Newbie - Recommendation for mechanic in the bay area

[Omario]

Hello All,
I purchased almost fully restored 59 bug a month ago. After purchasing the car, I took it to THE most famous shop in the San Francisco bay area to do a trany rebuilt and to address an engine oil leak. Was told the cause of the leak is the main seal. Got my car back after the trany rebuild and main seal replacement, and notice oil drops in the garage. Took it back to the mechanic and they informed me that the axle boot clamp need to be repositioned and the oil leak is resolved. Drove home, notice that the oil drops are more. Decided to learn more about the aircooled engines on you tube. Opened the engine door and noticed that the leak is coming from the left of the engine S/N is engraved. It is exactly dead center (if you to split the engine into 2 halfs). Not sure what the source is. I do not believe the mechanic even looked at the engine compartment, they just looked at the car from underneath. I checked the reviews on yelp, and it seems a similar story. To make a long story short, need a recommendation for another mechanics. Help questions:
1- Recommendation for Mechanic shop in the SanFrancisco bay area.
2- How much should it cost to take the engine out and replace all seals. Car runs amazing with no issues at all. No smoke or nothing. Besides the leaks, the car is a 10/10. Like a brand new car.


I forgot to mention that the current shop kept my car for 3 weeks to do a trany rebuild and when I got back, it did not want to shift out for reverse. Had to return the car back and it was kept for another 2 weeks. When I got it back, this is when I noticed the oil leak.

Specs: 59 bug with a single port 1600 engine

[74 Thing]

What shop did you take it to in the Bay Area?

The engine has the wrong distributor-it should have a vacuum distributor for the single port. It also looks like you have a gap in the engine tin just to the rear of the dip stick.

Where exactly is the leak coming from? From your description you indicate the left side, but from the photo you show the rear of the engine and the leak appears on the right side under the generator stand and under the crank pulley. Is that where your leak is coming from? (Left and right are described as if you were sitting in the drivers seat of the vehicle).

[Erik G]

possibly just too much oil pressure. How big of a leak are we talking about, a few drops over night?

I've never had a vw that didn't leak a little. It's an old car. It can be done, but it's going to be very expensive for you to pay someone to tear down your engine, when you've stated it runs fine.

You're going to need to learn to work on cars yourself. I honestly never hear anything good about any shops in the bay, but where exactly are you?
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[Omario]

I used Lavere's restoration. I am in east bay. Attached is the direction of the leak. I wish I had the skill set to work on it my self.

I am Ok if it leaks a bit, but the oil is now getting sprayed in the inside of the hood and on other components.

[Omario]

[74 Thing]

If it is "spraying" and it appears to be on the case behind the crank pulley then most likely the leak is coming from that area.

There is no seal on the crank pulley area (at least as stock). Instead there are spiral grooves on the pulley to keep the oil inside.

Is your engine overfilled with oil? Is the breather hose clear? It looks like you have the downdraft tube on the oil filler so that is good. Are you sure none of the oil is coming from the oil filler or cap area?

The only alternative is to get a bolt in or machine in sand seal pulley. Basically a seal gets installed on that end of the case and the pulley that accompanies it does not have any grooves but is a smooth cylinder.

You can try Buggy House in Hayward. Tell them that the engine is leaking oil behind the crank pulley and spraying your decklid.

[Omario]

Thanks 74 thing for the reply. I do not believe that the leak is coming from the pully area. my guess, oil is dripping on pully thus spraying everywhere.

I added more pictures. If you think of the engine is too halves (looking at it from the back or the car with one half on the left and the other half on the right), the leak is coming from where the 2 halves meet. At least from where I can see. Need to remove the tin to see it extends all the way towards the fly wheel area.

Red line is the split of the 2 halves. Yellow/green is the oil drop path (I believe)

[rcooled]

First, clean everything off with some Gunk, or similar degreaser and let it dry thoroughly. Then start the engine and let it run until you can see exactly where the oil's coming from. Once that's been established, it'll be easier to recommend how to proceed.
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'63 Ragtop (current)
'65 Ghia coupe (totaled)
'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone)

[74 Thing]

Easiest way to determine where it is coming from is get some brake cleaner some towels and some white foot powder spray. clean the areas good and then spray it with the powder and start it up and you should see where it is coming from hopefully. Maybe the generator stand too.

[Spezialist]

Oil cooler and or it’s seals
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[Omario]

Thanks for the excellent advice. I will clean up everything than repost after findings.

[Erik G]

oil filler looks loose. the green lines on the right. get a 13 mm wrench and tighten those 4.

the fuel pump too (left green lines) but not too tight

and clean and start and report back. Post a pic of the level on the dipstick as well, before you start it up
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[Erik G]

from the reviews here

don't go to Tassi

NO to buslab

no to Griffin

If you can deal with Belmont, Jansen enterprises has a good rep. Ask the locals about buggy house in hayward.

I know a great guy all the way in Sacramento
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[Busstom]

[Rome]

[Spezialist]

I know a guy who’s mobile but his clientele is very exclusive.
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[Omario]

I really appreciate everyone’s help. I cleaned the engine compartment and bottom of the engine thoroughly and ran it around the block and found where the leak is coming from. It is from the fuel pump stand (left green lines). I did try to tighten them but still leak. However, the degreaser I used ate up the gasket/seal for the oil filler/generator stand. I used one from Auto Zone. No leaks form there but the gasket/seal got eaten up.

Also, found out the root cause for all this. These guys when they did an oil change, they overfilled the engine with too much oil. See dipstick. I was able to suck oil out of the dip stick hole to make acceptable. But I believe the damage is done. Need to replace the seals for fuel pump stand.

Finally, I couldn’t tight the right/back corner screw for the generator stand due to accessibility. Any advice? (Yes I know it is not the source of the leak, but I tightened 3 and only missing one)

[Rome]

For that right-front generator stand nut, you have at least 2 wrench choices in that cramped area. 1 is a sideways-curved 13mm box-end wrench which is sold by VW vendors to access the front mounting nut for the carburetor. Also known as a "half-moon" wrench. If you have time to wait for a delivery, that is a useful tool. 2. If you don't have time, you can try a stubby (short handle) 13mm open-end wrench. http://www.google.com/shopping/product/10558449353...DDMQ8wIIMQ

This one from Sears would also work, whereby the ratcheting box-end may not have enough clearance to the stand's vertical surface to get it fully down onto the nut. http://www.sears.com/gearwrench-13mm-full-polish-s...NwodPKoB1A

Good going with diagnosing the leak! When you remove the fuel pump and the Bakelite stand, first pull out the metal pushrod in the center of the stand. CAREFULLY pull the stand up off the two studs. It is common for the stand's base to be slightly stuck inside the engine. First try to pull the entire stand straight up with your fingers. Don't try to grip it with a tool because the Bakelite material is brittle. Hopefully you'll be able to pull the stand fully out easily. Look inside the bottom of the fuel pump body to make certain it is filled with grease. This is needed for the lubrication of the "lever" which pumps up and down by the pushrod when the engine is running. The grease stays in place by the upper stand gasket. Once you have the new gaskets and the fuel pump (and pushrod; thin pointy end goes down into the engine) in place, tighten the two M8 nuts evenly and gently.

[Omario]

Thanks Rome for the advice.

I was informed that the engines require a service every 3000 miles. What does the service include?


Oil change

Gaskets replacement (which ones?) Valve cover, etc...


Valve adjustment?

I live in Pleasanton and found a local guy that seems to be very knowledgeable. His name is Tony and he owns beetle power. I am thinking of letting him do the service but I want to know what is typically done.

[74 Thing]

Tony at Beetle Power is a good guy. Tell him that you need the fuel pump resealed and to tighten the gen stand and to check for any other oil leaks.

You can always go to Harbor Freight and get cheap stubby wrenches or s shaped wrenches and cut down a wrench for your needs.

Tell him your oil was overfilled as well.

I would ask him about the correct vacuum distributor for your engine/carb combination too-it will improve driving a lot most likely.

Every 3k-change oil (including cleaning strainer), change oil in oil/air bath cleaner, valve adjustment, check dwell on distributor and timing, change fuel filter if disposable one, adjust carb when warmed up to operating temp, adjust brakes. Thats what I can think out of the top of my head. You should learn to do these yourself even if you decide to use a mechanic so for the just in case times.