seized 1600- HELP

[Chickensoup]

so im rebuilding a 1600 dp and i have stripped it down to a long block. HOWEVER, it was rained on for about a week when it was in my hands and god knows what kind of life it had before. I really need help freeing this engine but i don't want to damage my crank(if it is not already damaged). THE BIGGEST issue is that the heads are stuck to the cylinder. HOW IS THIS EVEN POSSIBLE, I DON'T KNOW. The studs are all loose. i have sprayed LOTS of pb blaster down the spark plug holes and i have heated the heck out of the cylinder walls. (just FYI the inside look like black sludge from what i can see.)

can i drill through the walls? i have a press, any ideas? thanks

[Zundfolge1432]

Try not to break anything all to easy too bust fins.

[mukluk]

Make sure you have all the head stud washers removed, they have a tendency to hang up on the stud threads and make removing the head very difficult.

If the heads are stuck fast to the cylinders, see if you can pull the entire head/cylinder assembly off the case and pistons. It might be easier then to remove the cylinders from the heads with them sitting on the bench.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[Chickensoup]

I have the thing on an engine stand but the heads won't even give me a nibble of play

[KTPhil]

I think I remember reading here about someone who made up a little jig out of angle iron, and used leverage to pry things apart using the exhaust studs on the heads. I'm not quite picturing the setup, but I think it involved bolting up two jigs to the front and rear studs so they could be pressed apart front and rear simultaneously. You have to be mighty careful, but it beats beating on it. Wish I could find that thread, there was a photo of his setup.

[Zundfolge1432]

Water and aluminum don’t mix well but who knows he may get lucky

[tonys1pr]

The author of the following thread made a tool for removing his stuck cylinder heads:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=391652

Hope it helps.

[scrivyscriv]

heads can be tight if the cylinders aren't squared up on them. Run your head nuts back down in the torque pattern, then take them back off. PB blaster stinks, get some Aero Kroil.. it works better and doesn't stink your garage and clothes up.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[Meiang]

The best way to remove a stuck cylinder head is to feed thick nylon rope into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole (put in a much rope as is possible) and rotate the crank. This uses the piston to push on the cylinder - works a treat. Unfortunately you say your motor is seized. But how siezed is it. If you put a socket on the crank pully bolt and using an extension bar can you get any movement.

[Chickensoup]

yes, i have used your idea many times in the past. Their is grime and grit the case. do you think that it will scratch the crank?

[Mark Evans]

Trans fluid and acetone, or diesel used liberally, let it sit for a time. Use a wood block or rubber mallet to start knocking on things.
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'63 Ragtop

[Meiang]

Unless there is mechanical damage to the crank bearing surfaces scratching the crank from grime and grit is unlikely. Your likely to have done more damage by leaving the engine out in the rain.

The question is can you rotate the engine as indicated. If you can just go for it. Putting a few marks in the crank is the least of your problems based upon the description of your engine.

[my59]

[Mark Evans]

Using straight acetone will give you a "dry" surface, causing more drag or friction. You also need some sort of lubricant in there with it.
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'63 Ragtop

[Erik G]

as for the rain... I once got as car with a backyard motor, must have had 2 gallons of water/oil sludge mix. the pushrods needed blown out, I know I chaged out the rockers (they were rusty) that motor with some 40 webers was great in my squareback, and lived in another car for a while too. I don't think you need to be too worried about the water, I did do lots of oil changes first hundred or so miles
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[Chickensoup]

GOOD NEWS!!! i have got one head along with the cylinder off. I used the but of a wooden mallet and stuck into the exhaust port. Then i banged on it for a very long time with a steel mallet. I worked from both exhaust ports over an over again. BUT... their is a huge hole in one of the pistons and half of the cylinder heads is eaten up bad. other than that it looks good. im going to have to get a new head for sure. PLEASE share this method.

[Chickensoup]

RIP

Yummy vw

[Chickensoup]

Also the connecting rods do look good

[Zundfolge1432]

Impossible to tell about rods, unless they are low mileage they’ll most probably need small end bushings. Big end can get out of round and they need to be checked for straightness on a jig. Hardly anybody wants to rebuild rods now, it’s cheaper to buy new AA brand. Hate to say it but they are nice and are close to balanced right out of the box. There are tricks and shortcuts to stripping that engine down, I’d get a copy of Tom Wilson’s book it has lots of pics and is easy to follow. Good luck we are pulling for you. with all that metal particles I’d count on getting a new oil cooler.

[mukluk]

Hmm... removing the head with the cylinders still attached. Why does that sound familiar?


Good job getting the one side off, looks like the typical dropped #3 exhaust valve has struck again.

Add another recommendation to replace the oil cooler due to the likelihood of metal bits in the oiling system from the piston shelling out.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"