| Author |
Message |
Bob Brugge
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2015
Posts: 721
Location: Missoula, MT
|
 Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:32 pm Post subject: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
 |
|
I want to know if a 1776 will survive @ 80 - 85 mph for sustained periods. I recently completed a 1679 cc dp upgrade from a 1641 sp. Upgrades include ratio rockers 1.25:1 Dual chinese weber knock offs, a 4 into 1 header with a quiet pack muffler.
When I blew the car up 10 days after I bought it and turned it into a 1641 I put a hi volume oil pump. I want to think it is a 30mm, but it could be anything.
I ran the crap out of my car over a 35 or so mile trip after putting around in the mountains for a few hours. By the time I got it home I had bright red oil pressure light at anything less than maybe 1200 rpm. When I got home I checked to see how hot the dip stick was and I couldn't touch it. So clearly I over drove the engine. I have had it up to 95 or so for just a brief blast so I know I can run this little engine that could right up to the point where it becomes a boat anchor.
I want to build a 1776 next, dp of course but maybe sp. Not sure if I should stay with stock cam and ratio rockers or not. Keeping the dual carbs even if I do go sp.
I don't care so much about torque and horse power numbers as much as I care about how hard I can flog it. Would a 1776 with a cw crank, balance job, etc be capable of 80 or 85 all day long with out melting? With my carbs I have to keep my cc's down to 1800cc or less. What do we think?
_________________
Keep on Dubbin'! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Pruneman99
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2012
Posts: 5013
Location: Oceanside
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:51 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Size doesn't have much to do with it. Sure a 1200 might survive with barley functional cooing longer than a 2110, but that's not the point.
You either need to make less heat, or get rid of heat better. If done right you can flog anything. If done poorly, it won't last no matter what |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
I Ride Sand
Samba Member
Joined: June 07, 2012
Posts: 567
Location: utah
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:52 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
| Bob Brugge wrote: |
| I want to know if a 1776 will survive @ 80 - 85 mph for sustained periods. |
displacement has no bearing on the engine rpm, and that is what you need to be concerned with assuming it has the power to push it..
| Bob Brugge wrote: |
| When I blew the car up 10 days after I bought it and turned it into a 1641 I put a hi volume oil pump. I want to think it is a 30mm, but it could be anything. |
that probably did more harm than good, a larger pump tends to overcome the cooler bypass and cause it to run much hotter.
| Bob Brugge wrote: |
I want to build a 1776 next, dp of course but maybe sp. Not sure if I should stay with stock cam and ratio rockers or not. Keeping the dual carbs even if I do go sp.
I don't care so much about torque and horse power numbers as much as I care about how hard I can flog it. Would a 1776 with a cw crank, balance job, etc be capable of 80 or 85 all day long with out melting? With my carbs I have to keep my cc's down to 1800cc or less. What do we think? |
look at a different vehicle, or have very deep pockets. you're going to need a trans built with the speeds you want in mind, and a very well built engine. even then, you are going to have lots of maintenance and if you flog it, be prepared for it to break. its 50 year old tech, in a 50 year old car. you're wanting to go 85 all day in a car designed to go 55. you're going to have some obstacles.
_________________
Just a dirty coyote playing in the desert.
now where'd that dirty badger run off to? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
modok
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2009
Posts: 26790
Location: Colorado Springs
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:05 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Sp heads aren't a good choice for highway over 4000rpm, because they don't run evenly on all four cylinders, and that gets worse as RPMS go up. Part throttle lower RPM 2/4 wo0rk harder, in the middle about equal, WOT and 4k+ 1/3 work harder and get hot. it's not a big complaint in stock form...but that's because most get asthma at about 4000 anyway.
3600 rpm is the sweet spot.
You can cruise 85 with a SP engine, but the way to do it is build it BIG and raise the gears.
A classic 1776 with dual IDFs you can go WOT on the highway, no problem, 80-90 mph, stock gearing. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
bugguy1967
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2008
Posts: 4343
Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 9:20 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Yeah, leave that big pump out and use a 21 or 26mm pump with the proper gear endfloat. Dual port heads.
_________________
"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jpaull
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2005
Posts: 3466
Location: Paradise, Ca
|
| Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2018 11:17 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
If you can build a engine with every single tolerance correct, everything checked, annndddd not a single part installed wrong.... yeah 26mm oil pump might be ok. But given some previous scenarios with your engine stuff, im gonna say keep the 30mm, it can hide a multitude of sins.
Your all over the place man. "Dual Port of course, or maybe single port" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Dale M.
Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006
Posts: 20380
Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 5:48 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Get a Honda tuner car....
Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Lingwendil
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2009
Posts: 3988
Location: Antioch, California, a block from the hood
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 6:48 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
I'd bet that huge oil pump was creating excessive pressure, and bypassing your oil cooler at high RPM, and likely helped toast your engine. If running such a high pressure pump you need to take extra measures to ensure that it doesn't create pressure so high that it bypasses the cooler.
For sustained high RPM use you way look into a heavy duty auxiliary oil cooler, and I wouldn't go higher than a 26mm unless you build your engines sloppy on purpose. A properly set up 26 cam provide very high pressure.
_________________
73 super beetle thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649622 Back on the Road!
Modify your Kadrons for SVDA http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8115884#8115884
Cast iron VJU4BR8 SVDA reference thread- https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
Need replacement filters for original Kadron aircleaners? WIX #42087 is a perfect fit, as is Napa Gold #2087! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
slalombuggy
Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010
Posts: 9147
Location: Canada
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:00 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Why would you want to beat to death a small engine till it's a pile of melted crap when you can build a bigger engine that doesn't have to work so hard to do the job you need it to? Running an engine of 65hp at 95% capacity makes a hell of a lot more heat than a 120hp engine running at 50% capacity
If you want to drive 80-85mph for long stretches of time I wouldn't look at anything under 2.0L. Big engines can cool just as good as smaller ones if you do it right.
Speed increases in a linear fashion but the hp needed to increase top speeds increases exponentially. A car that was built to run 60mph with 60hp may require 150hp to run 90mph. 2.5X the hp to increase your speed 1.5X
Your 40s will work on what ever engine you build as long as you aren't looking for top end power. If it were me I would look at a 76x92 with The new generation of heads such as Mofoco's with their extra cooling fins or the Panchitos, both have good flow numbers.
If you want to run sustained high speeds, you do have to worry about torque and HP numbers.
brad |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:16 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
| slalombuggy wrote: |
Why would you want to beat to death a small engine till it's a pile of melted crap when you can build a bigger engine that doesn't have to work so hard to do the job you need it to? Running an engine of 65hp at 95% capacity makes a hell of a lot more heat than a 120hp engine running at 50% capacity
If you want to drive 80-85mph for long stretches of time I wouldn't look at anything under 2.0L. Big engines can cool just as good as smaller ones if you do it right.
Speed increases in a linear fashion but the hp needed to increase top speeds increases exponentially. A car that was built to run 60mph with 60hp may require 150hp to run 90mph. 2.5X the hp to increase your speed 1.5X
Your 40s will work on what ever engine you build as long as you aren't looking for top end power. If it were me I would look at a 76x92 with The new generation of heads such as Mofoco's with their extra cooling fins or the Panchitos, both have good flow numbers.
If you want to run sustained high speeds, you do have to worry about torque and HP numbers.
brad |
Not quite right.
Yes. The simplest way is to make it larger....but along with that is you need to improve the cooling system, oiling and fueling system if you make it larger...
...AND......bear in mind that the stock type 4 cars (411, 412 and 914).....literally cruise at 75-80 all day long...with "0" overheating......at 1.7L and 82hp. They didnt require 2.0L and 120hp to cruise 75-80 all day long.
I put over a million miles across three specific type 4 cars....with stock 1.7L....and based out of Texas and covering 6 states.....in beat 100+ degree summer heat and driving largely highway at constant all day speeds of over 70 mph for 80% of their life.....I can assure you they do not overheat and melt....and do not require 2.0L or 120hp.
The difference is better cooling capacity in the cooling system....but primarily in the heads.
There are modern type 1 heads with more fins and better cooling.
You should be able to build a 1776-ish engine with better heads and tweaks to oil cooling, dial in the ignition.....and go to aftermarket EFI.....and you can cruise 75-80 mph all day long without melting the engine. Ray |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
nextgen
Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2004
Posts: 6033
Location: CONGERS, N.Y.
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:38 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Totally agree with Ray.
T-4 two ton non aerodynamic buss are known to over heat but last twice as long as a T-1 pushing the same weight bus.
In a 1700 bug the T-4 Engines have a hard time reaching reaching running temp. when the air temp is below 60 f.
We are talking about the same engine that was in a 914 that weighed 300 lbs more then a bug and could do 127 hp.
No heavy math needed, just simple logic. The T-4 is hardly working pushing a bug.
_________________
email: [email protected]
The TYPE IV UPRIGHT CONVERSION MANUAL
BEETLE MAGNETIC DEFLECTOR SHIELDS
LETS TALK DUBS https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=joe+cali+ghia https://letstalkdubs.libsyn.com/ep-200-joe-cali-ty...qI3xJTCzjs |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
slalombuggy
Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010
Posts: 9147
Location: Canada
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 9:30 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
| nextgen wrote: |
Totally agree with Ray.
T-4 two ton non aerodynamic buss are known to over heat but last twice as long as a T-1 pushing the same weight bus.
In a 1700 bug the T-4 Engines have a hard time reaching reaching running temp. when the air temp is below 60 f.
We are talking about the same engine that was in a 914 that weighed 300 lbs more then a bug and could do 127 hp.
No heavy math needed, just simple logic. The T-4 is hardly working pushing a bug. |
You are completely ignoring aerodynamics. A 914 is a much better shape than a Beetle, which begins to lift at the rear above 110mph and a Beetle is far superior to the 4x8 sheet of plywood front end that a bus pushes through the air. It's not just weight that comes into how hard a given engine works, how the vehicle flows through the air has much more to so with is than weight (on a flat surface)
Type 3's and Type 4s both benefitted from wind tunnel testing. and the T3 had a higher top speed than the Beetle with basically the same displacement engine. The T4 had a bus engine in a much smaller package therefor, doesn't have to work as hard so it doesn't generate the same heat
There are also great differences in the strength and durability between a stock T4 1700 and a T1 based 17776
My HP figures were only intended for discussion purposes. I don't know how much HP it takes to push a Beetle down the road at 85mph. But why have something all stressed out doing it, when for basically the same amount of money you can have a bit larger engine that doesn't have to work as hard?
brad |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Alstrup
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2007
Posts: 7222
Location: Videbaek Denmark
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:14 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
You wanna go fast. Take a look at how we do it on this side of the pond.
T |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Brian_e
Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009
Posts: 3295
Location: Rapid City, SD
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:21 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Yep, over build it so it doesn't have to work so hard.
76x92mm
CB 5.5 I beams
AA 92mm TW B's
AA or CB 4340 crank
Panchito heads w/CNC chamber and matching cast manifolds, dual springs
Web 163 cam, 1.25 rockers
40mm IDF's, 32-34mm vents
light flywheel
S1 clutch, cheap disk
Medium size external oil cooler w/180deg. thermostat.
It will run awesome, plenty of power to beat on, and should run cool if assembled correctly. Just have to oil the hinges on your wallet.
A 2054cc T4 might be ideal, but that is even more money and screwing around.
How does it go......."cheap, fast, reliable. Pick two"
or....."Speed costs $$$, how fast do you want to go?"
......Cant believe I quoted those.....  
Brian |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21520
Location: Oklahoma City
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:28 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
| slalombuggy wrote: |
| nextgen wrote: |
Totally agree with Ray.
T-4 two ton non aerodynamic buss are known to over heat but last twice as long as a T-1 pushing the same weight bus.
In a 1700 bug the T-4 Engines have a hard time reaching reaching running temp. when the air temp is below 60 f.
We are talking about the same engine that was in a 914 that weighed 300 lbs more then a bug and could do 127 hp.
No heavy math needed, just simple logic. The T-4 is hardly working pushing a bug. |
You are completely ignoring aerodynamics. A 914 is a much better shape than a Beetle, which begins to lift at the rear above 110mph and a Beetle is far superior to the 4x8 sheet of plywood front end that a bus pushes through the air. It's not just weight that comes into how hard a given engine works, how the vehicle flows through the air has much more to so with is than weight (on a flat surface)
Type 3's and Type 4s both benefitted from wind tunnel testing. and the T3 had a higher top speed than the Beetle with basically the same displacement engine. The T4 had a bus engine in a much smaller package therefor, doesn't have to work as hard so it doesn't generate the same heat
There are also great differences in the strength and durability between a stock T4 1700 and a T1 based 17776
My HP figures were only intended for discussion purposes. I don't know how much HP it takes to push a Beetle down the road at 85mph. But why have something all stressed out doing it, when for basically the same amount of money you can have a bit larger engine that doesn't have to work as hard?
brad |
No..I am not ignoring aerodynamics. While Nextgen is speaking of teh 914 specifically...I am talking about 411 and 412...2 door, fours and wagons. I have owned and driven all three in this manner.
Those cars have far more surface area drag than a beetle.
And yes...while the type 4 engine has some significant differences in strength and durability...those are about longevity. The differences that reduce heat in the engines....can be for the most part...duplicated in the beetle engine.
While the beetle upright cooling system puts out less CFM...but does so at a higher static pressure. The difference is in the type of fan. It is also better balanced cooling air flow wise from left to right cylinder banks than the type 4.
The type 4 heads have 40% better cooling fin area than a type 1. The cylinders are largely the same. You can buy better than stock type 1 heads with more cooling fins these days.
The type 4 had a factory oil filter. You can put an oil filter on the type 1 easily.
From there...just increase size to 1776, add an oil filter, better heads and cam than stock...even a slightly better exhaust...get rid of the single barrel carb and go to a good set of two barrels at worst...and maybe aftermarket EFI at best....and do the hoover mods while you are in there (type 4 had them from teh factory)....and you will have a comfortable easy 85hp with all day long drive-ability....and its a simpler build.
And...ideally...if you are going to go to something 2.0 or larger...you will need to replace/upgrade everything I listed...plus rods and a few more bits. Ideally with either build you might want to dial in your gearing as well.
For a slightly better than stock daily driver highway cruiser in a bug....that you want to cruise safely at 75mph all day...there is no need for anything more complex than a well built 1776.
However if you want to smoke the tires at lights, make noise and basically drive like you are in high school  ....nothing technically wrong with that...but nothing useful either....then by all means go up in cubic inches.
And....much as I prefer type 4 engines...I am not suggesting he build one.
Simply emulate some of the the improvement items from the type 4 to make your type 1 engine work better.
By the way...there are some calculators out there for estimating how much hp it takes to maintain highway speed....on level ground with no wind...but the last one I saw you need drag coefficient,tire rolling coefficient or an estimate and a few other bits and pieces....but numbers from way back when in articles I have read suggest that on a beetle it takes about 25% of max power to maintain a set speed.
However there will be a "stack up" point with aerodynamics...different with every car shape.... where the wind resistance reaches a point where further speed increases actually increase drag and work.
For example on my 2012 Golf....its right about 83mph. On my 412 two door its about 77mph. I have driven both of these vehicles extremely high miles.
You can watch the fuel mileage drop when you cruise at speeds higher than this. This did not mean my 412 ran hotter over 77 mph....just that aerodynamically it became less efficient.
The top speed on a 412 is 97mph limited by the final drive gearing. Cruising at 77mph is 80% of that. Throttle position at 77 with no head wind was about 1/4. It averaged 31-32 mpg at sustained 77 mph.
But...going to 80mph sustained cruise...about 89%...it dropped mileage to about 28-29 mpg.
Ray |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
mikedjames
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2012
Posts: 2745
Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 10:32 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Either build a big lazy engine for $$$$$$$
Or build a stock 1600 and fit full flow oil cooler. Choke it off with a 34PICT-3 and a stock muffler. You need something to hold you back , your mind is not enough.
. It will let you drive it as hard as you like all day, and you almost cannot blow it up as will not let you develop enough power to overheat it.
And spend $100 on a temperature gauge or smell the smoke from the hot oil earlier.
Sort of what I did with a 1641DP on my bus.
_________________
Ancient vehicles and vessels
1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.
1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
[email protected]
Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2002
Posts: 4394
Location: Brew City
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 11:08 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
| Bob Brugge wrote: |
I want to know if a 1776 will survive @ 80 - 85 mph for sustained periods. I recently completed a 1679 cc dp upgrade from a 1641 sp. Upgrades include ratio rockers 1.25:1 Dual chinese weber knock offs, a 4 into 1 header with a quiet pack muffler.
When I blew the car up 10 days after I bought it and turned it into a 1641 I put a hi volume oil pump. I want to think it is a 30mm, but it could be anything.
I ran the crap out of my car over a 35 or so mile trip after putting around in the mountains for a few hours. By the time I got it home I had bright red oil pressure light at anything less than maybe 1200 rpm. When I got home I checked to see how hot the dip stick was and I couldn't touch it. So clearly I over drove the engine. I have had it up to 95 or so for just a brief blast so I know I can run this little engine that could right up to the point where it becomes a boat anchor.
I want to build a 1776 next, dp of course but maybe sp. Not sure if I should stay with stock cam and ratio rockers or not. Keeping the dual carbs even if I do go sp.
I don't care so much about torque and horse power numbers as much as I care about how hard I can flog it. Would a 1776 with a cw crank, balance job, etc be capable of 80 or 85 all day long with out melting? With my carbs I have to keep my cc's down to 1800cc or less. What do we think? |
The 1776 project streetwise combo that I've been selling for 20+ years routinely can run for 70,000-100,000+ miles with no extra cooling added. Counterweighted crank, lite FW(in a beetle), hydraulic lifters, filter pump, MOFOCO 042's, single two barrel or dual carbs. In fact, if you check out the cover of Issue #9 of the new VolksAmerica magazine, the guy on the cover ran that engine back and forth cross country in a bus for over 100,000 miles, without ever taking it apart. He then transplanted it(again with no disassembly) into a baja he built. Not saying that my way is the only way, just a way that I know works.
_________________
Please "LIKE" us on facebook to see what we are working on.
https://www.facebook.com/mofoco?ref=ts&fref=ts
www.mofoco.com
Cylinder Head Reference Sheet |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bob Brugge
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2015
Posts: 721
Location: Missoula, MT
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 11:36 am Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
Thanks for all the responses. I am torn between sp and dp because the car had a sp originally and I still have the heads.
Yes speed costs money, not trying to build a race car. I am largely undecided on everything except the carbs and the max displacement. I have the carbs, they can only handle so much. Ultimately I am a cheap bastard and don't want to have to put out a cent I don't have to. I know a well balanced engine will run circles around the same engine slapped together. So I am trying to figure out how to use what I have and figure out what I need. I saw cam mentioned more than once, what cam tho? John @ ac.net gave me a recommendation based off of his 1800cc build, which might work out ok.
Ultimately I need, for big parts, a cw crank, the jugs and machine work to make them fit. A cam is $100 ish. I am hoping for a build of less than 1k. Not sure if that is realistic or not. Heads are probably out of the question unless they start giving them away. Or I can find a used set cheap. I understand about aerodynamics being a limiting factor in everything, I used to drive long haul and over about 65 and your mileage goes to hell. More than anything I want the speed out of it, with out it melting.
I will take cheap and reliable and see what the extra displacement does for me.
I have an extra case, I have one set of freshly rebuilt heads that are already opened up, and a decent ish exhaust. Everything I have read says that if you need an extra oil cooler something is wrong, or you are racing.
I have read the article on Hoover mods a couple of times, or tried to. Too much technical shit and idk what any of it means. Can some one please explain them in plain english?
_________________
Keep on Dubbin'! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
vwracerdave
Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15309
Location: Deep in the 405
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
You are never going to get what you want by being a cheap bastard (your words). There is no magical wand we can wave over your stock S/P heads to get the engine power you are dreaming about. Sell them and all the parts you don't need. You must understand your limits and live within them. It takes $1000 to build a stock 1600 engine. A 1776 for under $1K ain't gonna happen.
Exactly which carbs do you have?
Why do you need to drive 85 MPH?
If you want cheap and reliable than 70 MPH may be your limit.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Pruneman99
Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2012
Posts: 5013
Location: Oceanside
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2018 1:16 pm Post subject: Re: 100 mph hunk of melted everything |
|
|
There was a guy on here from NorCal that took a stock SP 1600 added a turbo, and flogged that sucker for years. I'm not saying that's the best way, but it worked for him. I think he was originally just trying to drive it to destruction, but it just kept going..
It was a fun thread. I'll see if I can find it. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
