Newbie 71 bay owner (turnkey vs floor up engine build)

[Centurion]

Hi there everyone
Latest question is :
Is it more ideal ( for a new guy) to buys a already built or rebuilt engine or build one from scratch
My current motor is doing well however was told sooner than later it will need a rebuild
In an effort to really learn and get dirty I thought why not just build one now on the side or do I buy a cheaper rebuilt engine. Maybe take it apart. Play with it and upgrade it
Can you send me in the right direction to find a place that Carla the individual parts Case/ heads/ pistons. Etc
Are there kits?
Is there a link/ site / or resources where I can read a list of all the parts needed for a rebuild
If I bought a basic 1600cc engine can I upgrade it to different horsepower etc and still fit it my 71 bus
I'm so new I don't know what will fit. My current engine is the stock 1600
Thank you all very much

[KentABQ]

I'm a relative newbie, too, and can give you some basic info. The more experienced Sambanistas will be along shortly with better guidance.

My three favorite resources:
---"How to Rebuild your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine", by Tom Wilson
---Bug Me Video #8 (I think). [Edit: Video #3 is for type 1 engines]
---All the fellow Sambanistas

Just be glad you have a type 1 engine. They are much easier to find parts than a type 4. Good luck!
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[Spike0180]

It depends on your time, confidence, and eagerness to learn (the hard way if need be). I would suggest looking into purchasing a long block and putting the feast together.

If I were looking to learn I would start with a cheapo junkyard engine and just take it apart and put it back together and have it run. Then I'd try to do with some new parts and advance from there.

As pointed out before: check out those reading resources.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[TomWesty]

My advice, assuming you have original engine tin, is to buy a long block and swap all of your subsystems from your original engine over to the new
long block. If you want to go bigger than stock, you have many choices to make and may want to go with a turnkey. Good original German tin is still the way to go on a turnkey if you can find a builder who will use it. With a ‘71, the port on the fan housing that blows air through the charcoal canister is important. Also, the vacuum port on the intake manifold that goes to your brake servo is important. Working thermostat and flaps are important for proper operating temperature of your engine. Do your research and ask lots of questions on here before you make a major engine purchase. Although some of us are grumpy old SOBs, we will try and steer you away from making some of the same mistakes we have already made.
_________________
If you haven't bled on them, you haven't worked on them.
Visit: www.tomcoryell.com and check out my music!

[visibleink]

[scrivyscriv]

A lot of engine builds by new vw owners don't go so well, and that's not a dig against anyone, it's just an observation from forum dialogue over the last several years. I rebuilt my own engine when I bought the bus.. it had a rod knock. I did have some VW experience, and a good mechanical background (career is in a/c maintenance). There is a learning curve and a tool acquisition curve but neither are insurmountable, they just take time and money, and a willingness to research.

A better place to start would be the Tom Wilson book KentPS mentioned.. then you can figure out for yourself why exactly you might or might not have a worn out engine. There are a few reasons for expecting a rebuild in the near future.. Maybe low oil pressure, ring or valve blowby, low cylinder compression, cracked heads or spark plug hole repairs.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[chittychittybangbang]

This is what I should have done when I first got a broken down old VW bus:

Buy a rebuilt engine from a reputable shop.

Meanwhile... as your driving around in your bus problem free (hopefully), you can then take your time learning how to rebuild your old engine the right way.
_________________
If your into busses youve got issues and you likely don´t know it yet. - El_Güero

The question of whether the resulting usage is "correct" or "incorrect" depends on one's notion of correctness.

[Centurion]

Thank you all very much
I just received the Wilson book three days ago so I'm reading it
I'm in Orange County California so there are a lot of Vw mechanics close by. I've taken the bus to two of them. Last one got into solid running shape. Repaired a major leak
He says I will need to rebuild sometime in the future but I'm the mean time enjoy driving locally
My desire for maybe buying another engine now is to tinker and research and upgrade a cheap engine while my bus is still running
So I like the suggestion of buying a rebuilt one or old engine that might. It be the. Best for cheap and start breaking it down and rebuilding
Thank you
I will also look into the videos. I think I need them

[Danwvw]

The nice thing about the 1971 VW bus is that it's a Dual Port engine that can be built to easily double the horsepower.
If you buy an engine to build for it make sure it's got the 3 point mounts on the rear of the engine case to fit with your mustache bar mount there on the back of the engine. 1971 AE and earlier cases need to have the cylinder stud inserts added by a machine shop. Also, have the shop add full flow oiling so you have an oil filter. Generally, Busses need a short stroke Either stock 69mm or a 74mm stroke is best as busses can break longer stroke crankshafts. Avoid Cast cranks for a bus too. Any Piston and Cylinder Bore over 88mm will require the case to be opened for larger cylinders. The 88mm slip in bottom thickwall cylinder 92mm at the head are as big as you can go without opening the case.
With the case opened for 92mm or 94mm you have more options for Pistons and Cylinders. For a Bus though 94mm cylinders are too thin. Some folks have the case and heads machined for 94's and run 92mm thickwall cylinders for dependability. If building your engine from an OEM 10mm stud case like the original 71 AE code case is, it would have better dependability if not opened. That's why I did the No machine 1800cc Type 1 engine build.
To release the horsepower potential of a VW Type 1 engine generally Dual carbs are used. However, now Fuel Injection is available and would be more trouble-free than IDF or DRLA carbs.
A nice bus engine for a 1971 bus would be a 92mm bore X 74mm stroke which gives you 1968cc's enough for keeping up with traffic on the interstate highways and it will hold it's own in 4th gear on the hills.

_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Colonel Mosby]

[Zed999]

There are also certain combinations of crank and piston pin height that are a little easier to build than others.

[scrivyscriv]

[TomWesty]