1955 USA Deluxe Beetle Ragtop (three fold) restoration plan

[motofly196]

What are your goals for driving? Main highways, side roads? Like Jake said in his post, a stock 36hp will do just fine for both. Even better, less to mess with while getting your car dialed back in.

Okrasa engines aren't built overnight. Even though most parts are off the shelf today, they require a TON of work to make right. And a lot of time will be spent waiting to get those parts out of machine shop jail. With a stock 36hp in your car, you can enjoy it while waiting for your Okrasa to be built. If I had the budget, I would have an engine completed by a respected shop.

Transmission. I would just clean up what you have and use fresh oil, boots, and output shaft seal. Drive a few hundred miles, and change the oil again in the trans.

I don't post any pictures of my 55 because it is an absolute pile of shit. And it's pink. You are SO far ahead of the game with your car.

[55rover]

Thanks for the comments and questions.

Given:
- Current trans-axle not original and questionable condition (later tunnel)
- Current engine not original (1959 case)
- Body is staying "OG"
- Pan will be a full restoration will only bolt on modifications (brakes, master cylinder, 12 v, seatbelts)
- Oklahoma highways are 75 mph which means 85 and are normally not congested
- I live off a highway
- I have two boys of driving age

Goals
- Safe highway drive-able car at highway speeds
- Leave the car as original as possible (period, "vintage speed, or bolt on improvements)
- Transaxle needs to be able to handle say 100 hp (later swing axle) and I want to make one (right) decision
- Transaxle needs to be able to handle both 180 and 200cm flywheel engines
- Easily handle a cross country drive (nothing is close in Oklahoma)

Decisions:
- Plan is for a Joe Ruiz built 36 "Okrasa" stroker
- FOMOCO transmissions seems to be a top end choice. Need to choose gear ratios correctly (still trying to figure that out)
- Front disks (still looking at options)
- New headliner and ragtop
- Some improvement in the finish, deck lid and fenders are candidates
- Pan will be blasted and POR15'ed
- Some bolt on handling improvements (thank you aircooled.net)

End result is a fun cruiser that has a Vintage Speed look with an original condition finish.

Current Status: Pan a blaster's

[motofly196]

Benco Transaxle in Corona CA, and Rancho Transaxle are my only go-to these days. Tell them what you want to do, and they will take all the guesswork out of it for you.
Traveling at highway speeds (75-85 mph you said) just isn't going to be feasible. Plus it isn't really that fun. Bugs twitch all over the road with gusts of wind, ruts in the pavement, and passing tractor/ trailers. When all three happen at the same time it'll leave a mark in your shorts! 60-65 mph is a pretty attainable goal. Plus, you'll want to get out and stretch, check oil, eat. It just takes longer to get where you're going, but it's worth it.

[*Darren]

[55rover]

Rust review

Photos of underside of body. Left rear quarter panel has a rusted out section. Other areas seem to be fairly solid with surface rust. Quarter panel rust is all the way through the bottom and side.

Questions:

- Not sure what to do with this, it is barely visible from outside. Rust mitigation/weld?
- Underside has expected original finish rust Mitigation or leave as is?

[janerick3]

The rear quarter rot is the same as cab mount failure on pickups. Virtanen sells the replacement pieces that have to be welded in. Since you have the body off, do it now.

The rest you can leave as is, with the possible exception of the tray next to the brake fluid reservoir. That will clean up well with a phosphoric acid scrub, conversion coating, and high-build primer. Be sure to mask off any areas where you don't want overspray. For the left front corner of the bulkhead, you can leave it alone or patch it. My '54 has similar rust and as long you don't drive it on salty roads, it should be OK for years.
_________________
Thanks,
Jan K.

[55rover]

Great referral! I did not know about this company.

[55rover]

Engine inspection

Interrupted restoration in the mid 1990's consisted of disassembly and start to rebuild the components. The engine (1959 case) that came out of it was running but smoking badly. Rebuilt the engine and accessories with stock parts and put it on an engine stand and basically left it without tin for 25 years. Externally, the case has some spotted dis-coloring that I can't really identify. I have to figure out how to clean that up. The main question is the engine internals. What state are they in after a quarter of a century in storage? Photos of bore-scope inspection (really cheap nowdays). Pretty satisfied with the condition, internals look fine. Prelub on cam is still intact. This will be my stock engine.

Internal cylinder/pistons and cam lobe photos

[*Darren]

External. That's corrosion. Unsightly, but not a big deal. Internal, fully rotates I assume. You could just prime it - oil down cylinders,a try to start.

[55rover]

Thanks for the referral! Calling now.

[55rover]

Glass Review

All DURO-GLAS with the exception of rear vent wings which are Sekurit. Assuming all original. Other opinions?

[janerick3]

The Duro-Glas is all original; the Sekurits are late 1957 or newer.
_________________
Thanks,
Jan K.

[55rover]

Front Glass

VER
DELOG
BUND
AS1

[55rover]

This car has a windshield washer system that seems to be unusual. At first I thought it was an english aftermarket system that was crudely drilled in the dash and hood. After seeing some early photos of what I think is a starter button in the same location, I am starting to think that the hole where the washer button is a factory hole. Any opinions?

[EverettB]

The starter button was a 1953 / Zwitter Beetle thing
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[BulliBill]

That is NOT a factory hole in the dash. Someone drilled it to add the aftermarket window washer system.

I have this same car in my St. Louis, MO garage, a unrestored June of 1955 3-fold Sunroof Deluxe Beetle in Beige with her original perfect red interior, headliner and OG carpeting. Mine is bone stock, no accessories added (thankfully), in fact she never even had a radio installed by the first owner out in Stockton, CA. I am the second owner since 1993. Completely original numbers matching engine and transaxle too. Her name is "Martha" after the original owner.

You have a beauty there, and I suggest that you keep it as absolutely vintage stock stock as possible. Add to your list of transaxle rebuilders "the Wright Gearbox" out in Riverside, CA. Ricky Wright build a gorgeous split-case transaxle for my '57 Kabriolett about three years ago, and another split-case transaxle with reduction boxes for my '59 Double-Cab. Both are stunning in condition and appearance.

You are very lucky, your Oval is a Sunroof model and all there and in rather nice condition. Keep it stock neighbor!

Bill Bowman
_________________
I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[55rover]

[55rover]

Birth certificate, quite quick by the way. Wolfsburg must have worked out the "bugs" in the process. No surprises, basically a USA export 1955 Deluxe Bullet Ragtop model. The only item that give pause is "Destination: Germany". Maybe the buyer took ownership (U.S. armed service) in Germany and shipped it home?

[motofly196]

Strange that you dont have a day it was built or left the factory. They are so inconsistent. I mainly purchased my Birth Cert to verify the color of my 55 (Ultramaroon) but they left that blank. You got a lot more info than most. Score!

[55rover]

Data sheet on car. No surprises. Interesting they would list a trailer towing weight. 450kg (990lbs) Assuming a 15% tongue weight 68kg (150lbs). This would indicate that this 36hp car could gross out at 1,493kg (3,284lbs). I can't image what uphill driving would be like.

CG