Horn was working, now its not... Thoughts?

[miller9091]

Hello,

I have a 1979 VW Bus FI Engine and the horn has been working fine, until one day it wasn't. I jiggled the wires and had some press the horn in hopes something was loose but no go. I looked underneath and followed the wires behind the steering wheel and didn't notice anything. However I noticed the two wires that connect to the horn itself looked rough and one may be possibly damaged.... I had it towed a few weeks ago and was wondering if when the driver loaded it on the flat bed if one of the chains bumped the horn.. or maybe it just finally gave way. What you think? Pics below.

[advCo]

Well, I would first start by confirming that the horn actually works. You can use a 12v battery to test it.

If the horn does work, then I'd continue on to clean the corrosion off all the connectors. Make sure there is no cracks or breaks in the insulation allowing bare wire to ground to steel.
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[miller9091]

Do you mean use a 12 volt battery and jumper cables (or something similar) to pass current at the connecter points on the horn to see if the sound is produced?

[SGKent]

yes
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[busdaddy]

Yes, disconnect the wires on it now first though.
Or probe the black wire on it with a test light or v/ohm meter, 12 v when the key is on? Brown wire grounds when button pushed?
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[ChrisFred]

If that doesn't work, check your fuse.

[miller9091]

Got it! I’ll try tomorrow, any idea what fuse I should check?

[SGKent]

[miller9091]

Found it!

[WildIdea]

I had my horn working and then it stopped. I reachd down and pulled up on the plastic steering column housing just below the wheel and bingo it worked again. It seems to have migrated down the shaft some as my securing bolt must have lost its pinch. The gap needs to be set right between the housing and the wheel, or the connections won’t touch. I’m not sure if my bolt is original, my manuals don’t show that piece clear enough but I’m looking for something that might give me a bit more toque than a flat head screwdriver.

[busdaddy]

Replace that with a hex drive socket head bolt and be done with it.
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[Abscate]

...and take that ring to a jeweler who will mandrel it and up it one half ring size. If you catch that finger in a door or with a tool, you will have to cut it off.

Nearly happened to me about 10 years ago.
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[WildIdea]

[WildIdea]

[miller9091]

Only had a short time but I checked the fuse with a multimeter. Set it to 200 Ohms touched negative and positive needles together and got 00.3, I pulled fuse number 12, tested and received the same number, which I believe means its good?

[miller9091]

Update:

Okay, the fuse is good, terminals have been cleaned and I used a 12 volt car battery with some jumpers cables to test the horn, which works : )
I checked the wires underneath the van and everything seem intact, no cracked wire or bare metal.

Hopefully tomorrow I can check the wiring on the interior, check out the plastic housing below the steering wheel and remove the horn/button to ensure proper connection when being pressed.

Thanks for the help everyone, any more suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[miller9091]

Link to test.

https://youtu.be/FGveUu5pU_E

[Abscate]

I’ve been pounding the soapbox about the diagnostic approach vs symptom so in that spirit here it is..

1. Evaluate wiring and look for stock implementation. Examine correct fuse by visual, removing, cleaning ends, testing continuity.

2 key on, look for power at fuse on 12 Volt scale, leave key on

3 roll under, peel back rubber covers, check for 12 volt at horn + connection

4 remove lead from voltmeter, and create new ground from - to ground to test horn...if no hotn, component failure

5 evaluate ground path of wire, horn button, ground ring

Elapsed time?
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