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1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 8:35 pm    Post subject: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Hello!

I just got this Eurovan Westy Weekender .
I had a 93 Eurovan before but I'm more comfortable working on a Vanagon...


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The first owner sold it to me for scrap money, they bought it new in Germany in 1999. ( Stationed Military).

It is quite rusty, it took a lot of cleaning too.

The battery was very low and didn't hold the charge anymore so we jumped started it and he drove it to my place.
I swapped the battery for a good battery I had laying around that fit like a glove, out of a Jetta MKIV.

I had a hell of a time re starting the van.

I read online about various throttle body adaptation fairy tales needed after replacing a battery. I do not have VagCom to perform a legit throttle adaptation alignment and found out my OBD2 reader (ELM327) version is not supported anymore.
I just can't believe I need to do it since the old battery was dead for months before, same thing as replacing the battery...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The van starts fine every time now like it has an automatic choke, goes to higher rpms, goes down a little and then is dying or having terrible idle, if I touch the accelerator, I have to feather it to get higher rpms when not driving (P or N). It basically runs like crap, either like it has a VW Immotronic preventing it to be able to run properly, or something else.
If I insist, idle stabilizes but he'll it runs rich!!

I unplugged the Air Flow Sensor, it doesn't change anything, it smells very rich even when I get it to finally idle.

Could it be the airflow sensor?

Also, I cannot open the rear hatch in any position of the lock. It feels like it's not catching anything inside when I press the latch. Is there a trick to access the mechanism ? I cannot pull the door card off without opening the hatch.... Awesome....

Thanks guys!
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CdnVWJunkie Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:06 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Hey Alika,

Nice score for what sounds like cheap $.

These T4s are as, or more, susceptible to poor grounds and positive leads. I'd start there.

I would highly recommend VCDS. Rather than chase your tail and potentially purchase parts you don't need, spend the $ on this.



In regards to the rear hatch. I've BTDT. Most likely you're going to have to pull the inner door card. It's very likely the hatch has not been opened in a very long time and the inner linkage is seized. YOu'll have to slide the rear seat forward on the tracks. Pull up the bed foam and lift the rear bed base. LIkely you may also have to remove the bed platform legs so you can pull the inner card inwards. When you have the inner door card off I'd suggest you also take the rear wiper motor and linkage off, totally disassemble, lube, test and re-install. On rustier units I've worked on, they tend to get tight and will actually seize up and fry the motor.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 3:52 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

You can’t troubleshoot modern engines by disconnecting stuff and seeing what happens. The high idle is normal operation on later T4s with air injection, I don’t know about the 99. If it has that system, the only problem is a bad idle...evaluate fuel and ignition parts as usual. Check idle air valve and rubber for splits, holes by removing it and inspection. “I looked at it”is useless information and of no value in troubleshooting.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 6:30 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Congrats on the score! Definitely get yourself the VCDS to diagnose VR6 era vans
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:07 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

You need to learn the proper technique for lowering the poptop so that you don't damage the canvas.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 10:39 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

CdnVWJunkie wrote:
Hey Alika, Aloha Very Happy

Nice score for what sounds like cheap $.

These T4s are as, or more, susceptible to poor grounds and positive leads. I'd start there.
It is rather rusty everywhere, good idea.
I would highly recommend VCDS. Rather than chase your tail and potentially purchase parts you don't need, spend the $ on this.

I know VCDS is the cream, I`m just broke as hell right now, can`t spare that cash, I just can`t believe it runs like crap just for a battery change Rolling Eyes



In regards to the rear hatch. I've BTDT. Most likely you're going to have to pull the inner door card. I thought this couldn`t be done with the hatch closed? On my 93 there were 2 screws on the side. I will look again. It's very likely the hatch has not been opened in a very long time and the inner linkage is seized. Believe or not, the guy opened it minutes before driving it to me, this thing is haunted Laughing YOu'll have to slide the rear seat forward on the tracks. Pull up the bed foam and lift the rear bed base. LIkely you may also have to remove the bed platform legs so you can pull the inner card inwards. When you have the inner door card off I'd suggest you also take the rear wiper motor and linkage off, totally disassemble, lube, test and re-install. On rustier units I've worked on, they tend to get tight and will actually seize up and fry the motor.Got it


Thank you very much for the help Razz

Abscate wrote:
You can’t troubleshoot modern engines by disconnecting stuff and seeing what happens. Well, it might end up in parts then, I hate modern engines Laughing The high idle is normal operation on later T4s with air injection, I don’t know about the 99.I looked it up, it has it, a big black plastic pump. If it has that system, the only problem is a bad idle not only, I just cannot accelerate without the van choking.This happened right after replacing the battery, it must be related, I hope Mad ...evaluate fuel and ignition parts as usual. Check idle air valve and rubber for splits, holes by removing it and inspection.Ok, will do today, I already replaced all the vacuum tubing preventively but it didn`t solve anything. “I looked at it”is useless information and of no value in troubleshooting.I didn`t look at anything, the van threw the first stone Laughing


Thank you Abscate for your help Cool

Zeitgeist 13 wrote:
Congrats on the score! Definitely get yourself the VCDS to diagnose VR6 era vans


Thank you Casey! I`m broke, I wish I had one to help, but I`ll tell you what, it doesn`t find everything. I had a Tdi Jetta with no air flow sensor code or anything related.I bought it with a bent valve.I rebuilt the engine and resealed the injection pump.Tried to drive it, it would barely go over 20MPH, slowly. Impossible to accelerate past 2200 rpm on P or N until I insisted with the foot floored for a few seconds, then it would magically jump to red zone and work fine. After that, I could drive the car no problem, just had to do it every time I had to start it. I had vagcom plugged in, I brought it to a VW specialist, I asked on forums. Nothing solved it. Took me 2 years to bit the bullet and replace the air flow sensor and it solved it.How did it go bad while having the engine apart non running? Really makes me hate modern engines and their ghosts.
For such stupid case of removing a battery and having coincidentally issues, I`m very careful of spending money on a diag tool with no extra dollar to spare. Heck, I didn`t even want this van, but it was going to the crusher and I couldn`t let him do it. Laughing I was hoping it would be something stupid and obvious to Eurovan owners. Next step, trying to read codes. Aloha!

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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

TDCTDI wrote:
You need to learn the proper technique for lowering the poptop so that you don't damage the canvas.


Please tell me how, it is really a PITA to fold it in as you lower the roof compared to a Vanagon Westy, and the backside is also problematic.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 5:51 pm    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Hey guys!

Some updates:

I connected a cheap scanner since I can't use VCDS lite with my cable somehow.

I got P1239 and P0303 which are related to a misfire on cylinder 3.

Where is the location of the injectors main harness to test the resistance of #3 please?

I had P0102 MAF sensor but was able to clear it, prolly appeared from disconnecting it to test some running differences,the other codes don't clear, even engine not ran after scanning/clearing.
Such as P0715 transmission speed sensor.

What do the little letters after the code mean, such as p and d?

Turns out the air pump was blocked. It was a major pita to remove it, 2 out 3 bolts were seized, stripped head. Same for the bracket, one that goes through the manifold was seized. It was easier to work on this one.
Full of rust inside, I forced it by hand from the motor shaft, then ran it backwards. It is pumping fine now. Gotta replace the hose to the air intake box, it is baked and falls in pieces.You can see the rust scales on the floor.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.





Also, I looked for an hour online, Impossible to find the goddamn fusible links application in the engine bay.

I know the fan ones, but that's it.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What is this 30amp blade for, driver's side fender?


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What is this fusible link for ? ABS module?

Mahalozzzz Smile
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JMB3
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:18 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Regarding the strip fuses, I have the one on the side as Secondary Air Injection Pump in the wiki

https://vweurovan.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Strip_Fuses

The ABS module on my '97 looks different than these later ones.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Hey man!

Thanks for your answer! It must be it, I replaced it and fixed the air pump and now it works.

The van still runs like crap when I accelerate by hand, it chokes and runs very rich, sometimes backfires. If I pump the throttle super fast, I can get it to accelerate much higher rpms but that's it.

I unplugged the fuel pressure regulator, no difference.

That's pretty much it for my Eurovan diagnostic skills.

I managed to pop the bed board out of the way, but I cannot pull the rear door card, same as phase 1 Eurovans, there are indeed 2 side screws that are accessible only when open,so I still can't open the rear hatch....

I don't how anybody can enjoy wrenching on these POS. Everything is a struggle or is made out of brittle baked plastic.
I'm debating selling it for parts or enjoy a nice Eurovan firework for Independance Day Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:23 am    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

I think you'll have to cut a hole in the door card in order to access the latch mechanism. The '93 models had an inside release handle that was deleted in the later models. I added a cord to the mechanism and just pull on it to release the hatch from the inside. You should be able to access the mechanism midway down the hatch at roughly where the outside handle sits.

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[edit] I guess I should mention that this same issue recently cropped up on my T3 and I ended up destroying the rear door card trying to remove it while reaching over all the crap I had stored in the van while I was working on the engine swap. Now I'm kicking myself for not making up an interior latch when I fabbed up a new card.
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ALIKA T3
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 4:19 pm    Post subject: Re: 1999 VR6 Eurovan battery replaced> problems Reply with quote

Hi Casey!

Thanks for the picture!
Funny you mentioned the early T4's, my old one just came back to me for free. Will fix it and resell it. Damn, all the EV come to me, nobody wants em, lol!!
I managed to open the hatch. Squirted tons of penetrating oil from the inside pull handle hole , key hole and from under. It finally released and I was able to pull open. It looks like it was seized in an intermediate position where the handle didn't release anything.
I give up on having it running, I'm starting it and it dies after 2 seconds, really hard to get it to stay running by pumping on the throttle at key moments.

I got too many vans, just got 4 in a months , will concentrate on what I know already: Vanagon Wink

Sad to hear about your door card. Some of these panel clips make it impossible to pull the card without ruining it, I choose to guillotine them now with a homemade wood chisel, and buy new clips Smile

Aloha and may the forth be with you.
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