Fuel Injector Wires - Mismatchable? Engine Not Starting

[heerojyuy]

My 1979 FI Bus was sitting for a few years. It ran, but not very well (Probably the broken carbon I later found in the distro cap)

So I dropped the motor and did some much need maintenance:
-New pushrod tube seals
-Cleaned all of the hydraulic lifters.
-Replaced one hydraulic lifter that had a cracked rod seat.
-Cleaned the engine.
-Replaced all fuel hoses.
-Replaced all vacuum lines
-Cleaned all electrical connections.
-Replaced exhaust seals.
-New distributor. (Had an 009 in there/went back to an 034)
-And a few other minor things.

I wasn't able to zero the valves after the lifter job, as the screws would not turn. I figured that could be done after running the engine.

I reinstalled the engine and hooked everything up. Problem was, I could not distinguish the 3/4 & 1/2 injector wires from each other... This was the first time that I completely removed the harness. I probably should have labelled them... From some graphics I have come across, it almost seems like it doesn't matter which they go to.
If it does matter, is there a way to distinguish the wires from each other? The pairs appear identical in length.


Now it cranks (Sounds great cranking!) but there is no ignition.

I pulled each plug and they all had spark (Not the best spark. The old plugs were dirty). I cleaned them (and have since replaced them). As I pulled each one and cranked, the engine almost started. By number 4, it ran with the plug out, briefly, before I turned it off. I installed the 4th plug, attempted to start, it ran oddly for a moment and died. Back to only cranking.


In the mean-time, I am going to re-gap the points, as I left them at the factory gap). If I can find my light, I will more-accurately static time the engine (until I can run it and time it with a timing light)

Does the engine starting with a plug out, but not with all of them in, indicate anything?

_________________
1979 Volkswagen Bus - Daily Driver
2000cc
FI

[Randy in Maine]

All of the injectors fire at the same time. Move on.

From the factory this would have came with a GE engine code and hydraulic lifters. they should be set at about 1.5 turns after contract (1 turn = 1mm) of "preload".

Is this a federal set up? If it is you, will have a series resister up on the firewall.

Brown connector = thermotime switch
Blue = cold start vale
Black = aux air regulator

[heerojyuy]

[busdaddy]

[Randy in Maine]

"Mr. Dwell Meter" is your friend here. You want to see the number 47º +/- 3º.

When you go from a 009 to a 034, you need to march the plug wires 90º around the cap.

[Wildthings]

Determine if the problem is spark or fuel. If you have spark, but no fuel the problem could be that the injectors are stuck closed for sitting so long. Adding some FI cleaner to the fuel and running the pump to circulating it through the system may help, give it a few hours to work. If this doesn't work remove the injectors and soak them in FI cleaner. You can momentarily hit them with 12volts to see if that will cause them to open and while doing so you can tap the tips against a wooden block. You can also put the injectors in a vise and GENTLY peck on the exposed plunger using a small nail set and a light hammer.

[SGKent]

Just my 2 cents worth.

Rather than throwing more money at it until you either find the magic combination, (or make it worse which is what I am afraid of), why not hire a professional to see if he can get it going and tune it for you? Last I heard was that Robbie (Asiab3) was in Oregon - at least 2 days ago. Get ahold of Robbie and see what he might suggest. https://www.airschooled.com/

Colin (Amskeptic) has already passed thru that area already this year. http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/index.php
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[heerojyuy]

It is good to see the A-Team is still here in full force!

Thank you all for the input so far.

Adding gas to the S-Boot did elicit a reaction. I have only added 2 gallons of gas to the tank since emptying it and it leans pretty hard to the driver side where I have it parked. I might just need to add more. (Pretty sure the Pump draws from the passenger side of the tank.)


I caught the 90 degree issue earlier today and danced the plug wires around.

I sprayed the tips of the injectors with carb cleaner when I had them out, cleaned the outside and installed new fuel lines/seals on them.

I need to pick up a tach/dwell.

If I get stumped, I'll check out additional help. But I am content with tinkering for the moment.

Running the pump might be useful. Can't i jump a couple wires on the double relay to do that?
_________________
1979 Volkswagen Bus - Daily Driver
2000cc
FI

[busdaddy]

Stab the flap in the AFM while the key is on to run the fuel pump, a chopstick is a safe way to do it.
2 gallons on a tilt may just be the problem, the pickup is close to the middle favoring the right and isn't directly on the bottom of the tank.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Слава Україні!

[heerojyuy]

[busdaddy]

After a backfire have a good look around for blown off vacuum lines or ruptured S boots, also make sure the AFM flap isn't jammed shut or damaged from slamming shut.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[Wildthings]