My first engine removal........questions

[KTPhil]

Looks like the pushrod bend forced it to rub on the pushrod tube, causing the scoring. I'd replace that pushrod, but measure them all, and put them back in the location they came from (except your one replacement, of course).

I'd worry about why it got bent (careless handling, stuck valve, who knows?), but not deal with it if everything else checks out okay.

[crankbait09]

[Eric&Barb]

[crankbait09]

[Eric&Barb]

[mr. lang]

[crankbait09]

Upon initial views, let's see what kind of trouble I'm in.....

Removed the heads. Both heads torqued to the required ft-lbs with no problem. Both heads did have loose nuts. But it was random. SO all were re-tightened before removal.

All the push rods are 11" in length

#4 cylinder cylinder was loose immediately. The heads actually slid off and on easily, once the push rod tubes broke free. I don't know if bumping the engine block studs while lifting the head off caused the cylinders to come loose, but all 4 jiggled at this point. So I would assume it's safe to say, the cylinder seals are all ruined.

I measured the cylinders and they all came out at 86mm.

I did notice out of all 4 cylinders, that the #2 cylinder was very wet/oily. The other three were dry.

Here are some pictures of the heads/pistons. Any red flags?
Keep in mind that Cylinder 1 intake push rod was bent.

Cylinder 1/2

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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

Here is Cylinder 3/4

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1963 Ragtop

[crankbait09]

so much for only have an oil leak problem. I have certainly gone further than what I was comfortable with. And this all has to go back together

I removed the clutch. I was expecting to see oil behind it due to the main seal leaking. When I did the dye test, the only oil leaking that I saw, came from in between the transmission/the engine. Once I started tearing the engine apart, signs led me to think it was the oil cooler, and now possibly one of the cylinders. Once I removed the clutch, EVERYTHING was dry. The only thing I saw was powder that looked like "brake dust" lying in the bottom lip of the flywheel. Here are some pictures of what I see.

Would you replace the main seal, or not touch it?

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1963 Ragtop

[67rustavenger]

The front main seal is located between the flywheel and the crankshaft. You can't see it if the flywheel is in place.
Remove the 36mm gland nut and then the flywheel. The seal will be orange in color, usually.
That little black seal (it's actually felt) visible in the last image. Is the pilot bearing seal. It keeps the grease in the needle (pilot) bearing. The gland nut is threaded into the end of the crankshaft. No oil can leak from the engine here. Unless something has gone freakishly wrong.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[crankbait09]

Gotcha. When I was watching the bug me video on main seal replacement, he mentioned if I see oil in this area I mentioned, that means the main seal needs replaced, as well as the clutch since that would be full of oil as well. So that's what I was expecting to see. Guess not
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1963 Ragtop

[67rustavenger]

It appears that you have a 200mm clutch. If so, it's likely there's an O-ring in the recess area where the crankshaft and flywheel mate. If it's in good shape. It would prevent oil from seeping into the clutch. It's a good idea to replace that O-ring while you have the flywheel off for the front seal inspection.

[mukluk]

I can't see an issue with your heads as pictured, but it's difficult to see if the seats are sunken looking at them straight on, it's best to look at an angle. In the following pic you can see an example of a pretty badly sunk intake valve seat in the left chamber.

Resealing the cylinder bases where they meet the case isn't difficult. Just slide the cylinders off carefully, making sure you don't drop the pistons, clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder base and case well, then put a thin bead of appropriate RTV around the base of the cylinder followed by reinstalling it on the piston using a ring compressor. Finish up by installing the air diverter tins under the cylinders, push rod tubes, and the heads.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[crankbait09]

[crankbait09]

[crankbait09]

So to back up a tad. My heads have model numbers stamped on them. They are telling me that they were from a Type 3.

So the oil sump casing halves, have two different model numbers. Why? Why would it not be one complete engine using the same number?
My oil sump casing has VW 000.101.101, and VW 000.101.102

Does this have any impact on anything? Or just a lot number that they used back in the day?
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1963 Ragtop

[Eric&Barb]

[67rustavenger]

[crankbait09]

As I proceed, trying to figure out what I have wrong with the engine......

Following Muir, book says to push on the valve stems to see if I get any movement, which would tell me if I need to valve guides. I got no movement, but I certainly wasn't pushing really hard. All the valves were NOT sinking. The valves looked alright to me. Would you agree?

Cylinder 1/2

Cylinder 3/4

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1963 Ragtop

[mukluk]

They all look good to me, I'd still recommend throwing in a set of new exhaust valves though (cheap insurance). Should be part number 113109612A.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"