Firing order 1-4-3-2

Engine cylinder layout:
Front of car

3------1

4------2
Rear of car


"Normal" cap layout:
Front of car

---------2

3-_------------ 1

-------- 4
Rear of car

The distributor might be indexed different depending on the distributor and how the drive gear was dropped in but it will always be in the 1-4-3-2 clockwise starting with #1 and the engine on TDC.

[jpaull]

When I advised for you to take pictures to help identify the problem areas, I was suggesting that you take pictures of the problem areas.

You took pictures of the top of the engine(where we dont see anything thats leaking) and you showed a picture of the ground with oil on it. Not really helping out much. Im just tryin to help you help yourself.

[veeweeman]

Try to get pictures of both sides looking up through the pushrod tubes
If the oil cooler is leaking bad it will usually run between cylinders 3-4....but I think others would like to see if your cylinders are leaking since you only used the paper gasket, either way you're gonna have to reseal those cylinders. ..Red RTV high temperature gasket sealer is the best for sealing the cylinder base to case (no paper gasket)
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I've used the paper gaskets and permatex on every stock engine I have ever built and never had a problem. I use black silicone on all my motors with larger cylinders.

Nothing wrong with the gaskets but you have to use permatex too.....not red grease.
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Cylinder Head Reference Sheet

[mcmscott]

Volkswagen had a tsb to not use the paper gaskets and only rtv to avoid cylinder base leaks.
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