2wd Suspension Overhaul Fox, GW 1.5" Lift, Burley UCA, Powerflex

[shagginwagon83]

I found a sick deal on craigslist for some 16" CLK320s. 4 set with spare tire for $350. They were even previously on a Vanagon - so I knew they would fit.

Long story short, I needed to replace front rotors to run new spacers. Next thing I know it - I'm doing a full suspension rebuild.

Before:

After:

What I was working with: cracked bushings, split boots. It rode awesome - the joints were in decent shape minus the boots.

I try to do a job once so I will not have to revisit it in future. So I may have went overboard on this experience.

Yanked everything out: 15 hours
Each lower control arm to ball joint adapter (early style) had one seized bolt. One front shock bolt was seized.

I had a lot of surface rust. I couldn't just POR15 and expect good results. Seemed too easy to me. So - I started cleaning up the undercarriage. This was a miserable process. Sitting and rolling in dirt with the van on jackstand. It killed my back. I bought an extension on my dremel and used small little wire brushes. I bought cheap ones on amazon. Probably went through 40 of them to reach hard to get places. That with a degreaser and an angle grinder with wire brush.

Cleaning front undercarriage: 40 hours

Paint: 5 hours. My favorite part. After spending 40 hours of grinding and scrubbing it was nice to get the ball moving. At this point I had all my parts on hand ready to be put back together. I used SprayMax 2K Epoxy Rust Cure for primer (3680032). 2 coats of primer. I was amazed how precise that rattle can was. It was my first 2 part rattle can - pure amazing. Had a flat matte ivory look to it (color of my van).

I had a 24 hour window to put on my paint so I sprayed like 4 hours after primer. I bought color-matched car grade automotive paint from Sherman Williams. It was $150 for a quart! After all the work I spent on scrubbing - no way I was about to back down for some cheaper paint.

I mixed it together and ...well it didn't look anywhere like my color. I gave them the color code at Sherman. Maybe it goes on dark and dries. NOPE

Next morning I check and its same color. I call Sherman up and say, what up bro!? They said they messed up and will give me right color for free. That's more like it. Luckily I was able to meet the window and did not have to sand any. 2 coats of top coat. I sprayed 3M rattle can undercoating in the fender wells after the top coats.

Assembly - 10 hours a side for front, 5 hours a side for rear.
This was fun part. But first - lets make sure we do this right.

Old parts were sent off to be blasted and painted.

I had a table full of parts. Fox Shocks, powerflex bushings, Moog lower joints, Lemforder Upper joints (bad move - these were made in china, but easily replaced), VW steering grease, Moog tie rod ends, Zimmerman front rotors, Van Cafe front bearing kit. Oh and T3 was extremely helpful. I bought all new replacement bolts for front suspension. His website made it so easy for my suspension rebuild. Even the bolts were labeled in bags!

Lower ball joint 'jig' made

Someone recommended I remove the expansion tanks and replace gaskets. Good idea.

What a mess! It's easy to get carried away when you're having fun

Upper control arm comparison.

New lug studs, lug bolts, and 10mm spacers for the Mercedes rims.

I plan to add a 'wax' undercoating in the front. I did not 'clean up' the rear because I did not want to drop CV and rear trailing arms. I will save that job for another time - It takes awhile for that undercarriage restoration.
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[erste]

well done!

how's it drive?

[llilibel03]

Nice work. Thanks for posting up all the photos.

A great artist (Robert Irwin) once said that a great craftsman cares how thing are finished even where you can't see them (I think he said this referring to painting the back side of the dashboard in an old hot rod). The finish of your suspension, especially the Burley UCAs is bling only a vanagon fanatic can appreciate.

A couple of questions- what are you ride heights now? What were they before? Your van is an 85?

Did you need spring compressors to get the old springs out? The new ones in?

Is your van manual or automatic? How are the CV joints after the lift?
_________________
87 syncro tintop
90 gl tin top
85 westy 2.0 tiico automatic (present)

[shagginwagon83]

[markswagen]

Very nice, the only thing I would have suggested you do differently, would have been to use late spindles and brakes.
When you have it that far apart it wouldn't have cost too much more.
_________________
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[shagginwagon83]

[SCM]

That looks great! Thanks for posting all the photos.

Kudos on the innovative and potentially deadly use of zip ties.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[elizer]

Nice! The new 2wd billet arms look awesome. Even people not in the know would see all that color going on and realize something is up.

Any reason you didn't use larger wire brushes on a hex shank and then use the Dremel for the harder to reach areas?

[shagginwagon83]

[82westyrabbit]

That’s about what it took me to do the same job. It looks great. John

[shagginwagon83]

[tarandusVDub]

wow, nice job! thanks for all the photos. I have the GW 1.5" lift on my 2WD and eventually used Burley's UCA for 2WD. They solved all my alignment issues. At that time he only had the sexy UCAs for syncros ~ now I see the 2WD are getting the love too. Well done!
_________________
1990 Syncro 16" DoppleKabine 2.1 DJ 112i
________________________
Sold: 1972 Bay Campmobile; 1984 Westy, base model, 2WD.

[D78Q85V87]

If I ever get something more valuable than just a tiptop weekender this is definitely a build I will seriously be looking into.

[shagginwagon83]

Thanks! Some mistakes/choices I should have made were

1. T3 swaybar and endlinks. I plan to change this
2. Big brakes - I would need to have paid $400+ for late model spindles, plus $500+ for big brake kit.
3. USED MORE BUSHING SNOT! I think my sway bar is squeaking.
4. Used Alikamotorsports Steering rack bushings (sorry man didn't know you made em).
5. Used WhiteLine bushings at the LCA and the steering rack (Harder durometer!)

6? Maybe used Schwenk springs instead of GoWesty. We shall see if they sag.
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[tarandusVDub]

Just FYI, I've got about 25k on my gowesty 1.5 lift springs and they haven't sagged at all. Or, if that have its negligible, and the forward/aft rake is the same. They have worked out great for me.
_________________
1990 Syncro 16" DoppleKabine 2.1 DJ 112i
________________________
Sold: 1972 Bay Campmobile; 1984 Westy, base model, 2WD.

[levi]

Well, I guess that just proves that the quality control standards used by the manufacturer is not consistently employed.
Too bad, because a lot of us got screwed.
_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[E1]

True dat.

Schwenks Rule.
_________________
‘84 Westy, 2.1L with Digijet, 5.43 R+P, GT Gears
"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."
— Colin Chapman

[Vnyd Dog]

[shagginwagon83]

[Vnyd Dog]

Nice thanks. Crazy the Whitelines are half the price...
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'87 Westy 1.8T Conversion, Orignal Owner, European Delivery @ Westfalia factory in Weidenbrueck.
The Story:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713391&highlight=life