Missing distributor spring causes no spark?

[73ThugBug]

Hey guys, need some help figuring out a spark issue with my ‘73 beetle. It randomly stoped making a spark after the ignition coil. I took the distributor apart to replace the points and noticed there was only one spring instead of 2. (Image attached) I know that other distributors have two springs here and wanted to make sure that there is one missing. Could this be the cause of the lack of spark? I will not finish replacing the points until tonight so I won’t know if that is the solution or not for a little while. So, could that missing spring cause issues or is it okay to run the car without it? (I could not find the spring anywhere). If I need a new one, where is the best place to buy one? Thank you in advance.

[hazetguy]

if it's an 009 (looks like it), it only uses one spring.
and you don't have to take the distributor apart that far just to change the points.
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[73ThugBug]

Yes, it’s a 009.
And yes, you don’t have to take it apart to change the points, I just wanted to clean it out because it never has been and had a slight build up of dirt inside.

[hazetguy]

make sure the advance mechanism is working too.

but to answer your question, a missing spring isn't going to cause a no-spark situation.
_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[David_nc_72std]

[TDCTDI]

Check to see if the little graphite button is still in the cap, I've also seen the rotors ground to the distributor shaft.
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[VW_Jimbo]

[Pruneman99]

Ive never removed a points plate with the distributor still installed. Might as well pull it out and rebuild it. You're halfway there.

[73ThugBug]

I cleaned out the iniside of the distributor, like I said it had a lot of debris. I replaced the points and that solved the spark issue.
But now when I turn the key, it turns over but with no spark until I let off on the key to its regular running position. After a few tries it will start, and run but it only starts when I let off of the key like I said before.
From my research I found that this is likely a failure in either the starter taking all the battery’s power, or the connections in the key housing are bad, any thoughts?

[Cusser]

[bobinphx]

or as a test, you can run a wire from the positive of the battery directly to the positive connection of the coil. Then run around to the drivers seat and try to start the motor with the key. If it starts right up, you know you have an issue with power to the coil on startup. In that case it is most likely the ignition switch.
If it still does not start right, you may have an issue with the battery or the something else like points or fuel cutoff or???

Dont leave the coil attached to the battery directly for too long with the engine not running. It could overheat the coil.

[ashman40]

Follow Cusser’s instructions. Take a voltage reading at the ignition coil #15 terminal WHILE the engine is cranking.
Low voltage means the wiring resistance is too high or the battery is too weak. When the starter is drawing current there is not enough left to make it to the ignition coil so it stops firing. If you test while the engine is NOT cranking all is well.

If you find NO voltage at the #15 while the starter is cranking it could be two things....

1) The ignition switch electrical connections inside the ignition switch are bad. You need to rebuild or replace your ignition switch (electrical)

2) The wrong circuit has been wired to the ignition coil. There are two OUTPUT wires from the ignition switch: black #15 and black/yellow #X. The #15 circuit normally powers the ignition coil. But there have been cases where the PO will incorrectly wire the #X circuit to the ignition coil. The #X circuit is specifically designed to NOT have power when the key is in the START position. This circuits powers the headlights and wipers which are not critical for starting the engine. But the ignition coil MUST be powered from the #15 circuit which has 12v in both the ON/RUN position and the START position. Sometimes you will find the PO using the #X as an alternate when the #15 circuit fails.

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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[73ThugBug]

Thank y’all for the help. After some research I deduced that the issue is coming from the ignition switch and will be replaced.