1967 Coupe

[Lucho]

Hey guys,

I bought my first Ghia this weekend and I’m real exited about getting it running. I plan on making it my daily driver. I do not plan to make it show quality. Just make it run nicely and then slowly fix the beauty issues.

Guy I bought it from told me his dad had it running, then planned on painting it so he stripped all the parts from it. Parked it, got sick, and left it there for 2 years. When I picked it up I was pleasantly surprised to find a box with most of the parts. Originally I thought it was actually missing all the parts since his CL description didn’t mention anything about a box of parts.

Anyways, started working on it yesterday. I went and bought a battery for it, made sure it had decent oil and that the gas didn’t look too horrible. I know I should have replaced the gas and oil first but I couldn’t wait to see if it would st least start. So the only problem was that the battery cable wasn’t plugged in to the starter Solenoid. Plugged it in and it started right up. It only ran a combined 90 seconds or so because I want to change fluids before I run it anymore.

I noticed a few things that I wanted to ask you guys about. First, the carb is leaking a decent amount of gas when the car is running. I was looking for a rebuild kit but I saw that the carbs brand new are $85. For that cheap price it seems I’d be dumb to even attempt to rebuild the old one but I wanted to ask your guys opiniom first. Are those new carbs decent? Or should rebuild my current one. It’s a soled 30 pic1.

I’ll probably be asking a lot of questions on the near future so thanks in advance. I’m still newish so bare with me if I make some dumb questions. Here’s a before and after a wash of the ghia.

[/img]

[Evil_Fiz]

From a fellow Floridian, welcome to the madness.
I am not an expert in carbs but I CAN tell you that a rebuilt Solex is going to be a better option than an aftermarket replica. There is a Samba member that rebuilds Solex carbs and is highly recommended by the Samba community. It won't be the $85 you pay for the aftermarket carb but it will be worth it in quality and reliability.

Here is the link to his site: https://www.volkzbitz.com
and the link to his Samba feedback page: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

EDIT:
Don't get the engine hot while you have that gas leak. The last thing you want is a CAR-B-Q. ...and I almost forgot, more answers require more pictures. Make with the eye candy brother

----
Emil
_________________
“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[gmach21]

Congratulations.

I agree with Emil.

i can also vouch for Volksbitz

i purchased a 34 pict3 for my 71 and couldnt be happier

that was 2 years ago and its still like brand new... theres alot of extras that come with the price. Tim goes all out... you basically receive a work of art.

express shipping is included in the price, the jets are updated as well as a few other things... and most importantly he guarantees his work and has provided excellent support and advice well after the purchase.... dont think twice go with Tim you wont be dissappointed. if you like i can PM you pix of when i received it so you can see the quality of his work.

Best of luck

[Era Vulgaris]

I agree with what others have said. Do not buy the cheap EMPI carbs. They're made in China and the issues with them are well documented all over this forum. They're fine if all your car does is drive from the trailer to it's parking spot at the car show. But anything more than that I wouldn't trust them.
If you actually want to daily drive your car, the original German carb is what you want to have.
Rebuilding a carb isn't difficult assuming it's in otherwise decent shape (ie throttle shaft bushings are good, etc). But if you're not up for it, Volksbitz is the guy to send your carb to.

VW parts at first glance may seem deceptively cheap, but one thing you'll learn about VW parts is that there's often two options: OE German quality and not OE German quality. A cheap Chinese part may seem like a deal, but it'll end up costing you more in the end when you end up replacing it with the more expensive German part.

Also, 67 is a pretty cool and interesting year. There's a lot of one-year-only parts on it, and also it was the last year for some things and the first year for other things. I just sold my 67 coupe back in Feb of this year. Feel free to ask any questions!
_________________
Currently own:
66 Karmann Ghia, L390 Gulf Blue, under construction, here: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760505&highlight=
99 Mazda MX-5 10AE, Sapphire Blue Mica, 6 speed, LSD

Previously owned:
98 Porsche Boxster, silver, 2.5L -- 67 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1500sp -- 98 BMW Z3, Atlanta Blue Metallic, 2.8L I6 -- 75 Porsche 914, Laguna Blue, 2270cc -- 72 Porsche 914, Signal Orange, 1.7 FI -- 74 Karmann Ghia, Black, 1600dp -- 74 Triumph TR6 with O.D., sapphire blue

[Lucho]

Great, thanks for the answers guys. I think I will attempt to rebuild it first and if something goes wrong I will send it off to volksbitz. I really do plan on making it a daily driver so I want to make sure it’s good. Now I’m wondering if the carb is even the original one. How do you tell a Chinese one apart from the original one? Does it have a made in Germany mark somewhere?

[Lucho]

One more thing, anybody know what the Last owner did there? Looks like he plugged something with paint bottles?

[crazy tarzan]

Those are the tubes for the heaters that previously connected to the heat exchangers on the exhaust pipes.

[dolson1970]

1967
'67 Model Year (Ch# 147 000 001 thru 147 999 000) August '66 thru July '67

* By far, the most changes in half a decade. Many items are uniquely '67.
* First 1500 cc engine. Stamped serial # is prefixed H.
* Disc brakes up front. Wheels are 4 bolt, small, or modern pattern. (To end)
* Dash face is no longer painted. It is covered with a fake, wood-grain looking mask. (but dash pad continued to be the older style with de-mountable grab bar.)
* Large single instrument (speedo), with two much smaller gauges (fuel and clock). Earlier cars used two large gauges, with one smaller gauge centered between them.
* Stock wheel/tire combination comes noticably closer to edge of rear fender flank because of wider rear axles.
* Electrical system is 12 volt. Back-up lites may appear on rear bumper. (Bumper mounted back-up thru '69)
* Ignition switch on dash uses much bigger face, and may have cumbersome ignition/steering lock features.
* Convertible Only: Mid-year change allowed for rear of top to be secured to body by a cable. Previously, convertible top was tacked to a wooden strip.
* Chrome moldings no longer appear on inner, upper door frame, (i.e., just above the upholstered door panel). Nor, are they found on inner quarter panel frame.
* Some type of seat belt end now appears on tunnel. Most common is chrome loop.
* Seat cushion is cupped, holds occupant more securely. Previous seats were basically flat instead of contoured. Last year of the low backed seat.
* Americanized door lock with separate knob located at top of rear of door. (Continued for only 4 model years)
* Cute, chromed, miniature version of Karmann Ghia rear deck lid script graces the center of dash face. (To finis)
* Chrome trim on upholstered door panel is now a rectangular, somewhat flat, mylar plastic, decorative strip which is bonded to the vinyl of the panel. (To end) Previously, chrome trim on door panels were two double-ended, aluminum strips that in cross-section had a hatchet, or wedge shape. Trim of these pre-'67 door panels was of same pattern, shape, and composition as exterior moldings.
* Inside rear view mirror head now oval shaped plastic crackle finish. (Previously metal head)

[TDCTDI]

[Lucho]

Yeah I noticed the floor pans when I got the car. I also checked out all the seat rails and everything is real sturdy in there. It looks real bad from underneath but it’ll work for a while I think. No moisture gets in and like I salud, everything feels real solid on the inside.

What do you guys suggest I do? Remove the paint cans and hook the tubes up to where they originally went? I think I know what you guys are talking about. I have seen most ghia engine pictures have the 2 foil or aluminum hoses running to the bottom of the car. Mine doesn’t have those 2 hoses or tubes.

I’ll take a few more pictures of the car later today including those springs. I just assumed the car came with them. Didn’t think somebody added them.

[TDCTDI]

Until you install heat exchangers, there is nothing to attach the hoses to.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[udo dreisoerner]

Greetings from Germany. Very very nice ghia. Congrat ans enjoy the ghia.
_________________
Searching for a 1956 lowlight karmann ghia with a VIN number between1273054 and 1273440, and the matching engine with an Engine Number between
1525510 and 1525519 PLEASE OFFER ME ONLY THE CARS THAT I'M LOOKING FOR, THANKS!!

[c21darrel]

[rcooled]

[Lucho]

[TDCTDI]

In the meantime, leave the cans in place so you don't end up with a rodent moving in.

In fact, before you drive the car much, you should raise the fan shroud to be sure that rodents haven't moved in & nested on top of the cylinders.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[Evil_Fiz]

Forget the rodents, you might find one of these squatting in your heater channels.

-----
Emil
_________________
“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[TDCTDI]

[Era Vulgaris]

[Lucho]

Ok so here’s a few pics.
First the engine bay. Please let me know what looks wrong. I know I’m missing the original air filter. I only have the metal piece that goes to the carb. I’m missing the piece that connects that metal piece to the actual filter and the filter. I can see I’m also missing the 2 hoses that were mentioned above. Any other things you guys see I should address?

Here’s the Carb, says soled so it’s the original?

Here’s a picture of most of the pieces that came with the car. Has both headlights, both rear lights, some trim 4 fuel sending units for some reason, and a few other things. There’s some things I have no idea what they are. When I go through the parts I’ll post them here to see if you guys can help me find where they go to. I also see a piece of the heater?

Anyways, It’s raining all day today so won’t be able to work too much on it but I hope I can at least drain gas and change oil on it when rain stops for a bit.