oil leak and wont idle

[OrangeMango]

So I ran into some unexpected issues.
i installed a remote oil filter with an adapter off of the oil pump.
The crank pully would not fit back on after this so i bought a new pulley (i wanted a new one so I figured better now than never) and a pulley spacer kit.
I installed 2 spacers, 1 from kit and one came with pulley, with only 1 it still hit the oil pump adapter plate.

So every thing seemed fine, drove it for a month or so, noticed it looked more wet in the engine bay but not auper bad. Well the last week its been getting 95ish degrees, I noticed my breaks starting to build more pressure than normal.
On tuesday last week they locked up on they way to work (6 mile drive to work) about half way i could tell they were. Well i couldn't really stop half way so I probably over did it and drove the rest the way to work.
At my break i went out to check on it, breaks felt fine at that point, i also didnt have any tools to bleed them. So i drove home later fine, no locking but pressure did start to build.

This last Saturday, I bought new wheel cylinders for the rears (the front i changed to disc breaks last year along with a new master cylinder because the front locked up, never got around to changing the backs)
So i change them along with replacing a park break wire that needed to be replaced

Just a btw, if you can buy a park break cable thats made for a beetle do it, the one i bought was from Oreillys and the part number matched a 72 beetle but i think it was more of a fits all and the threadded part that connects to the parking handle was too long so it wouldnt fit in the pipe running from the back of the car so i had to grind and cut off about 2cm off the top before it would go in fine.

Replace both rear and cable, drove around the block, feels fine, get home and notice I have a dripping trail of oil behind me, it was partly coming from my valve gaskets, i bought new ones on Sunday and put them on. The passanger side was the one leaking, it fixed that.
Now its still leaking but not sure from where, and now (after i changed the gaskets) it won't idle, it cutts off and dies and i have no clue why. If I set the carb open past the first click open it will but as soon as it warms up it will drop the idle and die.

So im going to try and take a look at it Saturday and see whats wrong, where its leaking, and why it wont idle. Im gonna get someone to start it so i can see where its leaking from when its running.

What i do need to know before this weekend is with the crank pully leak, its leaking because the oil slinger threads and too far out so oil hitts the threads and flys out the back of the crank, not super bad leak because ive been checking the level and the oil doesnt drain fast but im not sure now because its leaking bad now.

I understand a sand seal keeps dirt & sand from getting in but will it keep the oil from leaking out past the slinger? Or should I try and cover the oil slinger threads theat lead out of the engine? I was thinging filling them with a silicone but not sure if it would hold under the spinning pressure and i dont want that micing with the oil.

Sorry for the super long post, i just dont want to be asked questions i can answer now.
And insite on my issue or anyone who has had something like this happen before would be greatly appreciated.
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1972 Super Beetle stock 1600 DP
1967 Karmann Ghia stock 1500 SP

[Cusser]

[OrangeMango]

So to update what i found out today. I checked the oil and it said it was low, now its been leaking for a week while it sat so I figure ok it makes sense. I added oil and was gonna see where it was leaking from. Looks like its leaking from the oil pump and the ends of the pushrod tubes, so I'm assuming the gaskets failed. My brother then takes a look and says the oil smells like it mixed with my fuel.

I go to drain the oil and it starts gushing out. So my fuel pump diaphragm must have failed leaking fuel into the oil. My brother and I both think if I change my fuel pump and fill it with oil it should be driveable in the short term now that the fuel isnt mixed with the oil.

So I'm taking the good fuel pump off my parts engine and im gonna run with that if it works tomorrow. Is there any reason i shouldn't try this?

As for the plan for the long run im gonna ride my mortorcycle to work unless its unsafe and im taking my parts engine and doing a rebuild to a stock 1600. Oh and fun part, i cracked open the case and found out why my original motor froze up, the bearing look burnt up.

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1972 Super Beetle stock 1600 DP
1967 Karmann Ghia stock 1500 SP

[VW_Jimbo]

Yes, change the fuel pump, change the oil and test. You should be good to go.

The other engine had a really bad case of no lubrication, causing excessive heat. Those bearings melted. Seen it on a car that drove in and them smoked for a few hours. When I disassembled it, the rods and rod bearing were one! Fused together!

The case may have seperation. Disassemble, clean and then put the case together. Shine a flashlight into the case and see if the main web is leaking light.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[OrangeMango]

Update 2. Yesterday before i remembered I had an extra pump i ordered one from the local auto store, the one they had kinda looked weird but it bolted on. I filled it with oil and it primed the carb, turned over but no fuel to my filter. Changed my pump to my spare and no pressure again.

Pulled it off and the pin seemed stiff, so I pulled the pin and housing for that out out and...

So changed that and put the spare bazillion one on it, now i have fuel pressue going through the filter. I have that chunck on plastic floating somewhere in my engine but not super worried becuase im gonna drive it as little as possible.

But the car does run now and I tossed the old fuel pump because besides the pin bending the diaphragm had to of failed to leak that much fuel into the engine.

Thanks for the replys, i think most of all i wanted to record what had happened.
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1972 Super Beetle stock 1600 DP
1967 Karmann Ghia stock 1500 SP

[Chris913653]

Just remember that there are different fuel pump types which require a different length rod, I'm not sure how else you would have bent that pin other than having the wrong setup in place?

With regards to having a bit of plastic in the engine I wouldn't worry too much, many of us have had the flange break in the engine but because it's made of bakelite which is a very brittle material it will get chewed up easily by the engine when you run it. Please change your oil shortly after and then keep changing it until it is free of the bits of bakelite. They can cause damage if they clog the oil pickup

[OrangeMango]

[Chris913653]

[OrangeMango]

So i had the beetle back on the road on Monday, thought i fixed everything but back to the breaks, they locked up on the way to work again. I took a screw driver and loosened the passanger sides adjusting stars, it wanted to roll after that. Drove to work but on the way home i felt them tight again.

Today (Sunday) i took off the drum to take a look at it, i dont know what to do at this point. I tried adjusting the star and put it back on, ran the car to see if it would lock up in the air. It seems fine but it really depends on if i drive it and it wants to lock.

Heres whats weird, while it was in neutral, in the air with tire off passanger side running the drum spins like if it was in first. Thats not normal right? If i put my foot on the break or the clutch it stools but in neural its just spinning, not fast but a low speed.
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1972 Super Beetle stock 1600 DP
1967 Karmann Ghia stock 1500 SP

[bomberbob]

Its normal for the tires to spin if its up in the air, motor running, in neutral.
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1968 Beetle (storage)
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in heavy maintenance)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[OrangeMango]