Fuse contact failure

[yammi450]

I’m having a reoccurring problem of a fuse losing contact with the fuse holder. My ignition has an in-line fuse that did this 6 times yesterday within a 5 min period. The fuse doesn’t blow or show signs on the blades of a loose contact. The holder has been replaced with a new one of the same manufacturer, and the problem keeps happening. I have to take the fuse out and reinsert it to get it to work again. Has anyone had an issue like this? It only started doing this as the weather began getting hot. Thanks

This is the holder I’m using https://m.pepboys.com/product/details/8962485/01519

[KTPhil]

Could be a bad batch of parts. Maybe get a refund and go to a different store and buy a different brand.

Or use a small zip tie to hold the fuse in place. It will still blow, but it won't fall out.

On the other hand, I wonder if the contacts are loose, it might have higher resistance, and cause heat buildup. If it isn't at the fuse part of the metal, it may not blow the fuse but it could still get hot enough to be a problem, depending on where it's mounted.

[vwoldbug]

What amp fuse and can you take a picture of that area

[yammi450]

There is no slop in the fit of the fuse and I have to take it out anddreinsert it to get it to make contact again. I’ve tried multiple fuses and it only started after warming up weather wise. Before that I ran a smaller amp in the winter with no problems.

[vwoldbug]

It looks like that black connecter to right of the relay has corrosion peeking out and there has been problems with blue scotch having poor connections . Do you know where the wires on the fuse go .

[EVfun]

I suspect there is a bad connection nearby. It may not be one you made, it may be an old factory crimp, a rotting wire, a loose spade terminal, or something else close. The idea is that you are pumping a lot of heat into the terminal that keeps loosing tension. That heat cannot be the element of the fuse because it is designed to blow before damaging the fuse holder.

I suggest you look around while it works and carefully feel for heat. With 6 or 12 volt auto electronics you are not going to get shocked, so long as you stay away from the ignition coil and wires.
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[yammi450]

That weatherpack is the only connector between the fuse and the component. I’ll check it out for corrosion or loose connection. All of this is under the rear seat so it gets no air circulation which adds to the heat.

[yammi450]

That weatherpack is the only connector between the fuse and the component. I’ll check it out for corrosion or loose connection. All of this is under the rear seat so it gets no air circulation which adds to the heat.

[vwoldbug]

Does the yellow feed the coil , choke element & the carb shutoff solenoid . Maybe see if it is rubbing or pinched at the carb & fan housing .

[yammi450]

No the fuse feeds the relay board for the fuel injection and only goes to behind the rear seat. There is no chafing of the wires

[KTPhil]

The fuse can be tight mechanically, perhaps gripped by the rubber boot. But that doesn't mean it's making good electrical contact. You said it "loses contact." Do you mean physically or electrically?

[hitest]

I bet I installed over 200 of those in a couple years of doing car stereos professionally (quite a while back). Never ever did one fail to protect it's circuit when the right amp draw and fuse were involved. Only when someone overloaded the circuit and had too big a fuse in there did one burn up- and you could see the damage from the outside.
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[yammi450]

I also haven’t seen this happen. That’s why I’m puzzled. There is no damage to the outside of the holder or wire. I’m going to eliminate the weatherpack and see if it stops.