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Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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 Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 2:37 am Post subject: Re: Cam Replacement T4 |
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| Okay, that is fine. Working with those adjusters is a bit of a chore, and yes it is easy for the wrench to slip off and dick up the flats on the nuts. I once considered taking an end wrench and making one side sharper/flatter, but never got around to it. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21519
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 8:19 am Post subject: Re: Cam Replacement T4 |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| Wasted youth wrote: |
| asiab3 wrote: |
| The new Web Cam kit for bolting gears to their stock and performance camshafts included the thin profile hex bolts, and the 20-point star washers Colin speaks of. |
Any reported issues with this arrangement? |
Not yet, but the Type 1 built with it only has about 4,500 miles so far.
| asiab3 wrote: |
| ...For the record, many modern tools are sent with a deep "chamfer" around the inside of the socket walls to facilitate getting the socket on bolt heads. This chamfer is sometimes so pronounced, that the tool can not effectively grab the walls of the thin profile hex nuts for final torquing. (The same goes for the 14mm valve adjusting lock nuts on later Type 4 engines.) |
I cannot visualize using a socket on valve adjusters. How do you keep the screw from turning while tightening it down? |
I didn't mean sockets exclusively; all modern offset box wrenches I've seen have this chamfer, which rounds off late T4 valve adjuster nuts in seconds. I have been known to memorize screw slot orientation, then use a socket to break free adjusters on engines that absolutely will not safely break free with a box wrench. Though on the shallow T4 cam gear bolt heads, it might be worth buying an extra socket to grind down a few millimeters for better grip.
Robbie[/quote]
I HATE...actually LOATHE those star washers from Web.
Its not that they do not work.....
Actually...lets rephrase that.....
Its not that they cannot work.
Its a decent concept....but to work it implies that the star lock washer (actually any lock washer)...must be harder than than both surfaces being locked together. They have to bite as they deform.
Its not clear to me that the washers are hard enough to bite into the bolts...unless the bolts are grade 5 or less....when then makes the choice of the bolts...somewhat low grade.
But my biggest problem with the bolts that come in the cam kit is the fit on the bolts. Its sloppy. Its common that unless you carefully center the star washers...that little gripper points hang out.
I rate the star washers about equal with a split lock washer...and I only consider those really good when using a grade 8 lock washer between two softer grade 5 surfaces....on good size bolts using a lot of torque. Its satisfying to try to break that bond loose.....and find it difficult because the split washer point has made a deep indentation and will not budge.
Personally....on the cam bolts...I use a Schnoor washer and loctite.
Yes..ideally Schnorr washers are not ideal between soft metals....mainly when both metals are soft because the ribs will chew up the aluminum slightly during removal....but they definitely bite into the aluminum and the bolt and impart load as they deflect. And they were and are commonly on case bolts on some Porsche and on some aircraft aircooled engines.
As for the adjusting with a socket...and the chamfer.....I have see a couple of tappet adjuster set ups over the years that use a socket that was attached to a handle. Think of it a a long tubular box end wrench that is a through hole to allow the screwdriver to go through. I have played with a few over the years....and I liked the concept...but hated the execution.
The problem these had was all but one or two were pivoting type where the socket pivoted on the handle to allow getting different angles on different engines...and they were not stable because they pivoted...and you slipped off.
The ones I found that were fixed....the socket section was too long...and because of that they were also not stable.
Ray |
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telford dorr
Samba Member
Joined: March 11, 2009
Posts: 3555
Location: San Diego (Encinitas)
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| Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 11:02 pm Post subject: Re: Cam Replacement T4 |
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When I did my type 1, I used bolts, flat washers, and red Loktite.
_________________
'71 panel, now with FI
'Experience' is the ability to recognize a mistake when you're making it again - Franklin P. Jones
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Same thing happens when you're stupid. - Philippe Geluck
More VW electrical at http://telforddorr.com/ (available 9am to 9pm PST) |
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mbgarage
Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2017
Posts: 1
Location: Chicago, IL.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:23 pm Post subject: Re: Cam Replacement T4 |
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| HELP! I replaced my camshaft and aluminum gear 2 years ago, I put 3k miles on the engine and it has a noise around the gears (rotational clacking), I pull it apart and found out that there is too much play between the gears, it wasn't there when I rebuilt the engine. I call the place where I got the camshaft and gear now he is asking me for a degree angle on the old gear HE SAYS THERE IS 12 DIFFERENT GEARS i don't have my old cam gear. the engine is a GE the only thing I found was a picture 021 109 111 C and a # 14 next to it |
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timvw7476
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013
Posts: 2205
Location: seattle
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:02 pm Post subject: Re: Cam Replacement T4 |
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The old gear is stamped for 'offset' on the backside, facing the oil pump
when installed, O is neutral gear, factory numbers ran from +7 to -7.
It is stamped on the perimeter,right near the tooth. Look carefully. |
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