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No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help
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Bob Brugge
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:05 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates! Reply with quote

Ashman,

First I discovered that the ears on the female spade terminals are way too subject to brittleness, the black/green/white wire that runs to the turn signal switch has no power. I replaced the end on it and it still has no power. It is like the power refuses to flow that way from the flasher.

The other things I learned are that my flasher unit is good and that you have to have a light on the dash to make the hazards work. I repaired the wiring going to the indicator light on the speedo head and bam! 4 ways. using my multimeter to test current where the current splits at the flasher, 49A? I get no juice from it when the blinkers are turned on and the key. I know I have at least one good grounds, so I should at least get something from that light, shouldn't I? Is it still a ground issue? The current should be able to go through on the blinkers if it can go through on the 4 ways...
What do I poke at next?
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates! Reply with quote

OK here is my nightmare...
Shiny new ends!
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what do these do?
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Why do I have one under my back seat?

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Now there are some hacks so before anyone gets critical...
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Starter wire that goes with
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my fix on my turn signals that still aren't fixed
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At this wire, I get 6 volts with the key on and the blinker off.

I get 12 volts thru the white wire here, and my flashers work across the relay, that's where the understanding stops on my part.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I get 11.94 ish volts at the black wire, both ends, 6 volts at the 49a junction with the flashers off and the key on. Turning either turn signal on kills that 6 volts completely...
Help?
Yes I know my wiring harness is just this side of F-Dup.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates! Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:
First I discovered that the ears on the female spade terminals are way too subject to brittleness,

They ARE 40+ years old. If they are brittle, snip the end off and crimp a new one on so you get another 40yrs of use.

Bob Brugge wrote:
the black/green/white wire that runs to the turn signal switch has no power. I replaced the end on it and it still has no power. It is like the power refuses to flow that way from the flasher.

You will need to explain this further....
Here is your pic of your flasher relay:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If it is the correct relay it should have three terminals:
    #49 (+) = INPUT which is powered from the E-Flasher switch via the white wire. I think you confirmed there is 12v here, correct?
    #31 = GROUND. There should be a brown wire connected here providing the relay a ground connection. I don't see any brown wires in your pic only two blue wires. What's going on here??
    #49a = pulsing OUTPUT. Three wires should connect to this terminal...
    1) wire to the #49a terminal of the E-Flasher switch
    2) black/green/white wire to the turn signal switch
    3) blue/red wire to the turn signal indicator lamp in the speedo


Is it possible you have your turn signal bulb in the speedo incorrectly wired to the #31 terminal on the flasher relay? ID which colored wire connects to each terminal on the flasher relay and where that wire runs?

Bob Brugge wrote:
The other things I learned are that my flasher unit is good and that you have to have a light on the dash to make the hazards work. I repaired the wiring going to the indicator light on the speedo head and bam! 4 ways.

This doesn't make sense?!?!
Make sure the other end of the blue/red turn signal indicator lamp wire ends at the #49a terminal of the flasher relay (or one of the wires connected to #49a). I'm worried your blue/red wire instead runs to the #31 terminal of the flasher relay which is wrong.
Do the following... remove the bulb from the turn signal lamp bulb holder and re-insert the empty bulb holder into the speedo. This disables the blue/red turn signal indicator.
The turn signal lamps in the corners should still work fine. The corner lights are NOT dependent on the speedo indicator lamp. Once you get all the corner lights working as expected, come back and reinstall the indicator lamp into the speedo.

Bob Brugge wrote:
using my multimeter to test current where the current splits at the flasher, 49A? I get no juice from it when the blinkers are turned on and the key.

Please provide more details how you are testing current? How have you set your multimeter and where have you connected the probes? Are you trying to read VoltsDC or Amps??? If your meter is set to read amps you need to connect it INLINE with the circuit you are testing. This means disconnecting the black/green/white wire from the #49a terminal of the flasher relay. Connect one of your MM probes to the #49a terminal and the other probe to the end of the black/green/white wire. All current passing thru the wire must first pass thru the meter. THIS is how you test current in a circuit. If your meter is set to read amps and you are connecting it some different way... you are not testing current in the circuit.

Bob Brugge wrote:
I know I have at least one good grounds, so I should at least get something from that light, shouldn't I? Is it still a ground issue? The current should be able to go through on the blinkers if it can go through on the 4 ways...

If you are still having trouble after making sure your flasher relay is properly wired do the following....
    First, make sure you have removed the turn signal indicator lamp bulb from the holder to disable the speedo indicator. You don't want the speedo indicator lamp installed for this test.
    Completely disconnect the wires from the flasher relay.
    Using a clamp, connect the white INPUT wire that was connected to #49 to the OUTPUT wires that were connected to #49a. This effectively BYPASSED the flasher relay. Don't let this junction touch any metal/ground.
    Turn the ignition switch ON.
    With the E-flasher switch OFF, test the end of the white wire where it connects to the OUTPUT wires. You should get a solid 12v reading.
    Move your turn signal lever to the LEFT turn position and test the 4-wire junction where the black/white wires come together (upper left in the above pic). You should get the same 12v reading. All the turn signal switch is doing is passing the voltage from the black/green/white wire to the black/white wire. The turn signals in the left front/back corners should turn on solid.
    Test the right side lights the same way, but test for voltage at the black/green wire 4-wire junction. You should get the same 12v reading.
    Tale notice if one or more lights are a different brightness that the others. This could indicate a bad bulb or bad wiring.
    Center the turn signal lever.
    With the ignition still ON, turn the E-Flasher switch ON. All four corner lamps should turn ON solid.
    Turn the ignition switch OFF, but leave the E-Flasher switch ON. The four corner lamps should remain ON.

If all of the above work as described then your flasher and turn signal wiring is correct.
Re-install the flasher relay. Double check the wires are connected correctly matching the wiring diagram.
Re-run the same tests above. The only difference should be the lights now pulse instead of stay ON solid.
If this test works as described, as a last step reconnect the turn signal indicator lamp in the speedo.
Re-run your tests. What you should notice is that with the ignition ON... the turn indicator lamp flashes in opposite cadence with the corner lamps. With the ignition OFF and the E-Flasher switch ON, the speedo indicator becomes a 5th turn signal lamp and flashed in cadence with the corners.

Report back your findings.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 11:56 am    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

ok, do I understand correctly that I need all three wires running to 49a and a ground running from # 31? lemme go do that....
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 12:29 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:
ok, do I understand correctly that I need all three wires running to 49a and a ground running from # 31? lemme go do that....

#31 in VW wiring is ALWAYS ground. So the #31 terminal of the flasher relay needs to be wired directly to ground. It should be a solid brown wire.
If you have a blue wire connected to your #31 terminal I would highly suggest you replace it with a brown wire. I thought I saw in one of your pics a loose brown wire. If this runs to a ground point (there are male ground tabs behind the dash and the speedo hold down screw usually has a male ground tab).

#49a runs to three (3) different things:
- turn signal switch INPUT
- E-Flasher switch #49a INPUT
- turn signal indicator lamp (this is BOTH INPUT AND OUTPUT)

If your 3-prong flasher relay wiring is anything other than this... it is wrong.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 12:50 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

Son of a Gun, I have blinkers. But now I lost my hazards. How are all three of those wires supposed to fit on 49a? I have a 2 into 1 stacked on another 2 into 1. I am nearly positive that this creative wiring has something to do with it. I attached 39 to ground. now I have blinkers.

I did have the light that goes to the speedo head wired to 39. the ground on the speedo head must have been what made the 4 ways work.

You asked about my multimeter. I set it to 12 volts. I stuff the red probe into the connection I am trying to test. I then find a hopefully good ground, like the speedo head. I use the black probe on that and read the voltage. easy peasy.
amps and ohms are a complete mystery to me.

No lights shine brighter, at least not noticeably. 4 ways dont work with the key on or off.

I did just pull all three wires from 49a. When I put the blue wire on the 49a connection, I get no 4 ways. When i put a single 2 into 1 on 49a and attach both the blue wire and the blue/red stripe for the speedo, i get nothing. if I swap the blue wire for the black/green/white wires, I get blinkers on both sides and on the speedo head, which is perfect...ish., hopefully it wont break down somewhere where I need my 4 ways. What could be going on? Using the mm on the white wire with the 4 ways turned on, I get nada. Doesn't matter if the key is on or not.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:18 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:
I did just pull all three wires from 49a. When I put the blue wire on the 49a connection, I get no 4 ways. When i put a single 2 into 1 on 49a and attach both the blue wire and the blue/red stripe for the speedo, i get nothing. if I swap the blue wire for the black/green/white wires, I get blinkers on both sides and on the speedo head, which is perfect...ish.

Tip#1... while trying to troubleshoot turn signals and E-Flashers, disconnect the speedo indicator lamp. It complicates the circuit and is the least important. Once everything is working (turn signals and E-Flashers) then you reconnect the indicator lamp and get it working. Some of the troubleshooting tests will NOT work if the speedo bulb is connected... THAT is how complicated it makes things.

Lets look at the Speedy Jim diagram once more:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Your wire colors are apparently different. I'm assuming your blue wire runs from the #49a terminal of the flasher relay to the #49a terminal of the E-Flasher switch. Have you confirmed this?? If so, it is the black/green/white wire that wraps around the top of the diagram and enters the right side of the E-Flasher switch.

The E-Flashers (4-ways) are powered by a different fuse (#30) than the turn signals (#15). You can see this by the two fuses in the diagram. So first you need to confirm that the #30 wire fuse (red wire) is bringing 12v to the E-Flasher switch. Test this wire. It will have constant 12v so nothing needs to be turned ON. If you don't have voltage at #30, check the E-Flasher fuse.
If there is voltage at the #30 wire, turn the E-Flasher switch ON and test for voltage at the #49 (+) terminal of the flasher relay. From the diagram you can see that when the E-Flasher is turned ON the #30 terminal is connected to the white wire that runs to the flasher relay.
If there is voltage at the #49 INPUT side of the flasher relay, check the voltage at the #49a OUTPUT terminal of the flasher relay AND the #49a terminal at the E-Flasher switch. There should be a pulsing 12v at these two points, though just the load of your voltmeter may not be enough to get the flasher flashing.

Based on your descriptions I think you will find a disconnect somewhere between the E-Flasher fuse and the flasher relay. Find this disconnected and fix.

You may try playing with the E-Flasher switch. Sometimes wiggling it can get it working again when it stops working.
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'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2018 4:04 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:


Lets look at the Speedy Jim diagram once more:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Your wire colors are apparently different. I'm assuming your blue wire runs from the #49a terminal of the flasher relay to the #49a terminal of the E-Flasher switch. Have you confirmed this??

confirmed. What are the blue dashed lines in the drawing?
ashman40 wrote:

If so, it is the black/green/white wire that wraps around the top of the diagram and enters the right side of the E-Flasher switch.

Not at all, the black/green/white wire starts at 49a and goes to the turn signal switch.
On mine, the red wire runs from the fuse panel to the 4 way switch, then the blue wire returns current to the 49a terminal on the flasher. from the 49a terminal; also starts the black/green/white wire running to the turn signal switch

ashman40 wrote:
The E-Flashers (4-ways) are powered by a different fuse (#30) than the turn signals (#15).


Got that part

ashman40 wrote:

You can see this by the two fuses in the diagram. So first you need to confirm that the #30 wire fuse (red wire) is bringing 12v to the E-Flasher switch.


Confirmed

ashman40 wrote:

If there is voltage at the #30 wire, turn the E-Flasher switch ON and test for voltage at the #49 (+) terminal of the flasher relay. From the diagram you can see that when the E-Flasher is turned ON the #30 terminal is connected to the white wire that runs to the flasher relay.


On mine the white wire runs from the 4 way switch to the flasher and has power when the switch is on, but I get nothing on 49a despite the fact that the blinkers work quite well.
ashman40 wrote:

If there is voltage at the #49 INPUT side of the flasher relay, check the voltage at the #49a OUTPUT terminal of the flasher relay AND the #49a terminal at the E-Flasher switch. There should be a pulsing 12v at these two points, though just the load of your voltmeter may not be enough to get the flasher flashing.

Based on your descriptions I think you will find a disconnect somewhere between the E-Flasher fuse and the flasher relay. Find this disconnected and fix.

You may try playing with the E-Flasher switch. Sometimes wiggling it can get it working again when it stops working.


When the circuit was grounded through the speedo head via the indicator light the 4 ways worked fine. That's what I don't understand. How can the circuit work just fine wired improperly and not at all when properly wired? I will poke at it some more in a bit. Could the fact that my left side brake and tail light quit working again be significant?
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2018 11:23 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:
What are the blue dashed lines in the drawing?

The blue lines represent the two switches.
The left blue box is the turn signal switch. When you move the lever and connect the black/green/white INPUT wire to one of the OUTPUT wires you complete the circuit. In the center position the switch is not in contact with either OUTPUT wire.

The right blue box is the E-Flasher switch. It is best to think of the E-flasher switch as two separate switches that both move when you turn the switch OFF/ON. When the switch is OFF, the #15 fuse powers the white wire. This fuse is ONLY powered while the ignition is ON so the turn signals cannot work while the ignition is OFF. The #49a terminal and the L and R terminals are not connected.
When the switch is turned ON, the white wire is instead powered by the #30 fuse which has constant 12v allowing the E-Flasher (4-way) to work with or w/o the ignition switch being ON. Also, the #49a is now connected to the L and R OUTPUT wires. This allows the current coming from the #49a to be passed to BOTH the left and right side corner lamps.


Bob Brugge wrote:
On mine, the red wire runs from the fuse panel to the 4 way switch, then the blue wire returns current to the 49a terminal on the flasher. from the 49a terminal

You are confused and are thinking the wire works in reverse. The E-Flasher switch powers the flasher relay. The flasher relay powers the corner lamps thru the turn signal switch OR the E-Flasher switch (bottom half in the diagram). Current on your blue wire is coming FROM the flasher relay and RETURNS to the E-Flasher switch to be directed to the L and R wires (this is the function of the second half of the E-Flasher switch). The current on this blue wire is only used when the E-Flasher switch is ON.
The current entering the E-Flasher switch from the fuses stays in the upper half of the switch in the diagram. The current goes OUT to the flasher relay before coming BACK IN via the #49a. Look at the diagram and you will see what I mean. When the E-Flasher switch is ON that current coming IN on the #49a terminal is passed back out on BOTH the L and R terminals to power all four corner lamps.

If you are confused, I don’t blame you. This is a rather convoluted way to save $$ by using only ONE flasher relay to power BOTH the 4-way system and the turn signals and reuse the same wiring.


Bob Brugge wrote:
ashman40 wrote:

If there is voltage at the #30 wire, turn the E-Flasher switch ON and test for voltage at the #49 (+) terminal of the flasher relay. From the diagram you can see that when the E-Flasher is turned ON the #30 terminal is connected to the white wire that runs to the flasher relay.

On mine the white wire runs from the 4 way switch to the flasher and has power when the switch is on, but I get nothing on 49a despite the fact that the blinkers work quite well.

This starting to look like a problem with the flasher relay.
Let’s bypass the flasher relay. Take the white wire off the flasher relay. Take the two wires (blue and black/green/white) off the flasher relay. Connect all three of these wire together. Do not let them touch anything or they will short.
Make sure your speedo indicator lamp is removed (this is the test that will NOT work if the speedo lamp is installed). Test your turn signals and the E-Flashers. They should turn ON but not flash. This confirms the wiring is good all the way to the corner bulbs.
If they don’t work, test for voltage along the blue and black/green/white wires. Since they are now connected to the white wire they should both be powered while the white wire is powered.


Bob Brugge wrote:
When the circuit was grounded through the speedo head via the indicator light the 4 ways worked fine. That's what I don't understand. How can the circuit work just fine wired improperly and not at all when properly wired? I will poke at it some more in a bit. Could the fact that my left side brake and tail light quit working again be significant?

This would only make sense if your have the wrong flasher relay. Can you confirm the make and model# of your relay? Does it have the proper terminal numbers marked (#31, #49 (+) and #49a)? A “generic” relay meant for a US car may not work as the wiring here is based on a European design. It actually has positive voltage (from the turn indicator lamp in the speedo) coming INTO the flasher relay OUTPUT terminal (#49a). Some generic flasher relays will not work wired this way.
The blue/red wire from the speedo indicator is actually “hot” (has 12v+) while the ignition switch is ON. This means while you had it connected to the #31 terminal of the flasher relay it was providing 12v+ to that ground terminal. I don’t know what a flasher relay will do when you power the ground terminal.
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 6:48 am    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:


You are confused and are thinking the wire works in reverse. The E-Flasher switch powers the flasher relay. The flasher relay powers the corner lamps thru the turn signal switch OR the E-Flasher switch (bottom half in the diagram). Current on your blue wire is coming FROM the flasher relay and RETURNS to the E-Flasher switch to be directed to the L and R wires (this is the function of the second half of the E-Flasher switch). The current on this blue wire is only used when the E-Flasher switch is ON.
The current entering the E-Flasher switch from the fuses stays in the upper half of the switch in the diagram. The current goes OUT to the flasher relay before coming BACK IN via the #49a. Look at the diagram and you will see what I mean. When the E-Flasher switch is ON that current coming IN on the #49a terminal is passed back out on BOTH the L and R terminals to power all four corner lamps.

If you are confused, I don’t blame you. This is a rather convoluted way to save $$ by using only ONE flasher relay to power BOTH the 4-way system and the turn signals and reuse the same wiring.


Yeah I am confused. Instead of the black/green/white wire coming from the 4 way flasher relay it should be coming from the switch itself? It sounds like you are saying when the 4 ways are on the blue wire runs the 4 ways, and when it is off, it returns power to the flasher, only to have it return to the turn signal switch via black/green/white wires from the 4 way switch??

ashman40 wrote:

This starting to look like a problem with the flasher relay.
Let’s bypass the flasher relay. Take the white wire off the flasher relay. Take the two wires (blue and black/green/white) off the flasher relay. Connect all three of these wire together. Do not let them touch anything or they will short.
Make sure your speedo indicator lamp is removed (this is the test that will NOT work if the speedo lamp is installed). Test your turn signals and the E-Flashers. They should turn ON but not flash. This confirms the wiring is good all the way to the corner bulbs.
If they don’t work, test for voltage along the blue and black/green/white wires. Since they are now connected to the white wire they should both be powered while the white wire is powered.


I will do the test, but idk how to expect different results. wired with 31 to ground via speedo head, flashers work fine, attach 31 to ground and the blue wire, the black/green/white wire to 49a and the blinkers work fine.
ashman40 wrote:

This would only make sense if your have the wrong flasher relay. Can you confirm the make and model# of your relay? Does it have the proper terminal numbers marked (#31, #49 (+) and #49a)? A “generic” relay meant for a US car may not work as the wiring here is based on a European design. It actually has positive voltage (from the turn indicator lamp in the speedo) coming INTO the flasher relay OUTPUT terminal (#49a). Some generic flasher relays will not work wired this way.
The blue/red wire from the speedo indicator is actually “hot” (has 12v+) while the ignition switch is ON. This means while you had it connected to the #31 terminal of the flasher relay it was providing 12v+ to that ground terminal. I don’t know what a flasher relay will do when you power the ground terminal.


Yes the numbers are confirmed, can't read anything else on it tho, my eyesight is too poor. I did replace it when I replaced my 1157 bulbs with leds to prevent hyper flash. After I got all four bulbs in, the blinkers would not work at all. apparently these cars don't like the newer, longer lasting, less amperage bulbs. the rear led's were replaced with 1157's . The fronts are still led's.

Thanks again for your patience and wisdom.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 9:32 am    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

Bob Brugge wrote:
ashman40 wrote:
You are confused and are thinking the wire works in reverse. The E-Flasher switch powers the flasher relay. ...

Yeah I am confused. Instead of the black/green/white wire coming from the 4 way flasher relay it should be coming from the switch itself? It sounds like you are saying when the 4 ways are on the blue wire runs the 4 ways, and when it is off, it returns power to the flasher, only to have it return to the turn signal switch via black/green/white wires from the 4 way switch??

Not sure why you are insisting that the E-Flasher switch is sending power to the flasher relay via the blue wire between the #49a terminals. This is wrong.
Look at the diagram and split the E-Flasher switch on the right into two parts... the upper half (which controls which power source powers the flasher relay) and the lower half (which controls when the pulsing power from the flasher relay is passed to both the L and R sides lights).

Let's take this one stage at a time. The first stage of the E-Flasher/turn signal switch is the top half of the E-Flasher switch and the flasher relay. The E-Flasher switch selects the power source and passes this to the #49 (+) terminal of the flasher relay. If the #15 fuse is the source, the flasher relay is only powered while the ignition switch is ON.

In the second stage, pulsing power from the #49a OUTPUT terminal of the flasher relay has two paths... turn signal switch or returning to the E-Flasher switch. With the turn signal switch centered and the E-Flasher switch OFF there is no path to ground for the pulsing current (technically it is not pulsing yet because the flasher relay only flashes when there is a load to feed)
When the turn signal switch arm is moved it closes the circuit and there is a path thru the bulbs to ground. This "load" is detected by the flasher relay and it starts pulsing the current out the #49a terminal.

When the E-Flasher switch is turned ON (and the source of power switches to the #30 constant power fuse) the lower half of the switch closes the contacts between #49a and the L and R OUTPUT terminals. This passes the pulsing current coming in on the #49a both the L and R circuits which lights all four corner bulbs.


Bob Brugge wrote:
ashman40 wrote:
This starting to look like a problem with the flasher relay.
Let’s bypass the flasher relay...

I will do the test, but idk how to expect different results. wired with 31 to ground via speedo head, flashers work fine, attach 31 to ground and the blue wire, the black/green/white wire to 49a and the blinkers work fine.
ashman40 wrote:

This would only make sense if your have the wrong flasher relay. Can you confirm the make and model# of your relay?...

Yes the numbers are confirmed, can't read anything else on it tho, my eyesight is too poor. I did replace it when I replaced my 1157 bulbs with leds to prevent hyper flash. After I got all four bulbs in, the blinkers would not work at all. apparently these cars don't like the newer, longer lasting, less amperage bulbs. the rear led's were replaced with 1157's . The fronts are still led's.

Let me get this straight... you installed LED bulbs for your turn signals?? The stock flasher relay WILL NOT WORK with LED bulbs. All the stock flasher relays are marked "12V 2(4) x21W". This means they were designed to work with pairs (or four) 21W bubs. The new LED bulbs are only around 2W. They don't provide enough load to allow the flasher relays to work properly.

I'm assuming when you replaced the relay you chose one DESIGNED for LEDs?? This is key. The stock flasher relays will NOT work with LED bulbs... even two. The stock relay senses the load from the lights. When the load is 2x21W (or more) it flashes normally. When the load drops below 42W it signals one of the bulbs has burnt out and the relay "quick flashes" to let the driver know. Since LEDs have a much lower load it could be so low that the stock relay won't work at all.
Here is a pic of a proper replacement flasher relay. You can see it indicates "LED" in the labeling.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What you described seems to suggest your flasher relay is NOT LED compatible.
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Bob Brugge
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 5:45 pm    Post subject: Re: No click at starter Now With Updates Still need help Reply with quote

That is the exact relay I have. it is working fine for the blinkers, I am going to tackle this another time. Thanks for the help.
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