Turbo build

[buguy]

So if anyone has read my last thread you will see I have a damaged head and my p&c are worn out. I don't know which way I will go with this yet, but I wanted to get opinions on what would be smart to do from here. I hope to use as much of what I have for this but I'm also not looking for the most absolute cheapest route. Also lets assume I will be upgrading my trans soon after the build.
So what I have is:
Stock 1600 with HD springs and chromoly pushrods
Subaru TD04-13t turbo
1 3/8" tubes and collector to build a header
I have 3 holley 2 barrels, a 350 and 2 of the 500's. Also have 3 of the 390 4 barrels
I have a PLX wideband with a boost module too. Reads afr, volts, and vacuum /boost
I will either keep the draw through or blow through one of those holleys. No efi for now
Also will be reusing my case.
Where I drive is mostly 50mph roads. Some riddled with stoplights and some not. I will never take it on the hyway/interstate.
I really don't have a budget in mind and I'm not looking for a drag car. Just want to get the most grunt for my dollar.
Do I keep my stock crank and rods, keep the cam? Keep the crank and change the cam? Get good heads? Should I get 88mm p&c since I have to get new heads anyway?
What are your thoughts?

[Krochus]

I was pleasantly suprised. My blow through dual IDF setup was way easier to tune, drive and live with than any iteration of my single carb draw through setup was. I was intimidated by blow through at first but IMO it’s just a better way to go. Plus it’s easier to convert to EFI later and getting the wet part of the intake tract shorter is never a bad thing

First turbo. Keep it simple. Stock crank, stock cam, hell stock heads or new EMPI as flow isn’t nearly as critical as with an NA engine. Good valvesprings are a great investment.

Once you build a turbo motor you’ll realize how chasing NA high flow horsepower is simply doing things wrong. Get it right and you will have a car with BETTER than stock street manners that will pin you in the seat when you mash the go pedal down. Even in top gear on the highway.

[buguy]

I did get to drive this car a few times but it wasn't tuned optimally. But man I was shocked how hard it pulled!
Also I already made a 2 barrel blow through intake so that is half done too. Of course I still have the 4 barrel draw through intake and a 4 barrel to 2 barrel adaptor.
This is the blow through I made. Just need the cross tube and a small bend to meet it welded on.

[buguy]

Also I priced the Empi heads and they are over $400. Would something like the Panchito be smarter to buy at $600? Those prices are opened up for 92 bore and single HD springs.I was thinking the 88 thick wall machine in since I have to buy new heads anyway. But I don't know if it's worth the extra cost on a small turbo engine. An extra 80cc and better flowing heads seems like it would help, but maybe not without a cam?? No clue here. Bigger cylinders and CB heads are about $300 more.

[Krochus]

If you aren’t going to build a 2L or bigger I’d just stay with a 1600 and buy better jugs and pistons.

You keep saying FLOW.

Quit worrying about it. You are force feeding the engine now. Don’t even worry about flow if you aren’t shooting for 150+ hp.

Keep it simple! What gets ya horsepower with an NA engine can be accomplished with another psi or two on your boost controller

[buguy]

Well I would like 150hp or so. I think that is doable even with a stocker.
So you don't think I'd gain much with a Panchito over a smaller valve Empi? At the same boost

[Krochus]

[modok]

I would go with 311, or 040 castings (no step chamber), if not available maybe mofoco heads. Empi heads are not proven IMO. The fit and finish of them is good, but I want to see how they look after some real miles.....before I'd ever chance it.

With stock end-castings no need for a valve larger than 37mm
So, stock size valves or maybe 37.5x33 at the largest.
There are certain cases where you would use a larger head with the end castings, but not on a small CC engine.
Little intake manifold, little heads, little header, little engine.
you can't JUST put on BIG heads and get any improvement. Make EVERYTHING bigger, then that's a different story.

[buguy]

Thanks guys. I didn't even consider the end castings being the restriction.
Ok so I will look at some stockish heads. So what about the cam? Keep what I have or bump it up? I haven't checked mine out yet but I will before I get too far along here. I need to find lift numbers for a stocker so I can measure.

[modok]

yeah, change the cam, just don't over-do it.
Too much duration it will idle terrible with the single carb.

duration 230-240 @ .050, .400-.450 lift

[Krochus]

[buguy]

Any idea what specs are on a stock cam? Mine purred like a kitten. Kind of boring really. I would have liked it to sound a little tougher!
Here it is moments before that rocker backed off. I was having some drain issues so I was testing it to see if moving the drain would help. Which it did. Used to smoke like hell.

Link

[modok]

Maybe, yes, and it would improve idle as well.
240@ .050 on a 112 lobe center would be good if you want to rev it fairly high.

If you just want to put in a VERY mild cam, like CB cheater cam.....I'd say leave it at 107, IMO. Not totally sure.....but, that's my guess.

[Krochus]

A straight shot 5/8 ID drain and a .065 oil restrictor will keep the smoke away and a turbo nice n happy.

[modok]

The stock cam is 210/215 at .050, and about .310 lift (or was it .330?) at the valve, off the top of my head.

[buguy]

Well if I went with a 240 on a 112 is it going to move the whole hp curve higher in the revs? Still a stock crank so I don't want to get too crazy.
And I had a 5/8" drain but it wasn't very straight. I moved it to the 3/4 valve cover and its good now. Although you can see how much drains out. I really don't think 5/8" is necessary after watching it drain. Here is how it was before.

Link

[buguy]

Also is there a favorite place to get the heads and p&c from? I looked at mofoco. Maybe it's just me but if I want stainless valves we are at about $260 and I believe that's regular single springs. Seems kind of high for a stock head? $230 without stainless valves.
CB has some stock heads with high rev single springs for just under $200 each. Not stainless I assume.

[esde]

Steve Tims super stock heads, tell them you are building a small displacement turbo. They will set you up with the right valves, springs, and guides.
Great Stock-ish heads
_________________
modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[buguy]

Any idea what the price is on those? The site doesn't have prices for the super stock heads.

[modok]

Cb's heads are very low price right now, and so are the made in china heads.

This is kinda neat, but that does not mean that it is normal for a brand new cylinder head to be so cheap.
And you don't have to have NEW heads.
I never bought any NEW heads.

OK, twice I did, but I regretted it.

It's a fifty year old car.....maybe you need 25 year old heads.