What goes in these holes?

[Wildthings]

There are correct screws and there are correct screws. IMO the best screw has a hex washer head with a Philips X inside it, but since they are hard to find I use different heads in various location depending on access and what is behind them. In some places a hex washer head screws are a must in my opinion, while in other places I will mainly use Philips Cheesehead screws. The slotted screws are my least favorite. If you have to have your engine as per factory either slotted cheesehead screws or Philips cheesehead screws were used depending on the year of manufacture.

I do have a monster flat blade screw driver that is ideal for removing slotted screw.

I think your tin has been mutilated for some reason, though VW used all kinds of weird tins on these engines in various applications. Not sure I have ever seen a Zamboni tin but maybe that it is what you have and the gaps somehow fed heat to somewhere it was wanted, just a wild arse guess.

[ivwshane]

I think the tin was cut, the edge in the top right corner (looking at it from the front of the bus) doesn't feel like a factory edge.

I'll see if I can source another one.

Unless people have a source for the correct or best tin screws, I'll just keep using these.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[hazetguy]

original screws for a type 4 are DIN 7985 'phillips head' 'cross recessed pan head machine screws' (modern term), or fillister head screws. 6 x 12.
shown several times in the factory microfiche, part number N014 139 5
http://www.jerseylooker.com/FicheDump/LateBaywindow/011-00-1-026.jpg

they are easily sourced from a bolt/screw/hardware shop (not home depot/lowes/etc). a box of 100 cost me about $15. i also use 1/4" flat washers, to give more clamping surface area so you don't rip the openings in the tinwork.
while you might not think it's a big deal to use the type 1 (slotted) screws now, while the engine is out of the vehicle and you have good access all around the engine, when it's installed, and you might need to access a screw or three to adjust, replace, or tighten something, you'll find that a phillips head screw makes life a lot easier.

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thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[raygreenwood]

[hazetguy]

well Ray, this is in the BUS forum, and the engines are going in /or are in a BUS, so go figure.
i've worked on a lot of these where slotted screws were used and cursed the previous owners/installers. like you, me being a practical/functional type person, i'll stick with the 'cross recessed pan head machine screws' (sitting here referencing my print copy of metric/multistandard catalog from way back when).
and i'd be willing to bet you're gonna blow most people's minds by suggesting using a Schnorr washer. my guess is that less than 1% of the people here even know their product offerings (without googling it).
_________________
thebucket: I invested in hoodride, now DBD won't return my call?
hazetguy: invested?
thebucket: Yeah Haze, its where people put money into a company in hopes of a return on their money

[Wildthings]

My parts book for the early Type 4 engines unequivocally shows that the screws were slotted cheesehead screws, the Philips head screws came later, but I don't know the year for sure, knowing VW they could have been phased in. Even the parts drawing linked to above mentions some cheesehead screws along with fillister head screws. Pan head screws have shorter head heights than either cheesehead or fillister head screws and don't show in the drawing as far as I can tell.

I have no problem with a philips pan head screw and use them if need be, but they were not used by VW to the best of my knowledge.

[hazetguy]

[hazetguy]

[ivwshane]

Like I said, unless you guys have a good source for those screws, I'll stick with the slotted. Yes I prefer better over correct, in fact, I've spent probably $100 on hardware alone for better quality nuts and bolts for this refresh. I'm getting tired of all the researching I'm having to do to find bits and pieces here and there, mentally exhausted.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[hazetguy]

[ivwshane]

[raygreenwood]

[Wildthings]

I have a factory new 1800 sitting under wrap I will try to remember to take some pictures of the screws.

[ivwshane]

[Wildthings]

Here is a picture of the unrun factory engine and it has the philips cheese head screws. Don't know the date of manufacture, but it is supposed to be an 1800. I can attest to it having very shallow dishes in the pistons as per an 1800.

A trip to my local hardware store showed that they had what they where describing as Cheese/Pan head screws and just Pan head screws. The Cheese/Pan head screws were very similar to what VW used while the Pan head screws had significantly smaller but similarly shaped heads.

[ivwshane]

[ivwshane]

I'll answer my own question: my fuel rail is correct for a 77 but on later years they upgraded to metal lines.

Do you guys think this is a good (safe) upgrade to go with the later fuel rail setup? It looks like I would need a new drivers side fuel rail and left and right rear hardlines as well.


Thank you bustedbus for helping me out!!
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[SGKent]

I'll see if I can find a better photo of the left one

http://kentcomputer.com/77VW/engine3.jpg
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[ivwshane]

[SGKent]