Leaking oil from .. everywhere? Cause? Fix?

[otis_bartleh]

I had a 1776 put together, and ever since day 1, it seemed to be leaking oil from everywhere, appeared to be from the cylinders, and even seems to be leaking / seeping from the pump cover. Went through issues with the main seal, replaced it, and had to re-ring the engine, and did about 1000-2000 miles after it was first built.

This time, a buddy re-ringed the engine for me and put the long block back together. Both builders know what they are doing, definitely enough where I don't think that BOTH of them could forget to torque the heads properly.

I'm wondering if this could really be an issue of needing the heads re-torqued, or something else? And what could cause this?

It's a mild 1776 with an Engle 100 cam and DRD L3 heads. It has a 30mm Gene Berg Oil pump with relief cover. The 30mm pump was recommended by them as this is in a bus, and I have about 7 feet or so of oil line each way between my engine, oil filter with thermostatic sandwich plate adapter, and oil cooler which is mounted mid bus under the cargo floor. Could too much pump cause this issue? Is this even too much pump? Oil pressure seems good...

At this point, I have so much money in this engine, it is frustrating that I don't even feel I could take it on a 500 mile trip to Oregon from the Bay Area, and that it leaks more oil than my ~10 year old 1641. And I was going to be taking the bus to Oregon next weekend...

It drives well, just leaks / seeps a bunch... Video of around the push rod tubes showing oil basically coating the engine: (the first builder painted the case without me knowing he was going to, now it's all peeling off, nice...)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p0lq9b3mubzw7fu/2018-05-24%2018.59.16.mp4?dl=0
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[74 Thing]

Where is it leaking from exactly? I cannot access your link,

Is that the only problem-the oil leaks. If so pull out the engine and reseal it properly.

Did you bring it to the attention of the engine builder(s)-maybe they will fix it.

[otis_bartleh]

[nextgen]

An Oil cooler can do all of that, just goes all over the place. Had that happen to me.

Not fun if the heater boxes have some in them.
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[otis_bartleh]

[67rustavenger]

Ask the builder if they stretched the PR tube accordion ends before torquing the heads.
That might cause a leak like seen in the video.

I can see that the builder used RTV on the cylinder bases. So there shouldn't be leaks from there.

But as mentioned above the improper coil cooler seals can spray oil everywhere.

If your set on getting to the PNW Bug Run. Maybe slip the 1641 back in and slow cruise to PDX.

Good Luck.
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[mark tucker]

tell them to fix it...or better yet, find somebody that can fix it. if it's leaking from everywhere...somethens rong.

[Angus II]

Hello,
Clean the engine again top to bottom(you may want to remove your bottom tins under the push rod tubes). Let it dry as you are putting it up on jack stands(4) try to make it level. Then start it up, get under there on a creeper with a bright flashlight and wait for the drips to start. Shut it down, then trace down where the drip is coming from.... Look up... That's why you take the tins off...
You don't need to drive it, that will just spread the oil all around..

[jsturtlebuggy]

Do you have a road draft tube for a crankcase breather system?
I have seen stock engines covered on the bottom with just a breather hose hanging down below the engine. The oil can be carried forward and cover everything.

Your video needs to show more of the engines bottom side.
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[jason]

Why do you keep re ringing it?

[otis_bartleh]

[otis_bartleh]

[Danwvw]

So does it only leak oil if your drive it at higher RPM's? How bad is the leak does it make things oily but no oil is dripping from the engine? Is it all on one side? The Video Again. The video shows the 1, 2 side which is the side the 6 big case studs come through perhaps the engine builder forgot the Orings that go on the studs. A crack in a cylinder wall will do that too or a poor surface or RTV silicone seal at the cylinder base. Has the engine pulled a stud?
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[KTPhil]

One of the reasons to buy a long block instead of a short block is that you are assured (supposedly) that the cylinders and heads were installed correctly, and that the mating surfaces are true and flat.

This should eliminate oil leaks, whereas a short block leaves many of these issues up to you, and I could see the builder not owning the leaks as a short block.

But you paid for the long block work, and thus the shop should probably own the leaks. At least they should agree to look it over. Not a good sign that they are giving you the shutout. I'd post this in the Feedback forum.

None of which helps you now, though!

[modok]

Using the correct sealant and prep is important where the oil pump seals to case, sump plate, and to keep the valve cover gaskets stuck to the valve cover. It is also necessary to use thread sealer on the 6 main stud nuts/washer, lower head nuts/washer and oil pump studs and nuts, (or bolts, if you use bolts), and rocker studs. Short list right? And some of those are supposed to be sealed with o-rings, but it turns out thread sealer is more dependable than o-rings

What about the other parts? those seal by being machined correctly. You can put sealer on there as a temporary measure and to prevent seeping but what seals half the joints in a VW engine is the metal surfaces coming together, the flat parts need to be flat. If the cylinders are not sitting flat on the case all the way round, it will leak, no sealer will save you.

it is also possible for the case to leak directly through the metal. Some cases, especially the as-21, do sometimes have porous areas, usually just enough to be annoying and keep the case from oxidizing.

some guys want to park on a concrete driveway and not see a drop on it, and....that's waaaay different than leaking a half quart in 3000 miles.
How much oil is it leaking?

[Max Welton]

[modok]

It's true of just about everybody

And even worse if they are NOT fully aware of what they are going IN to fix, they may not fix the problem. Not saying that's the case, but it sure does happen.

[otis_bartleh]

[modok]

Yeah!
I'm not saying to assume, but.... don't discount the possibility that the thing is, in fact, cursed.
Cursed as in there may be some flaw in the engine case that is something you'd never find unless you knew to look.
Such things do happen every now and then.

If you take a decent engine that you know the history of, and re-build it, that's usually no worries.

You get a basket case of parts....or a new case, good deal at the swap meet, you don't know what your in for.

[74 Thing]

Take the engine out and clean everything well and then run it without tin briefly but before doing that spray white foot powder all over-you will see where the leak is coming from.

Maybe the case was not decked properly so it is leaking at the cylinder bases. I had a problem with one like that which was cut for 94mm but it gets thin by the head studs and if it is not decked it would leak.

Can you see the oil coming from up above the pushrods like the base of the cylinders?

You can spray brake clean all over and clean it and do the foot spray trick to try to locate the leak area with the engine installed, but it is much easier with the tin off.