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Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

If the input shaft is the correct length. Your good to go.
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
I wasn't able to rotate the selector shaft but I was able to pull it out.
In the Neutral position you should be able to rotate the shaft without too much effort. You may need vise grips to hold the shift lever.
Make sure you can rotate it before you put the tranny in.

When I put the nose cone back on I made sure all the selector keys were the same height (so it should have been in neutral, right).
That would be Neutral.

I also measured the bellhousing from the base to the starter flange and it measured 3 1/4" which should mean I have a 091 bellhousing and therefore a larger 228mm flywheel and the longer starter, correct?
Should be. But measure the clutch disc to be sure.
This is a 200mm disc
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When I put the nose cone on I inserted the hockey stick into the ball joint.

I measured the clutch disc and it measured 228mm.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

I wasn't able to rotate the selector shaft but I was able to pull it out.
In the Neutral position you should be able to rotate the shaft without too much effort. You may need vise grips to hold the shift lever.
Make sure you can rotate it before you put the tranny in.

When I put the nose cone back on I made sure all the selector keys were the same height (so it should have been in neutral, right).
That would be Neutral.

I also measured the bellhousing from the base to the starter flange and it measured 3 1/4" which should mean I have a 091 bellhousing and therefore a larger 228mm flywheel and the longer starter, correct?
Should be. But measure the clutch disc to be sure.
This is a 200mm disc
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
Shane - the case on an 091 is better than the 002. If your 002 works then you can sell it after you find an 091. The best place to have a 091 rebuilt is Eric at Transworks in El Cajon CA, down near AeroMech. That comes from Rick Long when he retired. 091 come up for sale all the time - you just won't know what condition they are in until you either run it or someone like Eric takes it apart. There is one in Elverta in CL right now. Offer the guy $450 and see if he will take that or $100 more since he can't guarantee it works. Lots of sandrail folks buy them. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/vw-busrib-transmission/6631355808.html



I saw that ad, it looks like it's already dropped $50.

Is this the same place? The website says prices haven't been updated since 2007 and it lists the rebuild price of $400 which seems ridiculously cheap.

http://www.transworks.biz/rebuilt.html
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Well, being the noob that I am, I have no idea of I did it right but I counted ~5.75:1.

I wasn't able to rotate the selector shaft but I was able to pull it out. I'm not sure how much force is required to rotate it but pliers didn't help. When I put the nose cone back on I made sure all the selector keys were the same height (so it should have been in neutral, right).


I also measured the bellhousing from the base to the starter flange and it measured 3 1/4" which should mean I have a 091 bellhousing and therefore a larger 228mm flywheel and the longer starter, correct?
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Shane - the case on an 091 is better than the 002. If your 002 works then you can sell it after you find an 091. The best place to have a 091 rebuilt is Eric at Transworks in El Cajon CA, down near AeroMech. That comes from Rick Long when he retired. 091 come up for sale all the time - you just won't know what condition they are in until you either run it or someone like Eric takes it apart. There is one in Elverta in CL right now. Offer the guy $450 and see if he will take that or $100 more since he can't guarantee it works. Lots of sandrail folks buy them. https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/vw-busrib-transmission/6631355808.html
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 5:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:

Ok that sounds easy enough but how do I put in fourth gear? Push in the top selector key?


Put the nose cone back on. The nose cone has to go on with the transmission in neutral.

Looking at the nose cone end. Rotate the selector shaft counter clock wise and pull out on it. That is 4th
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 3:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
ivwshane wrote:

So my question now is; if that's possible then how the hell do I know if that's what I have now?!

Possible but unlikely.
Put the trans in 4th gear.
Turn the cv hub (ring) 1 revolution.
While counting how many times the input shaft (pinion) turns.

These are the R&P ratios.
Example 68-72 5.37:1 so for every 1 revolution of the Ring gear the Pinion turns 5.37 times.
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Good luck
Tcash


Ok that sounds easy enough but how do I put in fourth gear? Push in the top selector key?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 2:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:

So my question now is; if that's possible then how the hell do I know if that's what I have now?!

Possible but unlikely.
Put the trans in 4th gear.
Turn the cv hub (ring) 1 revolution.
While counting how many times the input shaft (pinion) turns.

These are the R&P ratios.
Example 68-72 5.37:1 so for every 1 revolution of the Ring gear the Pinion turns 5.37 times.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good luck
Tcash
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ivwshane
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 12:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Oh boy my head hurts!

So I've gotten many quotes about rancho transmissions and the email I received from rancho just kills me.

I explained that I don't have a 091 now and asked if I could purchase a 091 outright. He said they could build me a 091 using a 002 case.

So my question now is; if that's possible then how the hell do I know if that's what I have now?!
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Sealant 3 oz. tube
Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases.
http://www.bowessealfast.com/p-579-permatex-81182-...BAQAvD_BwE
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 3:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

There are probably dozens of sealants that would work. In the past I’ve used red rtv. Today I would use Permatex anerobic
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 12:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

the 002 is geared lower so that the engine runs faster on the smaller engines. The 091 is bigger, stronger and the gears are such that the engine runs a little slower - making a better use of power and efficiency.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:58 am    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

So how the hell would one know what their engine is?

I felt like my bus was driving great already so what difference would I experience if I had a 091 trans?

@SGKent, thanks for Reply. Is there any special type of RTV I should be using? Something for an automatic? Blue rtv is what's on it now. I guess it's kind of a moot point if I need to buy a new transmission.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:48 am    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

I’m sure Rancho and Mofoco are fine. Also, even if the engine started life as an 1800, who knows what it is today.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 6:59 am    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Shane - you should have a GD engine with either solid or hydraulic lifters depending on when it was made. The trans should be an 091. Your 002 trans is geared too low for a 2L engine. According to Rick Long, you can use a paper gasket on one side and RTV on the other if you wish.

To be clear - EVERY bay trans that VW made has the issue where the bearing eats into the nosecone. The 091 uses a half moon key to hold the bearing and slow the process. Know those threads where folks complain their trans pops out of 4th gear? That is caused by bearing allowing the gear components to change alignment as that bearing moves into the nosecone. The steel plate is the best solution at this point. You can have the gear carrier sleeved when the trans is completely apart to help slow the process also. We are talking some very special tools to take one of these transmissions apart.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 5:01 am    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

THall wrote:
ivwshane wrote:
Any issues with rancho or mofoco?




Let me back up for a second because I assumed many things about my bus that have turned out not to be true.

For example, my engine case has a GE number on it. That is a 1.8L, correct? For a 77 a stock engine should be a 2.0L WITH a CV engine code, correct?

So for a 1.8L with a GE code, what is the correct transmission it should have?


GD - 1976-77 Bus, 2.0 liter, L-Jetronic, Solid Lifter
GE - 1978-79 Bus, 2.0 liter, L-Jetronic, Hydraulic Lifter (1978: oval exhaust ports / 1979: square ports.)
CV - 1980-83 Vanagon, 2.0 liter, L-Jetronic, Hydraulic Lifter

The 091...Aka the 6-rib are found in '76-'79 Bus.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 4:56 am    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

ivwshane wrote:
Any issues with rancho or mofoco?




Let me back up for a second because I assumed many things about my bus that have turned out not to be true.

For example, my engine case has a GE number on it. That is a 1.8L, correct? For a 77 a stock engine should be a 2.0L WITH a CV engine code, correct?

So for a 1.8L with a GE code, what is the correct transmission it should have?


GD - 1976-77 Bus, 2.0 liter, L-Jetronic, Solid Lifter
GE - 1978-79 Bus, 2.0 liter, L-Jetronic, Hydraulic Lifter (1978: oval exhaust ports / 1979: square ports.)
CV - 1980-83 Vanagon, 2.0 liter, L-Jetronic, Hydraulic Lifter
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 11:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Any issues with rancho or mofoco?




Let me back up for a second because I assumed many things about my bus that have turned out not to be true.

For example, my engine case has a GE number on it. That is a 1.8L, correct? For a 77 a stock engine should be a 2.0L WITH a CV engine code, correct?

So for a 1.8L with a GE code, what is the correct transmission it should have?
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Sealing the nose cone (with steel plate)? Reply with quote

Ok, so you have a 1977 with a 2L engine? Some hack installed a three rib 002 at some point? You need to find a good 091 six rib to make this right. Problem is they aren’t just sold by Autozone. You’ll need to source one. Here’s a few businesses to call after you check the samba classifieds.

Weddle
KRC
Transworks
The bus box

I’m sure others can add to this list.
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