Restoration of a former '65 firetruck (21F)

[notchboy]

[virtanen]

I took couple of pics.
It was too easy just push the rubber on the other end

Turn the rubber like this

Put it correct way on the tube flange

Push two long flat head screw drivers so the the ends are behind the tube

Then just let it go easily

Then just turn the rubber correct way back. Ready!

_________________
Mika
Split beetle restoration panels
Oval beetle restoration panels
New projects

[Fifty-Eight Rag]

_________________
1956 Oval
and a barn full of VW parts

1956 Oval build thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

1962 Single Cab Restoration
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7959298#7959298

1967 Beetle Restoration
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=495269&highlight=larrys

[mdege]

That's great Mika! Thank you for sharing.

Next time I'll know how to do it the easy way.
_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[mdege]

I finished rebuilding one of the heater silencers. I sand blasted the parts inside and out. Then I welded up the holes and replaced the ends on the side with the adapter from 50 mm to 62 mm.

All parts are basically ready for reassembly, but this time I am going to paint the inside.

Then I made two more tools.
1. VW 690 "Installing Device for Rear Axel Shaft Ball Bearing"

2. VW 681 "Extractor Lever for Main Drive Shaft Oil Seal"

I am also almost ready to put the rear axle back together. I cleaned everything installed most of the bearings. Sorry no more pictures yet. I will make some before putting everything together.

I do wonder if it would make sense to flip the drive shafts from left to right, because there is some visible wear on the paddles. Any thoughts on that? Both sets of drive shafts which I have show the same type of wear.

I am sure it'll do many more km if I install it on the same side, but if I switch sides the wear would be more even.
_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[BarryL]

[mdege]

Some more progress. Finished the transaxle. I decided to swap the drive shafts and the differential gear that goes with it from left to right. That way I will put less wear on the already worn paddle.

Today I made a new set of tools to pull apart the kingpins. This worked nicely and I was very please to see, that the parts had survived the last couple of decades since I had to replace them in the 1990ies.

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[LAGrunthaner]

mdege, looking great, I like your homemade tool too!
_________________
American Red Cross Safe And Well:
https://www.redcross.org/about-us/news-and-events/...bsite.html
Maui Roadsters
www.mauiroadsters.com
http://www.oacdp.org

[Schwing]

Thank you for sharing your work. I really appreciate the level of detail and explanation through every step. I took the easy way out and sent my trans and RGB to a pro.
_________________
Shadetree Westy
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=657279&highlight=

Single Cab - BBXXVII Long Distance Winner
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[mdege]

Swissbulli asked me about the tool to line-up the spindles when pressing them back together again. Therefore I decided to get it done. Turns out it took me longer, than I had anticipated.

I used 20mm square tubing and I figured, that i would get a slot 20mm wide to guide the 20mm round stock to keep the kingpins from twisting.

Cutting the tubes:

I welded the tubes together like this:

It turned out, that the tubes warped slightly and the slot was just too tight for the 20mm diameter round bar.

I had to fix that using my trusty old mill:

Tomorrow I will weld the parts together like this:

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[mdege]

I finished the jig. But I also had to make some sleeves to adapt the 20mm rods to the eye of the king pins. I thought I could use the needle bearings but that was too tight.

I know I should have 22mm link pins, but when I had to repair the front axle in the 90ies I couldn't get the right parts. Therefor I had to be creative.

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[swiss_bulli]

Cool stuff! I will try to adapt your style of the tool too. I also thought about having two square profiles as guide for the rods. Unfortunately I do not own or have access to a nice mill like you do. But if I put the round rods in while welding it could help against wrapping. Or I might just drive up to you and borrow your awesome tools 😉. Looking forward to your awesome updates. Thanks for giving us the insights!

[mdege]

Today i finished rebuilding my front spindles.

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[mdege]

The Work continues.

Last weekend I pulled the front axle beam apart and dragged it to a place to have it sandblasted. I should have it back on Tuesday.

I extracted the needle bearing using this tool:

Then I made wooden plugs to close off the tubes. I don't want the blasting media in the tubes with the grease. Had that problem on a friends axle. Definitely no fun! I'll post pictures of that once I get the axle back.

I also did some other random stuff like sandblast and paint the tierods and rear break drums.

Finished the front backing plates by installing the new springs which stop the adjuster from turning.

Since I was done with all of the front axle parts except for the axle beam. I decided it was time to roll out the motor.

This is a dual port 50HP motor which came from a 1979 bus. I rebuilt it with new heads 53000 km and 25 years ago. I will clean it up on the outside, replace some of the engine tin but I won't take it apart for now. It is hard to read but the case is stamped with AS and the recycling symbol. I doubt the case had been recycled, I must have been new I has never had an engine number.

Some of the crud that was left after I removed the engine tin and exhaust system.

Then I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate. The clutch had rusted to the pressure plate.

Motor with most of the tin gone:

Today I cleaned the intake and unplugged the heat riser tube. I also finally made a plug for the vacuume connector for the non existent power breaks. I used to have a rubber plug which has fallen out on occasion. The new plug is press-fit and wont fall out again.

Removed the pulley wheel and the piece of tin behind it.

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[mdege]

Got my front axle beam back from the sandblaster. Was definitely worth having it done. I payed only €40.00

The picture show how I plugged up the tubes and the link pin bearings

To prevent new rust I coated it with the first coat of Brantho Corrux 3in1

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[TRS63]

Really impressive work and loving that you are rebuilding old VW tools!

Thanks for sharing!

Antoine
_________________
Antoine
My 62 ragtop daily driver:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728873
My 914 restoration&lightweight project :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9698432#9698432
Resurrecting a 60 ghia : https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=713906
My 52 Standard Zwitter :
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10086685#10086685

[mdege]

Thank you Antoine. Your Ghia project is really impressive too!
_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[Dann Tellez]

Such a great job!.

Definitely this is one of my favorite buses here on Samba.

[mdege]

@Dann thank you for your kind words.

Today I continued on the front axle.

First I pulled the wooden plugs which kept the sandblast media out of the greasy tubes.

Then I removed as much of the old grease:

And then I cleaned the needle bearings and reinstalled them:

Reassembly of the trailing arms:

I scored some NOS rubber stops this weekend, ofcourse they had to be installed right away

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[mdege]

I haven't posted here in a while. Progress has been a bit slower or I was so busy at it, that I forgot to take pictures.

The engine is basically ready to be taken off the motor stand. Unfortunately I can't test run it while it is on the stand.

All did to it was to clean it up and replaced or cleaned and resprayed the tin. Ofcourse I adjusted the valves drained and replace the oil. The carburetor and fuel pump are rebuilt. The wiring harness is new too. Now I need to set the timing and take it off of the stand, and reinstall the flywheel. Then I can hook it up for a test run.

Then I decided to not use the cargofloor which I had bought more than 20 years ago. The new ones are so much better.

To install the floor I still have a little bit of work ahead of me. First I had to remove the last bits of the original floor.

And I had some rust repair to do:

Next I still have to clean and paint the torsionbar tube while I have easy access to it.

Then I tried to repair the section of the heater tube which sits right in front of the cargo area. Unfortunately you can only get a new one when you buy the whole set. This is really the part that rusts most of all of the heater tubes.

I didn't like my first try. The second one is a failure too, I did not get the angle right. I'll need to cut it apart again and tack it together with it on the car.

Removed the old floor welds from the heater tubes:

I am contemplating if I should reinstall the original rear heater or if I should go with the plastic Eberspächer heater went I used once I installed the Eberspächer heater.

_________________
- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car