1965 11 Window Sundial Project

[dschup]

Trying to get some more done. I installed a Wolgang International Transmission Mount. The install was very straight forward and took about 2 hours. The only slightly difficult part was to remove the 4 transmission studs which are replaced by longer bolts in the kit. I added were some flat and lock washers to those 4 bolts.

This was taken while I was in the middle of removing the studs using two nuts tightened against each other.

Finished Product:

[dschup]

On to the next part, an oil bath air filter. I decided I really want to keep the stock appearance so I started collecting all the pieces and refreshing them.

Found one on the Samba classifieds.

I took this photo as a reference for the clips.

I figured out a way of clamping it to something to strip the paint on the outside. I wanted to keep the original red line on the inside. Unfortunately on the outside I couldn't keep the printed text due to damage that had to be hammered flat.

I put this piece in a vinegar solution to remove the rust. Is there supposed to be a captive nut on one side of the clamp?

A good way to put the clips back on is to press each side together as you insert one side, then pull the other side into place stretching it around the outside.

All clean in semi-gloss black. I also replaced the seal in the elbow that attaches to the bus.

[EverettB]

[dschup]

Thanks for the pics, that makes sense and reminded me I have the exact screw and nut on a beetle oil bath filter on the shelf.

[dschup]

I started gaining some traction with the longblock. I installed the doghouse oil cooler, fuel pump and alternator stand. Looks like the alternator will just clear the pump. I will probably grind off a little metal on the alternator to get a little more room. Permatex aviation form-a-gasket was used for the fuel pump and alt stand.

[Longboardluv]

coming along nicely

[dschup]

Thanks, its getting there. I'm starting to work on this repair next. Fortunately I have a replacement piece that, with a little massaging, will work.

I carefully used a dremel with a cutting disc to shave material. I would grind at an angle with little pressure until the metal gets thin and discolored. Between that and a chisel, I was able to remove the metal i don't need. Unfortunately both the bus and this piece has the same problem, excess metal leftover that must be cut out. I would rather have this problem than the alternative, having no metal.

I think welding it back will be easiest if it's just welded it around the horizontal seam between the two pieces rather than along the factory spot welds which would be hidden. The vertical portion could be plug welded. Let me know if there are any better theories as I'm guessing.

Here is the piece with the parcel tray metal removed along the bottom. I still have to clean and straighten it. I'll probably cut out and patch the rusted out potion once everything is together.

Also fitted the alternator properly and have plenty of room for the fuel pump.

[Culito]

Strange hack around the gas filler. Wonder what that was about.

Nice work so far!
_________________
Copyright CJ Industries, Inc.
'64 standard w/2.0L type 4
'62 bug

[EverettB]

[Longboardluv]

[dschup]

I found the pics of when the previous, previous owner had the "trailer". The previous owner put a bunch of work into fixing the dash, bulkhead, transaxle, and probably a bunch of other things I haven't noticed yet. Still a ways to go.

Note the trailer hitch on the front and wiring leading in through the nose.

Gutted...

Check out the straight axle RGB's

Truly a Trailer Queen!

[dschup]

A little but of progress with the engine. Getting closer, I'm just missing a few small bits at this point and then its ready once the welding in the engine area is taken care of.

Heater boxes and lower tin going in next.

[dschup]

Ok, so being able to weld (Or at least try)is worth its weight in gold. I'm getting better and its great to be able to just go out and fix something.

I previously installed a new engine lid, but it didn't come with the bracket for the stay attached. I removed one from another engine lid I'm not using and here are the results. Replaced the rollers as well.

I used Rustoleum Satin Coastal Grey to paint the welded area, it seems to be a very close match to the primer on the engine lid. The lid is from Wolfsburg west

[nineteensixtyfiveVG]

What a crazy setup that this was used as an actual trailer. That is so strange really. How did they set it up so the front wheels didnt turn? Would be so cool to see pics of it as it actually was used as a trailer.

Nice project.

[dschup]

The wheels were somehow connected to the tongue for the hitch and would steer with whatever was pulling it.

[Busstom]

P.S.A.: Yeah, you never want to tie and restrain the steering tires on a vehicle being flat-towed. At a minimum, it would cause scrubbing of the front tires during turns...at worst, it can track away from the tow vehicle in a turn and break free, or even worse, if the hitch arrangement is strong enough, flip the tow vehicle (happened to my next-door neighbor). Just let front wheels steer freely when flat-towing, they'll be fine and track right behind the vehicle.

[dschup]

Ok, back to the gapping hole by the fuel tank...

I ended up trimming the replacement piece to fit because I wasn't able to grind off what was leftover on the bus itself on the parcel tray. You can see the lip of the original metal in the pic.

One of there problems I had was lining up and straightening metal. Both the bus and the replacement piece weren't exactly cherry in this area. I straightened everything as much as I could and then used self tapping sheet metal screws to bring the pieces together. This worked well for the most part although I had to add a few at the top. Once the piece was screwed in and the piece that holds the filler neck was pushed against the replacement piece, it actually lined up very well.

When I trimed the bottom of the replacement piece, I had to guess when to stop and I went a little too far. That led to the large amount of weld material around the bottom. Also, the replacement piece was rusty on the right side which left a large gap that I simply filled in with puddled weld material. Some of the welds on the left side turned out ok.

Here is the mostly finished result. I plan on going back and grinding this down to make it look nicer even though it will be covered with a closet.

Personally, this felt great to get in place on my own. I wasn't sure how it was going to end up. Best advice so far is to just go do it rather than look at it over and over like I seemed to have been doing. I'm using a 110v Lincoln Handy-Mig with gas.

Thanks for following along.

[Bulli Klinik]

You need to turn your welder up and get in some more practice before doing much more welding on that Bus.

What do you have your settings at on the welder? Maybe you can take a picture?
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[dschup]

Thanks for the frank feedback. There are only 4 settings, 1 or 2 and Hi or Low. There also a wire feed setting from 1 to 10. I think I was trying this on 2, Low with a wire speed of 7. I was afraid of burning through if I used the 2, High setting. Yes, the gas was turned on.

The plug welds seemed to go ok and I think it really looks worse than it actually is. I may have been fighting the gap more than anything which lead to the large amount of weld material. I will definitely practice before I tackle the next part, engine shelves.

Here is a link to what I have.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-88-Am.../100596739

[Bulli Klinik]

I admire anyone who wants to dive in and fix a vintage Bus. It's no easy task, but I think a little practice and dialing in of the settings will make your finished product come out much nicer.

Though I didn't see the welder in your link, I would suggest turning it to the high setting, especially for plug welds. You can dial in the wire speed setting once you get some practice welding hotter. It's very clear your welds aren't flowing out from your photos.

Instead of holding the trigger and running the weld as you would on thicker material, pulse the trigger for just under a full second and hold it in place, then move over just a bit and pulse it again to cover about a third of the last weld. You can weld fairly quickly like this; zap, zap zap...

Fitment is key to a good weld. Always try to fit your panels with minimal gaps. Minimal means not wider that the width of your welding wire. This is what takes the time but makes for a quality weld joint.

Find a local metal supplier and pick up some small cut-off of 18 and 20 gauge to practice with. Fit them together, tack and try different settings of wire speed. A little up a little down, etc. DIAL IT IN on the scrap and not the Bus.

I weld almost daily and I still test the settings on a piece of scrap prior to welding on a project.
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs