My first engine removal........questions

[crankbait09]

Prior to removing engine, I placed in UV dye to see exactly I was having oil leaks. After driving it around for awhile, then coming home and letting the engine run with dye within, I found the only location it leaked from was on the front side. Right between the transmission, and the flywheel. I believe that has red flags written all over it for the main seal being the culprit. If anyone has read my previous thread(s), you may have recalled that I had oil sitting below the oil pressure sending unit, on top of the engine tin below. Although there was oil on top of that from the drive, I did not see it on the tin after adding the dye. The only place I saw the dye coming out of, was the flywheel area. Not quite sure why. Can a leaky main seal really throw oil in to the engine compartment? I'll be removing the fan shroud to inspect everything under there. I'm still convinced my oil cooler is leaking, but I could be wrong....

Did my first engine removal today. If you remove all the time I spent observing, and figuring out whats what. I'd say it took me a good 1-1.5 hours.

I was able to remove the two top engine mount nuts located behind the shroud very easily. Got underneath the car to remove the lower engine mount nuts as well. All four came off very easily. I was really confused on that one. They were all tight, but certainly didn't take a lot of muscle to remove them. Good or bad, I'm not sure. But I certainly didn't get upset To stick to this topic, of the bolts.........I removed the four nuts and when it came to lowering the engine, I fought and fought and fought. I could not get it to lower. I was at a loss. I had a friend come over to put another set of eyes/arms on it to see what I was missing. After some jiggling and readjusting of the jack/stands, I got it down. I didn't understand why I didn't have the two upper engine mount bolts in my hand once I was done. At this point, I had the two lower studs in the engine, and the two upper ones were still in the transmission housing. I tried pushing them through but they wouldn't budge. After tinkering a little more, it all made sense.The PO replaced the bolt on the right side with the "D" bolt to help in removing the nut. I finally got them to push out. After looking closer at them, the PO placed a few layers of masking tape under the head of the bolt, I assume to keep them from turning when trying to remove the nut. That was an AH-HA moment for me. This must have been the alternative option to the puddy some people use. I believe these two bolts caused me the greif when I was trying to drop the engine. The engine was getting hung up on them. Honestly don't know how I dropped it. Bolts need to come out, lesson learned. Here's a picture of the bolts.

There is a hose that comes off of the air filter, and drops through the engine tin, to underneath the car. My hose was put through the engine tin, and then curled upwards. Where exactly is that hose supposed to go? Does it attach to anything once passed through the engine tin?
Here is a picture of the tune:

Where the accelerator cable comes through the fan shroud.....as it comes through the shroud there is a small metal tube that it passes through. This metal tube is not held in place by anything. It fits in to the shroud and it slides in and out very easily. Should this be held in place? Or is it meant to slide?
Here is a shot of the accelerator cable tube I am referring to:

As for the heat tubes. I notice their is heat tape on the ends that face the rear of the vehicle. Should this tape "be there" or is it replacing something else that is meant to be in it's place? I also noticed that the collar that fits inside the neck of each heater tube seems to be deteriorating but is still in place. Almost feels like a cardboard type collar. Not sure though. Should the collars inside each neck be replaced? Here you can see the tube with tape, but if a photo is needed of the inside collar, I can provide that.

Oh, lesson learned.....Drain oil BEFORE removing engine. Not sure how I'm going to do that with the engine lying flat on the ground
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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

Here are other pictures not shown above:

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1963 Ragtop

[Eric&Barb]

First off if the top engine mounting nuts are closer to the front bumper than the shroud, that makes them forward of the fan shroud.

Things that are closer to the rear bumper are rearward...

Yes there is supposed to be a pipe and lower rear cylinder tin with hole thru it for such.

Accelerator cable tube that goes thru the fan shroud and front engine tin is supposed to have a very firm rubber grommet in the front tin to both hold the tube and keep the edge of the tin from cutting the tube. Can use a fender washer and small hose clamp against the front of the fan shroud to keep the tube from slipping rearward and possibly jambing up the carb throttle arm movement.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[67rustavenger]

WOW!
Congratulations on your first engine pull.

The "D" bolt is stock. I wish I had one in my 67. Don't lose it. It goes on the upper starter side of the bell housing.

Yea you should have drained the oil. But all is not lost. Just put the engine on a couple of wooden blocks until you can slip a drain pan under it and move on.

The accordion heat exchanger tubes are interference fit. Meaning they don't need the tape to hold them in place.
The crumbly bits inside the tubes are an insulation. You can get newer tubes, but they suck. The bad news is that the crumbly bits are likely Asbestos. I have been driving these cars well over 40 years and have yet to begin suffering from the effects of Mesothelioma.

The tube from the air cleaner should attach to what is called a "Stove Pipe." A small metal tube that attaches to the exhaust stud. (See the above post for a picture example) The tube transfers lower engine heat to the carb intake. It helps to get things warmed up.

Not bad on a first time engine pull of 1.5-2 hours. I can do it by myself in an hour. Like I'm going to be doing tomorrow night

Make sure to get the proper seal installation tool before you change the front main seal. There is a $7 dollar one and a $27 dollar one. Get the more expensive one. It will get the seal to the proper depth in the case when you install the seal.

Good Luck.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Eric&Barb]

Yes, the tape on the heater muffler tubes are bogus.

That nine spring pressure plate is a NLA item, so be careful removing it so it does not get bent up. That is a part we would use on a bus, and put in a six spring PP instead in your beetle.

Metal fuel line should go thru the front engine tin and have another firm rubber grommet around it in the hole in the front tin. In a pinch one can use a section of fuel line about 2" long slit down one side and hose clamped onto the metal line with slit upward. Looks like your metal line got worn thru at the front engine tin... Be good to get a good used or new metal line from Wolfsburg West.

Rear transaxle mounts are shot, probably because someone in error used the engine to jack the whole rear end of the VW up with. You might as well replace those and the front mount now, but make sure you get good quality parts, unless you like doing this again every six months or so.
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[Eric&Barb]

Your cooling fan looks like it is for a 40 HP engine and if so is too thin for a 1300/1500/1600 engine so will cause engine to over heat. Pull off the fan shroud, remove the generator from shroud, and get an inside measurement of the outer edge of the cooling fan.

Like this:

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In Stereo, Where Available!

[crankbait09]

[Eric&Barb]

Also get a good used German alt/gen pulley with OG nut, and dump that chrome Chinese one and acorn nut in the scrap metal bin.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Eric&Barb]

[crankbait09]

[crankbait09]

[67rustavenger]

[Cusser]

[Eric&Barb]

[TDCTDI]

The rear transmission mounts are twisted like that because someone jacked the car up by the center of the bracket. It should look like this...

You should be able to remove it & bend it back into shape. But you definitely need to replace those mounts. DO NOT be tempted by those crappy urethane mounts.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[Sharp64]

I think you mentioned a thunk from the rear at some point? Could have been the tranny mounts? Agreed they are toast.
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1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[crankbait09]

I'm sure I will see it a little more clear when taking it apart, but how exactly....or what exactly is getting bent back in to place? I don't have to drop the transmission do I? I will be replacing the rear mounts for sure. Should I be concerned with all of the oil in, and around the area? There is a lot. But that could just be from the main seal.

Actually, just found a video on the removal of the front transmission mounts. Before I start that, is their a way to look at them and tell if they do in fact need changed? Again, don;t want to replace things, just to replace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5ichDEpIQ8

As for the clunk......That was the right rear shock. Rear shocks have been replaced and clunk is no more.

As for order of operation......Obviously I want to remove the fan shroud to check the oil cooler. Will also want to clean up and paint the fan shroud. I have a complete package of engine gaskets/seals. Will be replacing those as needed. Obviously would like to replace/fix each item and put it back together (if possible), before I start the next area of concern. Should the rear main seal be done before, or after the shroud work? Or does it not matter?
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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

[crankbait09]

[TDCTDI]

Never use that bracket to lift the car by, once you get it off, you will see how easy it is to bend it back.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.