Drum brakes, CV joints, rear axle bearings

[86VaNa60N]

Hello everyone, my 86 Vanagon 2WD was making a knocking noise in the rear driver side which I learned (from reading the forums) was a CV joint issue. With my van, I figure its good measure to replace things before they fail, especially considering the age and mileage 175K. With that said, I purchased all new CV joints, rear wheel bearing kit and larger Drum brake kit from GoWesty. After reading on the Forums, I'm wondering if I should hold off on changing the bearings since they are quiet and have no play. If its reasonable to simply replace them, I'm wondering what would be the best bearing grease to apply.
Thanks for your VW wisdom and thoughts, Noah.

[dobryan]

If the rear bearings are quiet then I’d read up on how to add grease using a needle attachment and keep you new set as a spare. New are not usually as long lived as the originals.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[Wasted youth]

It’s a fair amount of work to properly replace the rear wheel bearings. I have only done this work on a Baywindow bus, but echoe the sentiment that new bearings might not be as good quality as what’s in there... assuming you actually have OE bearings in there now.

Good on you for thinking proactively! Your noise could very well be just the C.V. joints. I was recently surprised to find how dry mine were with good boots intact. Like you, I had noise back there and checked it out. Good thing I did. I wound up doing all four in the parking lot at work. I was 230 miles from home

I used Valvoline high temp wheel bearing grease. There are likely more appropriate greases available.

[B.O.B.Wanders]

Read up on the rear wheel bearing job before going too far. You'll need a 46mm socket or tool for the axle nut and the ability to 1) get it off, and 2) torque it back on to 253 ft-lbs.

CV's on the other hand are pretty straight forward, just VERY messy. Lots of good instructions on this forum and others.

I used Red Line CV-2 grease and have had no issues. Lots of favorite grease, oil, fluid opinions out there.
_________________
83.5 WBX 2WD Assuan Brown Westy, B.O.B.

"It feels good to be lost in the right direction” - unknown

[86VaNa60N]

Thanks you guys, I'm thinking I'll just stick to the original bearing and save it for when it's really needing work. I will research the needle technique. I saw a post online how some were adding a bit of grease to the bearings, good idea. Thanks for the Grease tips too

[Abscate]

You may find just removing your CVs, cleaning them out with solvent, then repacking them with new moly Grease will give you another 50,000 miles of service - during which you will replace the grease again after 30,000 miles from today - just like the service manual says to do.
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.ssS!

[alpinweiss]

I do not wish to argue with the experts on the forum here, but the Bentley manual specifies torque on the 46mm rear axle nut to be 500 Nm (about 360 ft. lb.). This will normally require heavy duty removal.
_________________
Alpinweiß
1981 Vanagon
2008 Passat 6-speed manual
2017 Tiguan 4-Motion

[Sodo]

360 ft-lbs is a 180 lb mechanic standing on a 2 foot breaker bar.
180lbs x 2ft = 360 ft-lbs
The number 360 is doable.

Often there is corrosion that requires higher torque, or the previous mechanic over tightened or both, that makes it difficult. But reassembly just takes a hunk of meat and a bar.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[shagginwagon83]

I bought a 46mm socket from Oreilys or Advance for $20. I can't remember which one. Then bought a 3/4" breaker bar from Harbor Freight $20. Bought a 6' sch 40 pipe for $30.

Im glad I invested in all that. It's a breeze to take the axle nuts off. I had to leave van on the ground when breaking them off. If you plan on investing in larger rims you might have to install longer lug studs in rear.
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[86VaNa60N]

Hi guys, thanks for the tips on the axle nut. 350# is quite a bit. I do have a 46mm impact socket and my gun supposedly goes to 600#, but, I picked up this axle wrench that ties into a breaker bar just in case. Taking it off is one thing, fortunately my buddy has a torque wrench that goes to 350#. But, at this point, I'm thinking of just doing some needle grease in the existing bearings. I'm thinking I'll have to take off the bearing seals to do this. I do have new seals from the kit.

Cleaning and regressing the CV joints may fix the knocking noise and buy some more longevity. Maybe I'll do that first. I did get new boots. As far as the drum brake, I might as well put the bigger Drum brake on since its an upgrade.

I like talking to you guys, its making my project smaller and smaller

[Wildthings]

You don't need a torque wrench for this job, just figure out how far you have to stand out on a breaker bar and go that route, then you must tighten the nut (often much tighter) to get the cotter pin holes to align. It is not unusual for 600+ ft/lbs to be required to do this. Removal can require much more torque than this. A striking wrench of some sort will typically do the job though.

The way to deal with the wheel bearings is to pop the outer seal out whenever you rebuild the brakes and pump some new grease into the cavity with a grease needle. If you are ever doing brake work and CV work at the same time, then use the opportunity to do the inner seals.

[mellowslow]

Hi 86,

I recently did a rear wheel bearing job on my '87. The bearing was loud as fark and wobbly with play.



A 36" long 3/4" drive breaker bar was required to remove the axle nut.

The rear inner bearing was destroyed during removal from the housing. I saw no other way to remove it.

I would not attempt this job without a press.

A 3/4" torque wrench from Summit Racing was used to set the torque on the axle nut. There were no 1/2" drive torque wrenches that rated above 350 ft lbs. No local auto shops were able to rent me a 3/4" torque wrench.

It took a great deal MORE torque to tighten the axle nut the additional amount needed to insert the cotter pin. Like put a 6 foot long 2" diameter pipe on my 36" long 3/4 drive breaker bar and feel it flex kind of thing.

Other people seem to have good results using primitive tools. I simply can not understand how someone weighing 180 lbs and standing on a 2 foot breaker bar can produce the required amount of torque. Nor can I visualize how a needle can be used to adequately grease the rear inner wheel bearing.

I am running Swepco 105 in the bearings, probably a bit overspec.
The Red Grease is good and works for a lot of people. In my use, I have seen the red grease turn pink from water exposure.
_________________
'87 WBWE FAS Gen V

[dobryan]

[Pcforno]

As DobRyan said - that exactly how I do mine. Incidentally you can get a 3/4 inch drive ratchet that’s 2 feet long as well as a 3/4 drive socket set from harbor freight for less than 75 dollars combined. The large sockets and ratchets have got me out of many binds without resorting to medieval tactics

[shagginwagon83]

Whatever you do - don't try to save $20 on a 3/4" torque wrench by using a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter. Don't ask me how I know...dad isn't always right
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[mellowslow]

[86VaNa60N]

Thanks everyone for all your advice. I'm starting to think maybe I'll pull the OEM bearings to repack. I'm gonna start another question on how to do that without damaging the bearings.

[dobryan]

I’d not pull them. Just add grease. AFAIK you cannot pull without damage.

BTW torque wrenches have their uses but for this axle nut it is not needed. When the manual says to torque to X and then continue until you insert a cotter pin the value does not need to be that precise.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[shagginwagon83]

I didn't pull my rear bearings either on my 83.5 with 125k miles.
_________________
Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[86VaNa60N]

Good to know, maybe I can't pull the bearings without damaging them. So, doing the needle grease gun technique and putting new seals on is the best option.