Kustom1wherehouse narrowed beam, steers like a dump truck! WHY?

[Mos6502]

Wheels, tires?

People do realize the scrub radius changes with tire height and wheel offset right? And the larger the scrub radius - the heavier the steering.

If you're using wheels with more backspacing than stock - that increases steering effort. If you're combining more backspacing with low profile tires (less height) that again increases steering effort. If the tires are wider than stock - again, steering effort is increased. Combine all three with new ball joints, and whatever else has been done to the front end, and you can end up with pretty unwieldy steering (on any car!).

Not saying that's problem here, but it's something I almost never see anybody consider.

[Keith]

[TDCTDI]

The second set of holes should almost be visible in the upper portion of the slot, they’re 90° from the ones where the stud is now. If they’re not there, the wrong collars were used and the adjuster teeth were welded in the wrong position. This angle would cause the front end to be oversprung & the balljoints would be binding because they were at their max angle.

Since you have confirmed that the adjusters do not have these second set of holes, then you should be able to return this beam as it is built incorrectly.

It sucks that you had to go through all of that, you should definitely contact the seller/builder of that beam to get a refund.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[fifthcenturycheese]

TDCTDI.

The adjuster studs are located in the only holes I could find in the collars, I rotated them almost all the way around. These are the only holes!

[TDCTDI]

The adjuster studs are located in the wrong holes.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[smitty24]

Ill PM you...don't want to trash this guy's thread with debates of what's correct, blaming companies, and anyone's lack of skills.

[Sharp64]

[smitty24]

Part of the problem is the way your beam is setup, I can see it...but as you said it’s done now. It’s too bad because the CB beams are usually pretty nice.

[fifthcenturycheese]

Smitty 24,

Here is a picture of the beam before going on car. Yes, I installed the steering box adjusted, centered and lubricated. Yes, there was one set of Empi caster shims. Tie rods were checked by alignment guy, looked good, but he said ALL the ball joints were stiff. i mentioned this to K1 and he said he would "hammer" on them to break them in. I am not a person that beats on new parts to make them function. I don't believe the engineers of those parts said...."just let the customers beat them into place until they function"! Like I said, I resolved the my issue and am much happier with the stock beam I rebuilt, functions just as I wanted! DONE and moving on.....!

[smitty24]

My bad, I just saw that you pulled the beam and put stock back on, and problem fixed. And you said you fought to get adjusters at half point. Sounds like adjusters welded wrong angle for one thing. Can you post a picture of the beam and adjuster blocks close up? Someone would surely buy it on here. All I use and install is stock or cb 2”. Perhaps it was an Empi 2” which sounds more like something K1 would do.

[smitty24]

Forgive me if it was previously mentioned. You said you had a new TRW box put on or you yourself put it on? I assume you made sure it was lubed and adjusted correctly as well? I’m asking because I don’t know if you paid K1 to do this or not. I have installed more puma cb beams than I can remember. Most have adjusters set around stock setting (highest available slotted height at adjuster) but some of them lately have been too low for my liking. These are even more temperamental with ball joints and really low with hd swaybars. I use the 3/4” swaybars and mild drop and I’ve had cars where it was just too firm and effected other things. Every car is different, some you have to slightly preload torsions and others you have to set dead even for best handling and ride. Anyhow, I’m not trying to fault ya, just thinking out loud. I placed 3 items with K1 over the years and had bad luck with them. It’s one place I just won’t deal with now.

Out of curiosity since this is a steering problem from what you’ve said, what are your front and rear alignment settings? I’m looking at amount of toe, camber in back, camber at front. Are you running caster shins? What shocks? When the beam was installed to the steering box and column shaft, was the pitman arm dead straight or angled? Are the tie rods straight or angled, up or down? We can figure this out.

[fifthcenturycheese]

Smitty24,

The narrowed beam is a puma style and I fought to get the adjusters at a half way point. That, along with the CB 2.5 dropped spindles had it to where the heavy duty sway bar was below the rim. Even the alignment guy who does all the VW's in the area said it was ridiculously hard to turn. Happy with what I built, not happy with what is supposed to be a ready to go professional built front end.

[smitty24]

How low are you setting the suspension? Most BJ cars I’ve setup or ridden in ride hard when set too low. They are awesome when not much lower than stock. My old 5” shockless beam that was 2” off the road with new ball joints was built by a local professional when I was young and didn’t trust myself doing it. Car rhode horrible and super tight. It simply wore out and got worse 2 months later. I put the long travel joints on all ball joint beams and don’t set them as low as I do link pin setups. A link pin front end will always ride better than a ball joint when you lower past a certain point.

[fifthcenturycheese]

This is a follow up on what I did to resolve the issue. I yanked the Kustom1wherehouse narrowed beam because it was UNSAFE and would not return to center when steering. I then purchased TRW ball joints, as some of you suggested were the current best choice and pressed them into the stock trailing arms...and reinstalled the stock beam. I used two Nakata tie rod ball joints with my CB 2.5 dropped spindles. I am not using disc brakes, so the width is just fine. I am very pleased with the stance of the car and the way it steers! Thanks for the input, Mike

[pwmcguire]

The builder admits the ball joints are stiff. Your not the first to have this problem. Its a known issue. Change out the ball joints. See, I deal with a local parts guy that repairs vw's with the parts he sells. he has Chinese and Brazilian ball joints, but they aren't stiff, how do I know? He uses them.

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

In reality.. if the drop is not extreme.. "lowered" ball joints are not required..
Its just common practice for most beam builders and suppliers to use them... Better to have more slot travel than binding..

My 67.. has stock original ball joints, torsion adjusters added to a stock beam (and lowered some) plus..drop spindles too..
It rides and handles better than stock..



.
_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
Search "VOLKSWAGNUT" on YouTube since you cant watch a "certain" BELT change video round here
Usually and often edited

[Busstom]

[TDCTDI]

[slalombuggy]

This is a long ongoing problem. Everyone's ball joints are shit, no matter if they are German, Chinese or American.

Your best bet is to install the ball joints clearanced for lowered beams.
The casings have a bigger slot in them and don't seem to pinch the spud as tight letting them move more freely.

Front end parts don't "wear in", they wear out.

brad

[TastyTuner]