Subaru 2.2 smoke - uh oh

[Westaru]

Still dialing out some issues with my ’84 Westy with 1991 EJ22. The motor supposedly had 74k miles on it when I purchased the van, and I’ve redone the fuel, coolant, and wiring as well as added power steering and AC. I’ve driven the van +/- 3500 miles now without issue other than a bad fuel pump.

The past 2 days we camped in the canyons (steep climb from 4500 to 9000’). It has been hot (99* in the valley) and both days the van climbed the canyon fine and seemed to run well. Coolant temps and oil pressures were normal.

However, both days the van ‘smelled’ hot when arriving at camp and the engine hatch was very hot to the touch in the passenger compartment. Inside of the compartment was very hot and some of the split loop protecting the wiring above the heat shield was soft from the heat.

Today when coming down the canyon the majority of the 10 miles down are coasting at 3000 rpm without fuel input and repeatedly braking to bring the speed down. When I turned out of the canyon and hit the gas pedal an enormous cloud of blue smoke filled the lane behind me. I pulled over and noticed the exhaust was still slightly blowing blue smoke. Drove the van the rest of the way home without issue. All temp gauges were reading normal.

Inside tip of the exhaust is very slightly ‘oily’. My current thinking is that the van is suddenly burning oil which is heating up the catalytic converter beyond normal temperatures.

Where should I go next with this? Could it be rings? Faulty PCV? Should I check compression first?

Fearing the worst but hoping this could be something simple. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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1984 'Westaru' Vanagon Westfalia EJ22
@UtahWestfalia on IG

[Mikesarge]

I'd check the PCV valve before doing a compression test, only because that's an extremely easy thing to test. take the valve off, see if the check valve in it slides easily when you shake it lightly. it should move very freely. they're dirt cheap and stupid simple, so just get a new one if you have any doubt once it's off.

what's your oil level- is it consuming oil?

compression test as follows for best results: warm, remove all plugs, battery fully charged, fuel cut off (I unplug my ECU), throttle held open.

hopefully it's just a sticky pcv!

[Sodo]

[r39o]

Lots of Subaru motors that have been turned around use oil. Fact of life. It is weird but the loads apparently change and hence the oil. My buddy blew up a motor cause it ate oil. Short of a lower end job, nothing you can do.

My advise is to watch the oil. Sometime do a leak down test maybe.

You stuck a random motor in. You will get random results. Usually resealing everything and putting all new wear parts on the outside catches most issues. EXCEPT an oil consuming issue. Can not fix that without getting into the lower end.

Try heavier oil. There is a chart that shows. Lots of places go straight to the 20W50. I am at 10W30 and use some oil. The thinner the oil the more likely you will use it.

What weight oil do you have?

NOTE You could try Marvel Mystery Oil and a straight 30W high detergent oil to wash the motor out and maybe clean up some gummy rings but that may or may not do anything.
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"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[Howesight]

I suspect two things may have caused the smoke you describe:

1. PCV valve needs attention or replacement;
2. Your valve stem seals need to be replaced.

I agree with Sodo's analysis - - coasting at closed throttle causes the ECU to cut fuel (for economy). The oil being sucked into the cylinders past the valve stem seals does not burn as there is insufficient gasoline to support burning of the oil. Once you apply throttle, the oil burns, causing the smoke.

It is possible (but not fun) to replace the valve stem seals with the engine in place and without removing cylinder heads. To do this job, it is easer, by far, to have the engine out.

You need a valve spring compressor and some nylon rope and a small magnet on a telescoping rod, to catch the valve stem keepers. After removing the cam(s) and rockers, you roll the cylinder you are working on to Bottom Dead Centre (BDC), insert the nylon rope through the spark plug hole, and rotate the crankshaft to create mild pressure of the rope against the valves, keeping them closed while you replace the valve stem seals.

There are also some oil additives (no names come to mind at the moment) that expand old seals to help them seal somewhat better and last somewhat longer.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[[email protected]]

He he, how much you burning? Could be negligible. You state that it's running fine, I would keep a close eye on your level using the dip stick. Up to 1 qt per 1000 miles is ok. Not great but ok. You under that then your good. Do you have a stock oil pan? Or are you using small cars? If you run your car hard it will smell "burnt". Probably just what it needs.

[alaskadan]

I have an 07 ej 2.5 and 47k on it when installed. Junkyard engine didn't know the history. At first it was fine, daily driver. At a year and a half later or so it started to burn oil. Eventually it did the smoke show at the bottom of hills a few times and these weren't mountain passes but much less significant. At 2 years of driving I was burning 1 qt every 5 to 6 hundred miles. No bueno. I pulled the engine and re ringed it and honed the cylinders. Its been much better for 2 years now.