seized 1600- HELP

[Chickensoup]

Ah yes, sorry. When I said that the rods looked good I meant that I couldn't see any cracked rods or spun bearings. Also will the 1300 oil coolers fit and work the same. They came from a single port. Thanks

[mukluk]

The oil cooler from a 1300 can be used if you're absolutely certain it's clean inside, just be sure to use the appropriate size and type of seals based on the size of the passages in the cooler and case. Coolers and cases up through '69 had 8mm passages, while '70 and newer used 10mm passages. Adapter seals are available if the case and cooler passage sizes don't match. If you're not absolutely certain the 1300 cooler is clean inside, it would be a wise choice to use a new cooler instead.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[Chickensoup]

Ok so I have now removed the other head that came off with the cylinders. Now I have split the case and somehow their is not a spec of rust on the cam or the crank shafts. Would you trust these shafts??? Also how do I remove the pistons from the heads. Thanks

[Chickensoup]

Also does it matter if I use two different numbers dual port heads? Thanks

[Danwvw]

Try soaking them in parts cleaner like Super Clean then a rubber hammer.


Yeah, it matters for part numbers but not for the mold numbers.

Example my heads here are a matched pair both being 113-101-375A part numbers, yet one has a VW 95 and the other has a VW 73 on it, that's ok.
Otherwise, they need to be machined the same and have the same cc's of the combustion chamber and the valves & springs need to be the same sizes.

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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Chickensoup]

yay. i have now got the case split. do you guys think that my crank is salvageable or do you think that i will ave to get it turned.

[Mark Evans]

You'll have to clean it up a bit more to tell.
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'63 Ragtop

[Zundfolge1432]

In fact you’d be wise to clean it well as you can. If you don’t have a parts washer get two or three lawn and leaf garbage bags, use these to line a cardboard box. Use diesel fuel or mineral spirits to clean and please wear gloves and eye protection. Also pay attention to fumes be in a well ventilated area maybe even outside.

Now you’ve got a crude soak tank also round up a few stiff bristle brushes and some scotch bright, 400 grit Emory cloth to lightly polished machined surfaces. You’ll need a good pair of snap ring pliers then the appropriate puller to get gears off crank. Back in the old days we didn’t have puller and used a large dull punch, 2 pound mallet and sacrificed the #3 bearing using brute force to remove gears, unless you’ve seen this done forget it. It takes muscle and knowing where to hit, go with the puller.

Save all those gears keys and spacers. I posted a how to build a crank thread a few weeks ago with pics this may help you. After it’s all clean I’d get a micrometer to check mains and rods. At this point you need to invest in a book by Tom Wilson called how to rebuild your VW engine. Plenty of pics it’s worth the money .source used from amazon or eBay. This is what clean looks like.

[Chickensoup]

Wow. Good advice. I have a harbor freight parts washer, will it rust the crank? Thanks

[Cusser]

[Danwvw]

Those white deposits on the gears and crank look like an oxide, the case and the cam gear may not be re-useable. You can get a new CW Crank for about $200 and it will cost about $100 to have that one ground. It may be pitted too bad to save. Also, they have to be checked that they are straight and the gears need to be removed and it needs to ring nice and clear and long when you tap it with a hammer or it's cracked or the passages are full of crud.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Zundfolge1432]

Well instead of taking a Debbie Downer approach to the way things look I’d clean it all up to see what you’ve got. Unless it ran out of oil and burned a rod bearing I’ll bet it’s good. The mic will tell.

Rust won’t be an issue if you use a petroleum based cleaner and avoid using any water based cleaners. The VW built its reputation on being tough as nails and easy to fix. Ringing a crank is a good shade tree method of checking but magnaflux is what professionals would use, but ask yourself this. How many cracked crankshafts have you ever seen? Is this a common problem? The answer is no. You really want to get things clean? Use oven cleaner and use eye and skin protection, the oven cleaner will take off everything including the baked on coke. At this point it will rust. So rather than be dissuaded by negativity keep going you ain’t done yet

[TDCTDI]

[TDCTDI]

[Zundfolge1432]

You’ll note that right after I wrote that it was deleted by me in less than five minutes, but since you want to talk about it I’m here. One more time, clean the parts and measure yes there will be parts that don’t measure up but some will and it’s quite possible he can salvage some. To bombard this person with what you “think” is counterproductive. The truth will be known if he can follow through. Now why not get busy and post up a how to with pics so as to help people. That would be nice

[Chickensoup]

so i was looking through my pictures and i noticed what seems to be a chunk missing from my crank. Should i retire my crank for good? i also have 2 other 1600 cranks. Are all 1600 cranks interchangeable?

[TDCTDI]

I don't see anything missing, the long section in the main journal is an oiling port that can be seen clearer on the crank in ZFs post. Just be careful removing the gears, I see where you damaged the oil slinger in one of your pics.
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Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[Zundfolge1432]

Look closely at the bagged crankshaft you’ll see the same chunks missing. The round ones were made to balance the crank while the smaller was made to hold the crank during manufacturing or machining. A closer picture of what you identify as chunk missing would be helpful, can’t tell from photo. Sometimes marks on crank are from some other catastrophic failure and are cosmetic in nature. All 1600 cranks are not the same however they are interchangeable. First you have the non cross drilled crank which ran until 1971 when it was superseded by the cross drilled crank the intent was better oiling although the earlier crank was actually stronger. I’m sorry if I’ve stepped on some toes I tried to delete the earlier post but someone was intent on making it visible, have you ever said something then later changed your mind about sharing it?

Look through the plastic at the marks on this crank they are there for a reason

These are the tools you’d need to further disassemble that crank the external snap ring pliers and the gear puller. No way around the pliers but you can use a press to get gears off. Only when everything is clean and mic’ ed can you make an assessment as to whether those parts are reusable. Don’t let these helpful people here discourage you worst case scenario you’ve got salvageable parts and extras such as nuts,bolts,washers,spacers,dist drive etc,etc.

[Chickensoup]

yes, i see what you mean by the drilled holes. to make it easier to see i have this photo.

thanks

[TDCTDI]

That's from the manufacturing/ balancing process as ZF said, look at the pics that he posted & they can be seen there as well.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.