Oem vs aftermarket stock fuel pump

[Frodge]

Is it preferable to rebuild the pierburg squaretop oem pumps if you have an oem kit? Or better to get something like a brosol? I know through extensive reading that the oem pumps put out the best most consistent pressure, but they’re also plagued by the brass fittings, while the Bristol’s have the fittings built into the unit itself. I still run a pierburg on my car and was planning when the time comes to just use the oem vw kit to rebuild it, but then I see guys having those fitting pop out and I question it. Any recommendations?

[Cusser]

I have rebuilt my Pierburg square top fuel pump; kit was like $30+ and I had to re-use my old spring to get the right pressure. Bill on this site states that the newer kits from Wolfsburg West have corrected this.

I also have a new fuel pump from O'Reilly, has clips on the horizontal pivot rod and puts out 3.2 psi, I measured. But I only have had this one a few months, but the outlet tubes are part of the pump and cannot come out. It is lifetime warrantied, but I've only had it a few months, so still "testing".
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/import-direct...&pos=3

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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Those outlets usually get worked loose because people yank the fuel hoses off, or have the outlet under constant strain.
Always, slice the hose in half length wise along the fitting to remove it (don't just pull it off)
When your pump needs servicing just check it out. While rebuilding give a tug on those fittings, if they are loose you can:

1) Safteywire the fittings
2) "Tap" the fitting
3) Roughen it up a bit with sandpaper and use a dab of appropriate epoxy to secure it in place


If you get an aftermarket pump (a lot of ACVWs are running around with aftermarket pumps) just remember:

1) Check your PSI when you first install to make sure it's in spec
2) Get one with the c-clips on the rotating/pivot pin (the one going through the base) so that the pin doesn't come out on you

Pic from gallery:
Safety wire on the OG pump

Aftermarket pump with c-clip on pin

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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[Zundfolge1432]

The final solution which looks correct and removes any possibility of loose fitting is using the original pump with screw in barbed fittings, use barb threaded at the carb with the ethanol rated hose and you’re done.

Or you can use the chinese no name pump if you don’t care how it looks.

[Frodge]

[Zundfolge1432]

Would you believe I did both? My 74 runs the alternator with brosol formed fittings on top but I also had Bill rebuild an original square top for a different engine I wanted to look period correct.

[Frodge]

Lol! Bill did the threaded inlet and outlet?