My First Engine Removal (1973 SB)

[spectre1995]

I think it's an inevitability for Volkswagen owners that at some point in their lifetime, they'll have to remove the engine once or twice, or more!

I'm on my first attempt, meaning I have absolutely no experience doing this in the past, and am relying on YouTube videos and the Bentley manual to get the job done.

So how it goes is this; I sheared off the stud coming off the head for the J-Tubes (front of the engine), but it sheared off flush with the head (bummer!). So I tried to drill it out with a set of Harbor Freight drill bits (first mistake, but that's all I got at the moment), and broke one. Then, using a set of Harbor Freight EZ-Outs (second mistake), I broke one of those too! I made contact with a local EDM operator, who says he can help me out for around $35 if I bring him just the cylinder head.

So now comes the task of dropping the engine to get to the head. My setup is pretty straightforward, it'll be in my backyard (on asphalt) using a jack to get the rear end up in the air (3ft from the sump to the ground is what I've been told), and with the torsion brackets on safety stands, slowly lower the engine out from the bottom of the car.

Is there anything in particular I should be careful of, or watch out for, or any old-school tips and tricks that'll make this a ton easier? I'd appreciate any input I can get.

Thanks in advance!

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

This is a good thread which was dedicated to engine removal tips. Check it out.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=697529&highlight=engine+remov%2A

edit:

also see here for kames pics of removal. Good use of floor jacks and a 'motorcycle jack' to handle the engine.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8397848
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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[Tim Donahoe]

If you have a Haynes or Orange Bentley Manual, the directions there are very easy to follow.

On line, VW Resource probably has a good section on it.

Definitely use good jack stands, too.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[boundstaffpress]

The last time I dropped my engine I rented a transmission jack and drove my car up on some home built solid wood ramps. The transmission jack was supposed to provide a more stable resting place for the engine. I was glad to have another person with me to assist in bringing the engine down and out from under the car.
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Justin

Building a 73 Super Beetle with my kids.

[Cusser]

[Pruneman99]

I like to put the jack on a piece of carpet or thin plywood. Lower the engine then carefully walk it off the jack. Use the carpet or plywood to pull it out. You can take a tire off and go through a wheel well so you don't have to get the ass end up so high.

I've done it plenty of times by myself but a extra set of hands is great. Especially when it's time to get it back in there.

[Tim Donahoe]

One of the best tools I own is a VW engine dolly. Lower the engine down into it, jack up the car, then wheel out the engine. It works great for reinstalling, too.

I got mine for free from the previous owner, but they cost about fifty or sixty bucks from many VW vendors. I’ve also seen threads in this forum where owners have made them from wood and Harbor Freight castors.

Also, tape and label each wire you remove. Take pictures, too.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[bobinphx]

Here is how I do it....
1.pull off the rear tin
2. pull off all the wires
3. pull off all the cables
4. pull off the muffler or header. you can leave the heat exchangers on
5. lay out a piece of cardboard on the ground
6. put a peice of wood between the floor jack and the oil pan
7. adjust the floor jack up so it has the weight of the motor on it.
8. undo the 4 bolts that hold the motor
9. pull the motor back toward the rear of the car.
10. once the motor is free (watch the balance), lower the jack all the way down.
11. tip the motor to the left.
12. hold up the motor on the right side, pull the jack and then let the motor down easy on to the ground covered cardboard. It helps to have a friend pull the jack out.
13. pull the fan shroud, with the generator and fan still bolted to it.
14. pull the carb (stuff a rag in the opening)
15. jack of the left side of the car
16. pull the wheel
17. jack up the left side a bit more
18. wiggle the engine out from under the car on the left side by sliding the motor and the cardboard, the oil cooler (tallest thing on the motor now) glides by the left side of the body and out between the drum brake and the fender.

Done it this way a lot of times. No need to jack the entire car 3 ft in the air. I think its much safer this way. The key is the cardboard sliding and taking off the tire.

hardest part is balancing the motor on the jack and then holding up the right side of the motor to pull out the jack.

[Cusser]

Would be nice if someone near El Segundo volunteers to mentor you the first time.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[sawed off]

If needed while the engine is out, I would address any other problems like clutch, oil leaks, mounts, etc. If needed of course!

[bnam]

I built this simple dolly that fits over my HF low profile jack (love it). Have used it many times.

I prefer to remove the engine with the wheels on the ground and car/engine horizontal. I have the dolly lifter up by the jack under the engine. I then lower the engine.

Then lift up car. Remove left wheel and roll up the engine thru the wheel well. Don't have the raise the car as high.

While refitting - again I push the engine under the car, refit wheel, lower car and then raise the engine to push it on.
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1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[Cusser]

I've done about a hundred VW engine R&Rs, maybe 10-15 on my own two VWs in the 4 decades plus I've owned each, and back when I made $$$ working on the earlier models in the early to mid 1970s.

I had never used a "dolly" so I was too cheap to actually buy one to try. So I made my own:

My review: mine didn't actually help me, so did the most recent engine R&R (when I installed a rebuilt transmission, in April) without it, and did both all by myself.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Tim Donahoe]

Well, with my dolly, I just pull the engine back, and using a floor jack, lower it onto the dolly; then I jack up the car high enough, grab the two tailpipes and pull the motor out from under the raised car.

Once on the dolly, I can wheel it around on the garage floor, work on it as I like, then wheel it back under the car and reverse the steps above.

My dolly is open on one side for easy jack access. Basically, it’s like putting wheels on the bottom of your engine. Roll it here or there. It beats dragging it around and chaffing engine tins and fins.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Chris333]

Used a Harbor Freight dolly under mine. Jack up the car and push it under there:

[bobinphx]

I am not trying to start anything, but that picture is an accident waiting to happen.

You would not catch me near that for a million bucks. The wood is just waiting to topple over, sending the car down on you.

no jack stands, a couple of 2 x 4's for front wheel chocks. even if the "T" shaped wooden jack extender is screwed together, it looks like its off angle already and ready to spit out at you.

Just pull the shroud and the carb and you can use the jack without all that sketchy cobbled up wood.

additionally, I was taught to never jack a car up with the doors open. it has a tendency to throw the doors out of alignment.

Just my opinion.

[Chris333]

That is a 4x4 on the jack with a 2x4 laid on top of it. Door latches weren't installed yet.

[gt1953]

Not using any jack stands is just plain ignorant. I use jack stand and an added jack as well. Its all about safety. Go slow and have a couple of assistance as well. What has worked safely for me is a guy as the jack man, two guys on the engine and one guy ready to call nine one one. It is not that difficult but be safe.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Cusser]

[Volks Wagen]

[rastomas]

Ramps are best, for me. IN THE FRONT,
Then jack up the rear, so the car is LEVEL (or damn close.) Place the jackstands. This makes disengaging the engine from the tranny less problematic.
If you can't raise it high enough to clear the shroud, take off a rear wheel first, and the engine can be maneuvered thru the side without the wheel in the way.
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"It's not 'You are what you eat', it's 'You are what you don't SHIT". Wavy Gravy.


'74 Westy